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Repairing finish on LPJ (2013)


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Posted

Hi all,

 

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

 

I bought a 2013 LPJ about a year ago and recently had a little accident where the guitar got a little chip on it (pics below). I was wondering if anyone knew if gibson or anywhere else sold the "rubbed vintage burst" varnish so that I could colour the exposed wood.

 

post-56933-097621000 1451431480_thumb.jpg

 

Although it is a very minor chip and purely cosmetic, if this is an option I would like to dab some varnish on it.

 

Thanks for your help!

Posted

I've got a few chips on my guitar. I wouldn't worry too much about it. I have not heard of gibson selling it. If it really bothers you, You could try to google if any companies sell touch up paint or try a sharpie.

Posted

Hi all,

 

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

 

I bought a 2013 LPJ about a year ago and recently had a little accident where the guitar got a little chip on it (pics below). I was wondering if anyone knew if gibson or anywhere else sold the "rubbed vintage burst" varnish so that I could colour the exposed wood.

 

post-56933-097621000 1451431480_thumb.jpg

 

Although it is a very minor chip and purely cosmetic, if this is an option I would like to dab some varnish on it.

 

Thanks for your help!

Those guitars have a nitro finish that is very thin and delicate, it's one of the reasons that model is so affordable. You might want to take steps to protect it. There are threads about it here. Some have used Tru-oil, coats of polish or even a nitro clear coat.

Posted

Here's how I would repair that chip:

 

 

Purchase a $4 tin of Kiwi Cordovan shoe polish.

 

Rub the shoe polish into the affected area with a rough terrycloth rag.

Allow it to dry.

 

Buff that off with a soft cloth, and then apply a light coat of carnauba car wax.

Allow it to dry.

 

Buff that off, and *bingo-bango* she'll look brand new!!

 

 

k2-_e37c534a-1ceb-476a-9587-69a65c05bac6.v1.jpg

Posted

Here's how I would repair that chip:

Purchase a $4 tin of Kiwi Cordovan shoe polish.

Rub the shoe polish into the affected area with a rough terrycloth rag.

Allow it to dry.

Buff that off with a soft cloth, and then apply a light coat of carnauba car wax.

Allow it to dry.

Buff that off, and *bingo-bango* she'll look brand new!!

 

Sparquelito's method will work.

Careful not to spread the wax too far. The waxed portion of the guitar top will look different than the unwaxed top. Otherwise, color the chip with the shoe polish, then wax the whole top with carnauba car wax.

 

I'd probably just get use to it.

Posted

Here's how I would repair that chip:

 

 

Purchase a $4 tin of Kiwi Cordovan shoe polish.

 

Rub the shoe polish into the affected area with a rough terrycloth rag.

Allow it to dry.

 

Buff that off with a soft cloth, and then apply a light coat of carnauba car wax.

Allow it to dry.

 

Buff that off, and *bingo-bango* she'll look brand new!!

 

 

k2-_e37c534a-1ceb-476a-9587-69a65c05bac6.v1.jpg

 

For years I've used the liquid cordovan to stain handguns/rifle woodstock using this method. It's a good solution; unfortunately, I can't find cordovan at the local stores anymore. msp_crying.gif

 

If you want, for small dings like this, you can fill it with superglue, razor scrape it flat, small block with fine grit sandpaper, and polish. It especially works well on neck dings.

Posted

For years I've used the liquid cordovan to stain handguns/rifle woodstock using this method. It's a good solution; unfortunately, I can't find cordovan at the local stores anymore. msp_crying.gif

 

If you want, for small dings like this, you can fill it with superglue, razor scrape it flat, small block with fine grit sandpaper, and polish. It especially works well on neck dings.

I wouldn't try this on one of those thin finishes, that method works better on the thicker, glossy finishes.

Posted

Hello!

 

The superglue trick works. The key is to polish it with MicroMesh pads until the repaired area matches the sheen of the guitar's finish.

 

In a couple of days, I will start experimenting with nail polishes. They are nitro-based lacquers as well, and come in all imaginable colors.

 

Cheers... Bence

Posted

A correct furniture colored crayon might do the trick on such a small area. They are easy to work with and the material can be removed easily if you don't like how it looks.

Posted

Here is what I did. I picked up a really nice 2014 lpj fireburst that had a couple of chips on the face and the corner edge where the arm rests. I went to the local art store and went to the pen and ink section. They had a carosel of artist markers and i matched the colors perfectly. I marked in the dings and then I took some dunlop65 carnuba wax and buffes everything. Not only did it recolor the area (there is a small crater, but the recolor makes it unnoticeable) and then I waxed and gave a serious hand buffing. Not only did it fix the problem, but the satin finish is now a really nice gloss finish. I actually couldnt believe how good it looked. Give it a shot-you wont believe the results.

 

Sorta an after note. I cant be sure,, but I think buffing the guitar is somehow protecting the finish. Before when my arm was sweating, the satin finish kinda....i guess soaked in the moisture. Buffing it seems to repel and a simple wipe off after rigorous playing seems to be the key. I'm hoping this will prevent friction color runoff..

Posted

Here is what I did. I picked up a really nice 2014 lpj fireburst that had a couple of chips on the face and the corner edge where the arm rests. I went to the local art store and went to the pen and ink section. They had a carosel of artist markers and i matched the colors perfectly. I marked in the dings and then I took some dunlop65 carnuba wax and buffes everything. Not only did it recolor the area (there is a small crater, but the recolor makes it unnoticeable) and then I waxed and gave a serious hand buffing. Not only did it fix the problem, but the satin finish is now a really nice gloss finish. I actually couldnt believe how good it looked. Give it a shot-you wont believe the results.

 

Sorta an after note. I cant be sure,, but I think buffing the guitar is somehow protecting the finish. Before when my arm was sweating, the satin finish kinda....i guess soaked in the moisture. Buffing it seems to repel and a simple wipe off after rigorous playing seems to be the key. I'm hoping this will prevent friction color runoff..

 

 

The thin layer of wax is protecting the surface your guitar acting as a barrier to sweat etc, the wax will eventually need to be re applied to continue this protection as friction will wear the wax off as well.

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