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Toggle Switch Adhesive?


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When I purchased my DF from GC, the toggle switch top appeared to be broken, although it functioned normally. They sent me home with the guitar to play while they obtained a replacement guitar from a nearby GC (nice folks!). When I got home I found the black toggle tip amongst the packing materials; a close inspection of the brass stub showed no sign of damage. I installed the tip with a few light taps of a small, soft hammer. It looked and functioned perfectly until last night when a rather exuberant press of the toggle caused the tip to pop off. I reinstalled the tip, which is very tight BTW, and all seems well. Is there some adhesive I should use, that won't flow into the switch itself, to ensure this doesn't happen again?


Other than this one issue, the guitar looks, plays, and sounds beautiful and the setup, for me, is perfect; I've already called GC and told them I'm keeping it. I love it!




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Did you just buy it, Really? Number 355? That's funny how random the serial numbers are that people have been posting don't you think? And I was just thinking I originally believed that they were only making 2000 of these until I read several threads and websites indicating that they where making 4000 total, 2000 to North America and 2000 for everyone else.


I wonder then if the serial numbers will be DF 0001 - DF 4000 or if they're issuing serial numbers DF 0001 - DF 2000 here and the same with for overseas (someway to distinguish between the two). It appears as if people have purchased Dark Fires from here to Japan between around DF 200 or so to about DF 1700. No one thus far reporting matching numbers so I'd assume they're numbering them through 4000. But, then I wonder how many have they already produced and released? And how many more of the limited run are left to produce and ship to us eager but patiently waiting souls? Do you think they still have an entire half of these beauties to make?


Wow, my thought turned into a long post. Sorry about that folks!


phoyonutalan1, most Gibson toggle switch plastic caps screw on and are threaded. Is this not the case with your Dark Fire? I know they reinvented the toggle switch for the Dark Fire, incorporating the piezo blend into it, but I'd imagine that the top of the post remained threaded and that the toggle cap screws on to it still....


I would not recommend using glue.




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Yes, I bought this on January 13; there were 2 others in stock at GC in the Los Angeles area, one was in the mid-100 range and the other 1000 plus. Interesting...


Back to the toggle, there is no indication that the brass was ever threaded, and nothing was broken off in the black plastic tip; it appears to be just a tight press fit.


Thanks for the prompt reply!

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Photo, remove your toggle switch knob, and use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to carefully pry open the gap between the center post of the toggle switch itself. Notice both the switch and the plastic knob are knurled (or grooved). Test fit the knob and make adjustments as neccessary to the switch posts until you have a good fit.


As far as glue or adhesive, I made the above adjustments after straightening my bent toggle switch posts and my knob has not come off since I resinstalled it the last time and without the use of an adhesive. The prying apart of the center posts actually hold the knob in place.


Before you reinstall the knob the last time tho, find the center point of your piezo adjestment on the toggle switch and make sure to place the white line on the knob to this center point as you reinstall the knob, especially if you choose to use the adhesive silicone.


If you want to put a very small amount of clear silicone RTV Adhesive inside the tip of the knob, use a cotton swab with the small amount of silicone on it and place it in the inside at the far end of the knob (first remove most of the cotton from the swab to make it easier for you). The silcone remains flexible enough for removing the knob if you need to at a later time. I don't suggest using alot of silicone adhesive or an adhesive that dries hard or is a permanent type of adhesive.


That should help ya out. =D>

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MLB : do you believe it could be dangerous for the warranty ?


Hi Zed. I doubt seriously that doing this small preocedure would void a warranty, but, that's only my opinion. Especially, if you're careful when you work on the guitar because a very important part is not causing any additional damage to the guitar, because that may not be covered by the warranty.


But again, this is such a simple correction to the toggle switch stem and knob that, in my opinion, it really does not need to be sent back via RMA. As always tho, if you're unfamiliar and are not good working with tools, it's best to leave these tweaks to the Gibson professionals. :)

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Thank you all for your positive suggestions and help! Here is what I received directly from Tronical:


Hello photonutalan1,


the tip (knob) normally is press fit to the brass stub of the toggle.

If somehow it popped of, it may have lost its tightness to the shaft.

If this happens again, try to applicate a VERY SMALL DROP of super glue inside the knob and replace it on the shaft.



Best Regards



You Play. We Tune

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Just a heads up


i have now played half a dozen live gigs with my Dark Fire, and at last night's gig, my PU Toggle SW Tip flew off.


Luckily during tear down I located this small black cap on a far corner of the stage - rather a miracle.


This PU Switch cap gets a real workout during a 4 hour gig. On a normal Les Paul, the PU Switch cap is threaded and screwed on tightly - over the years I've had very few problems with the old 70 year old Switchcraft design - but as we know the Tronical version is quite different!


To avoid future loss of the Dark Fire PU Switch cap , today I'm going to glue it on with silicon RTV adhesive, as this type adhesive bond will absorb shock and hopefully do the trick keeping the switch cap in place.

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