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2014 Gibson ES 335 Satin


RockyA

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Bought a brand new 2014 ES 335 Satin on 15 Jan 2016 from GC. The action was pretty high, so when I got it home I adjusted the action to the normal Gibson spec of 5/64 and 3/64 at 12th fret. That is also what the pre pack checklist had also from factory. I have had Gibsons since 1963, Les Pauls, and ES 335, J-45 etc. I'm wondering has anyone else experience the high E bridge stud sticking up 1/32 above the bridge hole. I have cut my hand on it while muting with the heel of hand. I took it back to Guitar Center and they submitted a warranty claim on 18 Feb 2016. I had submitted the pictures to Gibson via email showing the problem on 27 Jan 2016 to vwynne@gibson.com and heard nothing. It's been two weeks now and GC status is Gibson wanted more pictures. Here is what it looks like and the guitar is set up at factory spec action. Wondering if they just cut the screw post off.

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That is an ABR bridge, and the post should be directly screwed into the guitar...no bushings.

 

It's an easy fix, if it needs to be fixed at all, but in doing so, the danger is damaging the guitar by messing up the hole in the wood where it goes in. Really, it just screws in.

 

My feeling is, Gibson WOULD be cautious, because if one looking at it can't fix it there on the spot, chances are they don't know what they are doing, and that's the biggest risk to the guitar.

 

The way I see it, you have options:

 

1) live with it. It isn't something that looks like it will fail or is bad for the health of the guitar. This guitar will last for MANY years, and it could be "fixed" at any time from now, 20 years later, or never, and it will still be a good guitar.

 

2) Take it to an experienced luthier, set up guy, or local Gibson certified repair guy. Advantages there are great, as if something needs fixed, it gets fixed quickly. If anything else you have needs fixed, you know a good place to go. And likely, are better at set-ups, which is a huge advantage even if you know how to set up your own guitar.

 

3) Go the GC route, or direction of having the place you bought it from either fix it or make sure it gets fixed under warranty. Advantage is you are doing business with the people you paid and holding them accountable. Disadvantage is it may take a long, long time. Mainly, GC sells a lot of guitars, they don't always have "qualified" people setting up/working on guitars (as in, don't know what they are doing), and Gibson can take a long, long time to respond, or fix if it gets shipped. (As you might imagine, with all these "big box" stores selling Gibsons, they have a long line of guitars and people getting helped because of simple, or stupid things NOT getting taken care of in the field).

 

I would strongly advise number 2, as if you are going to be somewhat serious about your guitars, knowing and having someone LOCAL who can work on your guitars or help you with them is going to be something that makes your life and your playing career much better. It's something worth looking into and doing for yourself, even regardless of this particular situation, so you aren't wasting your time.

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Thanks, but I really don't want to void the warranty on a brand new guitar by having if fixed other than by direction of Gibson. The GC here has a certified Gibson Tech, so just waiting on Gibson's direction. In addition the nut on this guitar was poorly cut, especially the A thru B strings and causes pinch. So it is two claims on this guitar. I assume the factory used the same length stud screws when they installed them and the high E should have been shorter. You are right, screwing it down further could ruin it and go all the way through. I am hoping Gibson will just send the shorter length stud screw and the tech can just unscrew the other one and install the shorter one. GC wanted to replace the guitar with a 2015 but I want the Classic 57 pups that came with the 2014, plus I got it for $1999 about $1K less than normally sells for.

 

I also purchased a 2014 Les Paul Custom Ebony from GC that was new and needed the G string nut cut dressed as it pinched also. Both of these Guitars have been at GC tech for 2 weeks now after submission of warranty claim. The LP Custom was still $4799 but I traded a '59 LP R9 Reissue for it and some cash.

 

Thanks for your input.

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The bridge: the "TOM" is a general term that applies to two types of bridges- the ABR-1, which is a "vintage" type, and the Nashville, a more modern type.

 

Main difference between the two is the older ABR-1 has the studs screwed directly into the wood, and the Nashville type has bushings (like the ones on the tailpiece) that the studs screw into. Visually, the Nashville is a little wider with a bit more travel for the saddles, ABR-1 is skinnier.

 

I am a bit confused though. Doing a little nut work isn't really a warranty claim, nor is it a big job. It's literally 10-15 minutes for a COMPETENT set-up guy.

 

Neither is doing a set-up (which includes dressing the nut) something that would VOID a warranty.

