Crafting a new nut.

[btoth76]

Hello!

 

As the Corian nut on my 2011 LP Classic Custom got worn out, I decided to replace it. While at it, I thought it's a good opportunity to try out some alternatives to the stock piece.

 

I was very curious about Tusq, - especially the Teflon-coated Tusq XL - as it's very popular and has outstandingly good opinions from fellow guitarists.

 

First, I layed the instrument on my bed. Doesn't sounds very professional, right? Even though, I have a proper desk for such tasks, also crafted a neck caul, I found that such a soft surface is a better place to lay the instrument on. It protects the finish, absorbs impacts, and holds the instrument still. Just make sure the headstock hangs in the air (not laid on the surface).

 

Removal of the stock Gibson nut is not as simple as many say. On recent guitars, it's epoxied. If You attempt to hammer it out the traditional way, You might eventually end up with a broken headstock. If You are about to perform nut replacement on Your Gibson guitar, I highly recommend watching the video below. You might even stop reading this thread, since all the information is there for replacing the nut with a ready to use piece. The whole point of this thread is how to craft a new nut from a blank.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NW-DTdO2DAc

 

Anyways, here is how I did remove the stock piece. I think, it's better to leave the strings on the guitar, as it allows quick checks. Loosen and get them out of the way. You might remove the tailpiece and put it aside. Protect the finish with paper towel wherever the string might contact the finish of the instrument.

 

 

Using the scalpel, I have scored the finish around the nut, and - using it as scraper -, I removed the finish from it's sides. I saw the stock nut in half carefully. Then, - using a plier - I broke it in half, and removed it from the guitar in pieces.

 

If You have properly scored and removed the lacquer around the nut (and You are lucky) it will come out with minimal damage. Inspect the nut slot.

 

 

Remove all the remains of the old nut, glue from all the exposed surfaces. Please note, do it with minimal removal of material: the wood You remove can't be put back! You might true the seating surface for the new nut, but if the stock was properly seated, there is no reason to remove any more material. It should be perfect for the new one as well.

 

 

...

[btoth76]

The Graphtech Tusq XL is almost ready to use.

 

 

All You need to do is sand it's sides, bottom and the front surface to fit the slot perfectly. It doesn't have to be very tight: just make sure, it's seated properly and doesn't protrudes at the sides. However, I shall emphasize: use precisely made tools, or sand it on true surfaces.

 

 

This product is very well made. If You maintain consistency when sanding/filing it's bottom surface, the string heights will be perfectly balanced in relation to each other. All You need to focus on, is to achieve the ideal height. That's when You will find how convenient to leave the strings on: You can quickly check what You have done. To check the string height, fret the 3rd fret. Using feeler gauges check the gap between the first fret and the bottom of the string. I found that, 0.015" at high-E, and around 0.025" at low-E are very good average figures for my aggressive picking style. As always, measure twice, file once!

 

I put the tailpiece back and tuned up the guitar. The slots on the Graphtech Tusq XL were cut perfectly, I didn't had to touch them. The guitar sounded great, as all problems related to the worn nut were gone. No rattling of the low-E string, no wolftones on the higher strings. Most importantly: as it's Teflon-coated, the issue of sticking strings - common problem with the stock Corian nuts - was gone. I was very pleased with it: excellent product, that can be installed easily by anyone.

 

...

[btoth76]

The Tusq XL nut form Graphtech is a perfect product, but I didn't wanted to stop there. I wanted to try the traditional approach, and compare it to the cutting-edge technology.

 

With that in mind, I did not glue the Tusq XL nut into the slot. It's not necessary either! Under string pressure, no way it will move! No matter how hard You play. I use lot of vibratos, big bends, and have a hard attack. Of course, it might fall out when You are replacing the strings. It's up to You. However, if You glue it place, I recommend You to use minimal amount of glue.

 

So, I have bought an unbleached bone nut blank:

 

 

...and that's where the hard-core stuff begins.

