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rdmaster

best suggestion on fixing Tuning issue with G-force system

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Naaah. Really the guy should hang around, there's lots of fun stuff going on around here most of the time, he'd get the hang of it.

 

rct

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sometimes, some people need to just calm down...

 

 

 

there, I said it...

 

I agree with rct, no one needs to vacate (just relax a little bit)

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I'm not going to say you should leave the forum, OldFart. But if you stay you need to be a little less thin skinned when folks disagree with you. It's not that I don't understand. I'm an arrogant assho1e who doesn't like to be told I'm wrong too. But sometimes I'm wrong... Gotta eat crow on those days. [cursing]

 

 

Don't worry about it. Just lighten up a little and things will be cool. [thumbup]

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Guitar Center informed me that they were instructed by Gibson to remove the G-Force tuning system on my guitar so, I did purchase my guitar at a steal. However, I am insistent on purchasing the G-Force system and having it re-installed on my guitar. I am fond of the G-Force and have used it many times before. There are some on the bay, brand new. They are advertised as "Type A" G-Force systems, does anyone have any insight on this topic? Any pertinent information will be appreciated. My guitar is a 2015 Les Paul Special Double Cut-away, I Love this guitar and want a straight factory product.

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Guitar Center informed me that they were instructed by Gibson to remove the G-Force tuning system on my guitar so, I did purchase my guitar at a steal. However, I am insistent on purchasing the G-Force system and having it re-installed on my guitar. I am fond of the G-Force and have used it many times before. There are some on the bay, brand new. They are advertised as "Type A" G-Force systems, does anyone have any insight on this topic? Any pertinent information will be appreciated. My guitar is a 2015 Les Paul Special Double Cut-away, I Love this guitar and want a straight factory product.

 

Well maybe that was a knee-jerk reaction by Gibson, but it must have been a reluctant one too. Obviously they are still putting G-Force on the 2016 High Performance models.

2016 G-Force has been described as 'New Improved' & 'Next Generation', so I imagine that means there has been an upgrade (maybe just software?) of some sort.

 

I would guess that Type A means 2015 spec, but its just a surmise.

Lots of folk removed them so there should be plenty out there to be had (Not everyone was petty enough to destroy them on YouTube).

 

Before sourcing elsewhere, why not let Gibson know about how you want the G-Force? I imagine you bought new from GC so you will be registering your DC soon if you haven't already done so. Cant do any harm.

 

Enjoy that DC! I like 'em too.

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Well maybe that was a knee-jerk reaction by Gibson, but it must have been a reluctant one too. Obviously they are still putting G-Force on the 2016 High Performance models.

2016 G-Force has been described as 'New Improved' & 'Next Generation', so I imagine that means there has been an upgrade (maybe just software?) of some sort.

 

I would guess that Type A means 2015 spec, but its just a surmise.

Lots of folk removed them so there should be plenty out there to be had (Not everyone was petty enough to destroy them on YouTube).

 

Before sourcing elsewhere, why not let Gibson know about how you want the G-Force? I imagine you bought new from GC so you will be registering your DC soon if you haven't already done so. Cant do any harm.

 

Enjoy that DC! I like 'em too.

Thank you very much for your insight, I am definitely going to take action on your suggestions and contact Gibson to see what outcome that will produce. I do Love that guitar and was already going to contact Gibson to obtain the nickel nut to replace the brass one it is currently fitted with so, that's just another inquiry to add to the list. Thanks again!

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Type "A" refers to your tuner post spacing. You have to measure the spacing and compare to the templates on the Tronical Site. Most LPs are Type "A" but Original Robots are another Type. So don't buy without checking.

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Hi,

I had problems with the min e-tune on my LP Signature, but now it stays in tune just fine. Here is what I did:

A)Professional nut job - had my favourite luthier adjust the slots. No short cuts here, it has to be done on every new guitar.

B)Learn (and practice) on how to change strings - the system is very sensitive about how the strings are winded, use the updated instructions

C)Use the settings - after calibration, I have changed accuracy, interference and gain to make it work more accurate.

//Robert

 

Hi Robert,

 

Could you teach me please about How to change strings with new gauge?

 

Right now I have a Gibson Lpj with standard tuning and I want to tune it to Drop C (C G C F A D).

So I bought a new set of Dunlop strings of .11 - .52 gauge.

 

I´ve read the manual but I have the next questions:

 

1. Do I need to activate Gforce low tuning´s before changing the strings with the new gauge?

 

2. Do I need to change the old strings one by one? Example:

- First I should change the lower E and replace with the new string .52´s lower C?

- The next step would be to change the higher e string? and replace it with the new 0.11 d String?

- The next step would be to change the next lower string (A) and replace it with the new lower string (g)? and so on?

 

3. The manual says tune the guitar to standard pitch before calibration: Is that correct? because due to the gauge of the new strings, I think this procedure would break the strings?

 

Thanks for your support

 

Hernan

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Hi Robert,

 

Could you teach me please about How to change strings with new gauge?

 

Right now I have a Gibson Lpj with standard tuning and I want to tune it to Drop C (C G C F A D).

So I bought a new set of Dunlop strings of .11 - .52 gauge.

 

I´ve read the manual but I have the next questions:

 

1. Do I need to activate Gforce low tuning´s before changing the strings with the new gauge?

 

2. Do I need to change the old strings one by one? Example:

- First I should change the lower E and replace with the new string .52´s lower C?

- The next step would be to change the higher e string? and replace it with the new 0.11 d String?

- The next step would be to change the next lower string (A) and replace it with the new lower string (g)? and so on?

 

3. The manual says tune the guitar to standard pitch before calibration: Is that correct? because due to the gauge of the new strings, I think this procedure would break the strings?

 

Thanks for your support

 

Hernan

 

 

1. I dont see why you would need to. No harm in trying it out though.

 

2. Yes. I seem to recall the manual states this. I dont think it matters in what order you replace the strings. I do this sequentially, but your idea of starting out & working inwards sounds fine though.

 

3. Your LPJ should handle the heavier gauge just fine.

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I bought the sr traditional with normal 50s neck n no g force,,just sent it in to have the nut replaced,,al put a post up on Thursday when I get it back,,a week n I made grooves about half a mm deep in the brass,,my friends g force works great with a graphite nut,they lubricate themselves,,defo the nut that's the problem,,👍

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