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Strings break all the time, What's wrong with my guitar ?


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Posted

Hey guys,

 

I have a Gibson les paul reissue 60's G0. For a while it played perfectly fine, then I decided to clean it up a bit and restring it etc ... After that I noticed that the strings break more often than usual, especially the D and A strings, which usually never break first, so I took it to a luthier who adjusted everything in it, and changed the nut as well as he said that it could be the problem because if you have an old nut it can't handle the pressure of bending strings etc ... so we did that but the strings still break that often,

 

Do you guys know why this happens ? could it be the bridge that needs to be changed as well ? What could be the culprit ?

 

Thank you for your help, I am lost

Posted

Try reducing string angle over the saddles. Try top wrapping. Also take a closer look at how you are wrapping strings on the peg heads. Try dental floss on the string slots on the saddles. Try pencil graphite dust on the bridge and nut. Don't throw money at the prob.

Posted

Where exactly along the string path do they break?

 

This time it broke close to the bridge

 

@zentar, I tried graphite, same issue

Posted

Hello and welcome here, mate! [thumbup]

 

... After that I noticed that the strings break more often than usual, especially the D and A strings, which usually never break first, ...

This time it broke close to the bridge

...

Due to the thin core D4th strings may break sometimes, but a breaking A5th is unusual I think. Do you use same brand, gauge, and possibly manufacturing lot of strings on a guitar of different design? If yes, do they last longer there?

Posted

Hello and welcome here, mate! [thumbup]

 

 

 

Due to the thin core D4th strings may break sometimes, but a breaking A5th is unusual I think. Do you use same brand, gauge, and possibly manufacturing lot of strings on a guitar of different design? If yes, do they last longer there?

 

I've been using Ernie ball 10's, Haven't really tried other brands, and yes all the strings are from the same packet, guage 10.

Posted

Hello and welcome here, mate! [thumbup]

 

 

 

Due to the thin core D4th strings may break sometimes, but a breaking A5th is unusual I think. Do you use same brand, gauge, and possibly manufacturing lot of strings on a guitar of different design? If yes, do they last longer there?

 

I've been using Ernie ball 10's, Haven't really tried other brands, and yes all the strings are from the same packet, guage 10.

Posted

I've been using Ernie ball 10's, Haven't really tried other brands, and yes all the strings are from the same packet, guage 10.

But still, do you also use them on another guitar, and what about their life expectancy there? Though it fortunately doesn't happen very often, there might be string batches of inferior quality tending to premature breaking. Spring steel used for making plain strings and string cores is a finicky thing, and making wound strings is a tricky task.

Posted

But still, do you also use them on another guitar, and what about their life expectancy there? Though it fortunately doesn't happen very often, there might be string batches of inferior quality tending to premature breaking. Spring steel used for making plain strings and string cores is a finicky thing, and making wound strings is a tricky task.

 

I've been using the same brand for a while, and I have never had this kind of problems before, when the strings break it would be the high E or else that makes sense and acceptable regarding the time I used them for, though this time they're breaking when I expect it the least, and it's either the D or A string. I am going to try another brand and see how it goes, even though I don't think it's that that is causing the problem, what do you recommend ?

Posted

I don't have a specific recommendation. I think it's best to go with some of that you like sound and feel.

 

I'm practically married to the strings of a local string maker since 1982 (Optima Chromes). They sound very bright. Of all the strings I know in person Gibson Brite Wires come closest to them. They produce lots of sustain and also sound fantastic through piezos and on Fenders.

Posted

Close to the bridge, or right at the saddle? If you're uncertain, keep the string on and check exactly where it broke next time.

 

I'm no luthier, but I would think bridge before nut?

Posted

If you're strings are breaking near the bridge, I feel your pain. I had this problem forever with my 72 Les Paul Deluxe. Besides the fact that the bridge is a stress point, normal body sweat from my arm was making it worse. I did 2 things which you may or may not agree with, but I will say that i bend a lot, and NEVER break strings at the bridge anymore.

 

1) I built a metal guard out of chrome sheet metal and bent into a shape so that it basically surrounds the top of the bridge. On the underside, there are flat areas where I use cut pieces of black 3M command strips (Velcro release) to I can attach or remove it easily. Besides keeping sweat off the bridge and minimizing corrosion, it makes for a smoother surface if you happen to have a playing style like mine, where I sometimes tend to rest my wrist at the bridge. I can post a photo of the attachment I made if you're interested.

 

2) I finally also switched to graphtech saddles. These graphite saddles pretty much eliminate friction at the bridge, and so if you can keep the area clean (see point #1), you'll never break strings at that point again. The low friction also helps maintain tuning after bends. You will lose a tiny amount of sustain in the process. But if you use a compressor in your effects chain, you can pretty much compensate for the the slight loss.

Posted

If you're strings are breaking near the bridge, I feel your pain. I had this problem forever with my 72 Les Paul Deluxe. Besides the fact that the bridge is a stress point, normal body sweat from my arm was making it worse. I did 2 things which you may or may not agree with, but I will say that i bend a lot, and NEVER break strings at the bridge anymore.

 

1) I built a metal guard out of chrome sheet metal and bent into a shape so that it basically surrounds the top of the bridge. On the underside, there are flat areas where I use cut pieces of black 3M command strips (Velcro release) to I can attach or remove it easily. Besides keeping sweat off the bridge and minimizing corrosion, it makes for a smoother surface if you happen to have a playing style like mine, where I sometimes tend to rest my wrist at the bridge. I can post a photo of the attachment I made if you're interested.

 

2) I finally also switched to graphtech saddles. These graphite saddles pretty much eliminate friction at the bridge, and so if you can keep the area clean (see point #1), you'll never break strings at that point again. The low friction also helps maintain tuning after bends. You will lose a tiny amount of sustain in the process. But if you use a compressor in your effects chain, you can pretty much compensate for the the slight loss.

 

 

Yes, Send me a picture, I am interested to see what it looks like, but I am not sure if I can do this mod myself. I bend a lot as well, and sweat too, I might consider changing the bridge if it keeps on breaking and see how it goes, it's very frustrating having this issue

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Check your saddles, sometimes the factory string grooves can be rough or sharp which can cut into the strings,

 

a fingernail file or high grade sandpaper can round them smooth

Posted

For different reasons I went to a Tone Pro with rollers. I'm very happy with it. May be an option.

 

I do bend the strings but not that hard or often so I do not know how it would react.

 

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Posted

Had that problem with one of my Les Paul's. In my case it was G and B that broke a few times.

Replaced it with a Tonepros bridge (not roller) and I never broke a string again.

In comparison the slots on the stock bridge look like the grand canyon, the Tonepros saddles have a very tiny slot.

At first I was scared that with the first bend the string would jump out of the saddle, but it didn't.

Really good stuff!

Posted

This will help:

 

 

...or, what I do: fold a piece of 1200-grit polishing paper in two, and clean up the saddle slots.

 

Good luck... Bence

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