 

Also, doing "set-up" is something that often a store will do for free when selling a guitar. Or charge for.

 

Not sure how, or why, they would want or need to make a warranty claim. Not sure I buy that.

 

As for the stud on the bridge, they don't cut it down or have different sizes (they do, but not in increments like what you are suggesting). The "fix" would be simply to check that it is screwed down all the way, and if it isn't, drill the hole just a wee bit more so it will. VERY simple. (Although it would be smart to see that the guitar is set up properly, to make sure it should be lowered in the first place).

 

On the plus side, sounds like they should be taking care of the stuff, and you have no worries about voiding warranties or anything. But it also sounds like you are getting somewhat of a run-around.

 

If it continues, see post above. Having a competent set-up guy or luthier who is honest is still a good thing. And, there ARE Gibson certified ones as well. And furthermore, doing set-ups and especially when done right, does NOT void a warranty.

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The Bridge is actually called the AVR-2 not exactly a ABR-1. There is more saddle travel for intonation and it is also locking with a allen screw up against the screw. When the nuts are cut incorrectly, wrong angle and pinch the factory provided strings, it is covered under warranty, the depth, width, and angle is all part of factory spec and normally PLEKED. When the nut holds the string tight and doesn't move when the tuning keys are turned on an electronic tuner the nut is pinched. If I opted for a bigger size string than the factory .010 and the nut pinched, then it would not be covered under warranty. I turn the tuning keys almost 1 and half times and nothing, then there will be a pop sound and the string will be two steps sharp then. It's the improper cut of the nut and the fault of the factory. The screwpost sticking out like that likewise is a factory defect. I don't desire to cut my hand leaving it like that.

 

I am certain that all 335s that come out of the Gibson Memphis factory could not have the screw sticking way out like that at factory action specs. Been playing and setting up my own guitars since 1963 and I have the right tools and gauges and factory specs. I play and have always played my guitars at the factory spec, to me they sound and play the best, but that's just me. Just wondering how thick the 3 ply soundboard wood is and if they can drill it down another 1/32, fine but it could also go all the way through. That's why GC Tech is waiting on Gibson for direction. Gibson has acknowledged the claims but wanted more pictures before they make a final decision. My GC tech won't be in until tomorrow, works Thurs thru Mon with Tues and Weds off. So I should know something by tomorrow hopefully.

 

A poorly cut nut direct from the factory that pinches and angled wrong in the slots is warranty on brand new guitar, Gibson even will acknowledge that, they just want more pictures of every thing. The nuts aren't supposed to bind up the strings.....it's a QC issue.

 

Setups, I agree with you, and I do my own truss rod, action, pickup heights etc, anything else on a new guitar is warranty work unless I want bigger strings which I don't.

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Found this on this forum from BentonC of the Gibson Customer Service Team,

 

"Posted 15 June 2010 - 09:38 AM

One of the benefits of buying a new Gibson through an authorized dealer is that you have access to our warranty, which will cover this in the unlikely event that your string may be binding at the nut. Feel free to contact Customer Service at 1-800-444-2766 ext. 1 and ask us about the warranty if you bought the guitar new. We're happy to assist!"

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I had the same problem with a 2014 ES when I lowered the bridge the threaded post stuck out. It had sharp ends...unfinished cut end. I just lowered the bridge low enough to expose more of the thread; masked the bridge end, and just filed it lower and also Dremel polished. I didn't feel wasting time driving and waiting to have it fixed... easy15 mins max.

 

Another way if you can do it is to screw the bolt more into the body. You can use the thumb wheel from the other post and lock the two thumb wheels together (on the offending high post) to be able to turn the post more into the body.

 

Others have drilled the hole deeper and used longer post to bottom it out... it may improve the sustain..don't know. One of the guys here had step-by-step illustration on replacing the posts.

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Just heard from Tech and Guitar Center. He said Gibson directed he replace the nut on both the LP Custom and the ES 335 under the warranty. So Gibson is replacing the nuts if they are poorly cut at factory. Still awaiting Gibson's direction on what to do about the high screw post with jagged edge.

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Just heard from Tech and Guitar Center. He said Gibson directed he replace the nut on both the LP Custom and the ES 335 under the warranty. So Gibson is replacing the nuts if they are poorly cut at factory. Still awaiting Gibson's direction on what to do about the high screw post with jagged edge.

Oh dear.

 

That's a LONG time to wait for basically 20 minutes of work.

