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moving bridge thumwheels by mistake


Guest Farnsbarns

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Guest Farnsbarns

Most of us will have had a situation where we've moved the bridge thumwheels by accident when restringing. I don't know why this has never occurred to me before but why not have 2 thumwheels on each post to act as a locking pair.

 

While it really isn't the end of the world I might bung 2 sets on and see how it goes.

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Guest Farnsbarns

Wouldn't that only work if the threaded shaft were fixed in place? I don't see how two thumb wheels on a freely turning shaft is going to lock

 

Good point. Only works on ABR1s.

 

Edit: although, a nut could be put on the bottom part of a Nashville post and tightened to the body for the same result.

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I use these, thin adhesive on one side cork pads that keep things from sliding. Use a hole punch in the center. My bridge happens to be two thicknesses, so I have two cork pads sticky side to each other, the cork doesn't bother the guitar at all. It's way better than setting the bridge height every weekend after string changes. My LP has the same pair on it now for like 15 years or so.

 

51TPK94HMYL._SX425_.jpg

 

rct

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...why not have 2 thumbwheels on each post to act as a locking pair?...

It has been done.

In fact I think I first saw it on some famous player's guitar and thought 'What a great idea!'.

Possibly even a Collector's Choice re-issue? (*)

 

My own approach was to remove the ABR-1 very carefully and to mark the 'forward' position on the top of the wheel with an arrow in fine-nib indelible pen.

 

Works every time.

So well, in fact, that I'm still using the original marks some eight years on.

 

Pip.

 

(*) EDIT : In Yas Iwanade's book "The Beauty of the 'Burst" there is an entry for the ex-Jeff Beck (probably) Standard which has the extra thumb-wheel set-up.

9 1864 (pp 90 & 91) for those with a copy.

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sounds like you found your own solution, as has rct..

 

but ya know, there are a few easier ways out..

 

The obvious method: change strings one at a time, unless you want to oil your fret board or do a thorough cleaning.

 

yea I know Farns,, you knew that...

 

if you're looking to condition the fret board, just leave the two E strings on, just de-tune them enough to take them out of the nut slots and let them rest to the edge of the neck on each side.

 

Keep them tight enough so that the down pressure from the two E stings will keep the bridge thumb wheels from moving,

 

the two Es are the last strings you will replace after you've conditioned the fret board and changed the inside four and tuned them tight enough to add pressure so those wheels can't move on their own.

 

do the last two (E) strings, tune to pitch, and it's "Freebird" all day long. :) for me, this works every time!

 

you can also use blue painters (masking) tape cover the thumb wheels and tape them to the body,, this stuff will not gunk up your finish or hardware (Can you get that stuff on your side of the pond?).

 

course, you can measure and note down the string height off the 12th fret. so ya have a starting point to go back to once you've restrung.

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