 

...

[btoth76]

So, what's so hard about crafting a nut from a blank? I have couple of dozens of rasps and files, but none of them was good for working with bone. I have been working with all kinds of materials before, but this bone blank gave me a terrible headache. It's the hardest thing I ever used as a raw material for anything.

 

The first step was to make it fit into the nut slot. After long hours of filing-checking-filing, - finally - the slot accepted it:

 

 

Then, with a graphite pencil, I draw the approximate contour on the front and back on the nut. Give Yourself some extra room. The last thing, You want to see after hours of struggling with such a dense material, that You ruined the bone blank by under-sizing it.

 

Shape the blank to contour:

 

 

...

[btoth76]

Using smaller files and/or sandpapers, shape the nut to proper size. Again, work a little - check often! Take Your time, and be patient! The best way of checking, is to install the nut in place and - while holding it down with Your thumb -, gently rub the tip of a finger over the side of the nut and the surrounding binding. Note how it feels. Is it protruding? Is there a ridge, or gap? It should completely blend into the binding.

 

When You are happy with the sides, give the nut a 17 degree slope - to follow the headstock break angle. Your may give it steeper angle - I will explain why I went with 17 degrees a bit later.

 

Smooth all the exposed edges. Round them, to make it feel comfortable to Your playing hands.

 

 

Using 800/1200/2000-grit polishing papers, make it super smooth and shiny:

 

 

...

[Mike_L]

Nice work Bence and thanks for taking the time to post.

 

Definitely an exercise in patience! I'm a bone man and I've done two with another on the horizon. One of my favorite mods and when done right, very satisfying.

[btoth76]

The Graphtech nut comes handy for setting the string spacing. I laid them on a piece of masking tape, both facing the same direction, and copied over the spacing.

 

 

As a side note: it would have been wise to make a template of the string spacing on a piece of cardboard, before removing the stock nut...

 

Using the scalpel, I cut slots over the pencil marks. It makes easier to start working with the file. Otherwise, the file might glide over the smooth surface, instead of cutting at the right spot from the beginning.

 

 

Then, - with a small triangular file - I cut the slots deep enough to be able to hold the strings. Just at the inner edge of the nut. Put the nut back and placed the strings into initial slots. I have marked the natural bending curve of the strings as they head towards the tuning posts:

 

 

...

[btoth76]

Instead of purchasing expensive nut files, I used the - previously mentioned - triangular file, and a small flat one with very narrow, sharp edge. Also, the 800-grit sandpaper folded once or twice is very useful, as the slots are not cut straight, but curved. At the nut the strings have two break angles (on two planes at one point), it is highly important to cut the string slots curved. Sharp turns will cause string catching, or might lead to string breakage. Keep in mind, the slots should not be wider than string's diameter.

 

The slots are cut to follow the strings' directions:

 

 

Now, it's time to set the string height. Again, it takes lot of short filing, with lot of checking in between. Set the string height at the inner edge of the nut (towards the fretboard), then - from that point - give it a 17 degree slope downwards (toward the headstock). Always make sure the string is properly seated at the inner edge of the nut! The other edge is not critical (explained later). Otherwise, the wound strings will rattle (especially the low-E) and at some frets it will buzz or sound muffled. Look at the picture below. The low-E and A are seating on the middle of nut. If You look closely at the inner edge, You can see a gap. In this case, focus on the middle and outer section of the string slot. Work until the strings seat properly at the inner edge. This is critical!

 

 

Prior to final assembly, polish all the exposed surfaces and the string slots once more with 2000-grit polishing paper.

 

...

[btoth76]

There has been a lots of debate about the ideal nut shape. Some say, the ideal nut has a minimal contact surface for the strings. They say, the strings in their slots should only touch the inner edge of the nut. That's how Gibson's stock nuts are done, and that's how Graphtech nuts are shaped. If You are in this camp, instead of the 17 degree, give the nut a steeper slope.