 

Sorry for that. If it was me, I would have got my guitars back and to a competent tech, and had been over it already. Maybe be out 60 bucks or so, give or take.

 

Should add, I haven't dealt with this kinda stuff in years. But last I knew, the way it usually used to work was a COMPETENT tech/luthier who was a Gibson certified repair facility would make the determination, fix it, and Gibson would back them up. Shops that abused Gibson (or any other maker) usually didn't for obvious reasons.

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Leo, the Guitar tech at Guitar Center in Davenport is a certified luthier and also Gibson, Martin, Fender, etc certified for Warranty and repair work. He is very competent. I get the LP Custom back this Monday with a new Graph Tech nut along with a complete setup all under warranty by Gibson...Don't cost me anything. Same with the ES 335 but I told Leo to ask Gibson again what they are going to do about the screw post being sharp and jagged and too high because Gibson approved the nut replacement and setup due to replacing the nut but never answered about the screwpost problem.

 

Had I used the Warranty Service Center, I would have had to ship the guitar at my own cost to and from Des Moines, Iowa. This way it is done locally, I know the guitar tech, see him speak directly to him and show him my guitars. He merely has to fill out a warranty claim form and submit it to the Gibson Warranty Department for approval is all.

 

The poorly cut nuts at the factory must have been so bad that when Gibson asked for second set of photos, they decided to replace the nuts on both guitars under warranty. So Gibson factory is definitely not cutting and dressing the nuts properly.

 

I could get the ES 335 back Monday too, but I want Gibson to address that screw post thing and not just ignore it.

 

I'm just a Disabled Veteran and I don't shell out $60 for fixing guitars that I've only had a few days that are covered under warranty.....not rich enough to through away $60

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Drop the phone right now and step away from the 335 and don't you dare let GC touch the posts!!!

 

The holes for the posts on newer 335's are usually drilled quite a bit deeper than they have to be. I'll bet you a dollar that all you have to do is screw it down a little further. Do NOT try to grind or file it down in place! You can take off the bridge, thread two 6-32 nuts on there, jam them together and screw the post down until it's where it needs to be. It only needs to go down about an eighth of an inch and you'll be able to feel if it's jammed against the bottom of the hole. Back the stud out an eighth of a turn to see how snug it is in the hole and then screw it in to the right position making sure it's not jammed against the bottom of the hole. For the love of god and for the sake of human decency do not let anyone at GC stick a drill bit down those holes. I'm begging you.

 

See also THIS THREAD HERE.

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Makes sense to just screw it down a little as you suggested. No the tech at GC isn't doing anything about the screwpost, just replacing the nut and setup. I wanted to know what Gibson has to say as they have not given any response on this at all. If Gibson tells him to grind it down, he will call me first and I will tell him just to forget it. It really needs just to go down about 3/64. Thanks Zipper

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got email from Gibson Customer Service. Told me I have an active warranty party claim for two replacement ABR-1 bridge posts. They can be installed by any authorized service tech or install them yourself next string change. I replied and asked them if they were going to send me the bridge posts with instructions and if both posts are the same, it doesn't solve the problem. I waited a week and got no reply, so I took it to a luthier last weds and got the guitar back today.....he said he clipped the bridge post shortening it and smoothed out the top threads, and also smoothed out the sharp edges on the bass side bridge post. He also widened the nut slots slightly and that ended the A thru B pinched strings. He also did a set up on it and everything is fine now. $60 bucks but no more aggravation and wondering if I am ever going to get a response any more.

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  • 2 weeks later...

$60 bucks...geeze! I'm with Mr. BadBluesPlayer...do it yourself!

 

The time I spend driving to the luthier, wait to get it fixed, or even make another drive... I wasted my precious time that's worth a lot more than the $60...well, that's just me. I suppose old timers like me never cared about warranties and fix it ourselves. I didn't even know what a Luthier was till the internet in the '80s, much less hard to come by in the old days of the '60s.

 

But I'm glad you got it fixed...back-charge Gibson for $60? rolleyes.gif Maybe you will get lucky and get a few packs of Gibson strings.

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Ha Ha!!! The Luthier had if for 3 days only, he had a tool that just cut the screw post off like a small bolt cutter and then smoothed out the burred edge. Took him only a few minutes. The rest was for a full setup including dressing the nut and new strings. I don't think Gibson would refund my $60, but to my amazement last week I got in the mail from Gibson Restoration and Repair Dept two screwposts....ha ha!!!! Just put them in the guitar case and leave them there.

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