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badbluesplayer

Mapleflame Mod for ES-335

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Thanks for the threads on replacing the threaded posts.

 

I had to do this some 30 years ago on a LP. The posts started to bend towards the neck. I got them straightened up with a pair of pliers; eventually I replaced them. However I just cut the same 1" long; but it did not seem to bottom out. In retrospect, I could have checked the depth into the body and install longer screws...oh well...didn't seem to make any difference then.

 

I realize that the ply may not be ideal and screwing more into the maple center might be better... you said it made a difference on an ES? msp_thumbup.gif

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Thanks for the threads on replacing the threaded posts.

 

I had to do this some 30 years ago on a LP. The posts started to bend towards the neck. I got them straightened up with a pair of pliers; eventually I replaced them. However I just cut the same 1" long; but it did not seem to bottom out. In retrospect, I could have checked the depth into the body and install longer screws...oh well...didn't seem to make any difference then.

 

I realize that the ply may not be ideal and screwing more into the maple center might be better... you said it made a difference on an ES? msp_thumbup.gif

 

It makes a difference on the ES guitars. The wings of the guitar resonate more. But it seems like it changes the voice of the guitar very slightly so it's not quite so "hollow" sounding.

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I figured I'd bump this thread about the Mapleflame mod.  The bridge posts on ES guitars are not anchored into the wood very far, usually about 1/2".   You can install longer bridge posts that extend into the maple center block.  It's a matter of taking out the old posts, drilling the  anchor holes out further and installing new longer posts. 

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Well finally an interesting new (old that I never saw before) thread in the ES section.  Now you've go me curious about how far the studs go into the centerblock of my L5 and my CS356.  They are both different wood and construction from a 335, but curious none the less.  I wouldn't want to change the tone of my L5 in any way - it is exactly what I wanted when I bought the guitar.

As to the 356 I might want it, if anything, to sound a little "more" hollow not less.  I had a 336 bought new and had it for about 15 years over which time it opened up quite a bit.  The new 356 is much "tighter" sounding, less resonant - so the replacement of the studs is probably not what I'm looking for, but next string change I will probably have to remove the bridge and unscrew one of those studs just to see how far down they go.😟

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