 

Note the difference of the contact surface angle.

 

I went the outer way this time, as I like to experiment. The strings have maximal contact on the new nut I crafted from bone. Is there any difference? Honestly, I can't tell. It works properly. I can't tell what is the factor that makes one or another characteristic of the Corian-Tusq-bone nut better than on the other one. I can make a overall opinion about them. The Graphtech is better than the stock Corian used by Gibson: it doesn't sticks. It won't catch the string, and release it with a pinging sound while tuning. Does it sound better? Yes, as it's a new nut with healthy string slots. The bone? It doesn't sticks either, the instrument is noticeable louder, sustains better, the notes are more pronounced. But most importantly: the notes of different pitches sound balanced. When You strike a chord, You can hear all the strings at equal volume through the amp. And that's a very pleasing experience. The bone nut is the best.

 

Bence.

[aliasphobias]

Thanks for the tutorial! A couple things I have found by doing this: take a piece of the old nut (provided it fit well) and use a Crescent wrench or caliper as a go/no go gauge (less time working around the headstock with tools), I put my belt sander upside down in my vise and rough out the shape, takes only a couple minutes. I like your idea of marking the shape on both sides. Like anything else they get easier after the first couple you make. Slow and steady is the ticket!

I appreciate you taking the time to post.

[btoth76]

... I put my belt sander upside down in my vise and rough out the shape, takes only a couple minutes. I like your idea of marking the shape on both sides...

 

Thanks!

 

Yes, sure there are more convenient ways. I had to think about neighbors when considering the usage of power tools. I live in a blockhouse which has very thin walls. I can even hear them talking in the next flat...

 

I think, the whole point of these tutorials is to list all the factors to consider. How to perform these tasks? It's really up to each individual. Also, to show it's really not rocket science. If I can do it, anyone can. Often, people are just too afraid to start such works. But it's fun, and gives lots of joy when You finish such a project.

 

Best wishes... Bence

[Searcy]

Thanks!

 

Yes, sure there are more convenient ways. I had to think about neighbors when considering the usage of power tools. I live in a blockhouse which has very thin walls. I can even hear them talking in the next flat...

 

I think, the whole point of these tutorials is to list all the factors to consider. How to perform these tasks? It's really up to each individual. Also, to show it's really not rocket science. If I can do it, anyone can. Often, people are just too afraid to start such works. But it's fun, and gives lots of joy when You finish such a project.

 

Best wishes... Bence

 

 

There's also the god awful stench that comes with grinding bone with power tools. Makes me want to barf.

[Mr. C.O. Jones]

Holy cow Bence!

 

 

You did a great job on that bone nut.

If I knew someone like you in my city I would let him/her mess with my guitars.

 

 

Looks perfect, especially on that guitar.

 

Nicely done and well documented too.

[btoth76]

Thank You, Marcos!

 

:)

 

Bence.

[aliasphobias]

Thanks!

 

'Yes, sure there are more convenient ways. I had to think about neighbors when considering the usage of power tools. I live in a blockhouse which has very thin walls. I can even hear them talking in the next flat... '

 

I'm picking up on what you're putting down! A belt sander is comparatively quiet to a Les Paul I agree this stuff is not "rocket science". Once I became competent at changing strings I started looking around the guitar like.... what's next? For myself, now that I feel confident with my ability, I'd like to try a piece of fossilized ivory. From what I have read there is not much difference in tone(bone/FI) but there is something appealing about putting a nut on that will most likely last my lifetime.

Glad it turned out well for you. It looks splendid.

[btoth76]

Hello!

 

We think quite the same. :)

 

I am always looking forward to the next task on the guitar. It's a strange coincidence, that I was thinking of trying ivory too! That one I will try next, - and then - having experience with different materials, I will replace the Corian nut on all my Gibsons.

 

Best wishes... Bence.

[Rabs]

Hello!

 

We think quite the same. :)

 

I am always looking forward to the next task on the guitar. It's a strange coincidence, that I was thinking of trying ivory too! That one I will try next, - and then - having experience with different materials, I will replace the Corian nut on all my Gibsons.

 

Best wishes... Bence.

Awesome stuff man

 

I remember when you were ordering your first set of Luthier tools.. Now look at you, very impressive and always very informative and well presented =D>

 

So when will we see your first guitar build thread? ;)

[btoth76]

Thank You, Rabs! :)

 

I am afraid, I have to delay my first complete built until I go to pension. I fancy the idea, but I have no time for it.

 

I am quite satisfied, when I can accomplish such - relatively - small tasks. The best thing about them, that it teaches how the part functions, and what nuances can alter it's proper operation. In this case, I found out the following thing: with the frets being perfectly leveled, the low-E string was still buzzing. It did, until I shaped the nut's string slot bottom perfectly round. If the wound string doesn't seats properly in the slot, it will rattle and sound muffled around the middle of the fretboard.

 

The other important experience is, that it is not necessary to purchase the complete Stew-Mac inventory of tools. For crafting this nut, I used regular files - nothing specialized.

 

Bence.

[Golden]

Looks good, all good info.

[btoth76]

Looks good, all good info.

 

Thank You!

 

Best wishes... Bence

[Pesh]

Great post, Bence; thanks how do you feel it sounds with the new bone nut?

[btoth76]

Hello Pesh.

 

Both with the Tusq XL and the real bone, the tuning stability improved. These both provide a surface with less friction for the strings. The common issue of sticking (G-)string is gone. The Corian nut - on all my other Gibsons - does catch the plain strings while tuning them up to pitch. As they release the strings, - with a pinging sound - they go sharp immediately. This is gone on my Classic Custom.

 

The Tusq XL is treated with Teflon. It's a permanently lubricated nut. Also, it comes in form of a blank, and as a pre-shaped unit. This latter is a drop-in replacement. Adjust it's height by filing it's bottom, and adjust it's width, and You are done.

 

The bone is very hard material to work with. But, it's worth all the hassle. It's main advantage that the strings seem to sound at equal volume. I noticed this when strummed a chord across all six strings. I could hear all the strings through the amp. Often, some frequency ranges got lost in the mix.

 

Also, important to note, people should never attempt to hammer-off the old nut on Gibsons. Not only because it's glued on very strongly, but it seats very deep in the slot. Even, if it's not glued in, no way the nut will turn out of the deep slot by being hammered. Such an attempt will result lacquer cracks all around the headstock veneer, as it did on my Classic Custom.

 

Don't do this on a Gibson!

 

Bence.

[btoth76]

Hello!

 

If You don't like the amber color of the unbleached cow bone I have been using in this demo, the camel bone is a perfect alternative.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bone-Block-Nut-Guitar-Parts-Carving-60-x-7-x-9-mm-/381093925546?hash=item58baf7d2aa

 

I have replaced the cow bone on my Classic Custom with it. They have the same properties, except for the visuals: tough structure, but can be easily polished. They both sound the same, and provide a slippery slot surface for the strings.

 

This is for those guitars which look better with black nut:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Large-Flat-Dark-Horn-Blank-Plate-s-White-Streaks-130-x-40-x-9-mm-/162058661609?hash=item25bb72eee9

 

I am going to try this next for my '78 LP Recording.

 

Bence.

[aliasphobias]

I salute you on your endeavor. Let us know how it goes. Maybe give the neighbors some lunch money then break out the power tools

[btoth76]

Hello.

 

Thank You.

 

I got some better diamond files now. Also, I have found a marble plate with true surface to work on. I stuck a piece of 400-grit sanding paper on it with double-sided tape. It's much quicker that way. Of course, the first piece always takes longer than the rest.

 

Bence.