Rabs Posted July 18, 2016 Posted July 18, 2016 Ive been looking at bridges.. Just something a bit different... Theres that Hipshot stuff which is really nice, but its sooooo expensive... Apart from that theres not that many options about but I saw this gotoh one which I thought looked cool.. Anyone tried one? Also saw this one a Schaller 3d6.. looks pretty unique.. this one actually lets you change the string spacing http://guitar-parts.biz/hp135016/Guitar-Bridge-3D-6.htm
Retired Posted July 18, 2016 Posted July 18, 2016 Bottom one looks interesting, never saw one like that. Question for you since you build guitars. What do all those screws do on the bridge and why do they have them offset? I've always been afraid to touch them thinking I might screw things up.
Rabs Posted July 18, 2016 Author Posted July 18, 2016 Bottom one looks interesting, never saw one like that. Question for you since you build guitars. What do all those screws do on the bridge and why do they have them offset? I've always been afraid to touch them thinking I might screw things up. The screws on the saddles make it go up and down, and the ones on the back make them go back and forward so you can set your intonation and string height up for each string.
Pesh Posted July 18, 2016 Posted July 18, 2016 Bottom one looks interesting, never saw one like that. Question for you since you build guitars. What do all those screws do on the bridge and why do they have them offset? I've always been afraid to touch them thinking I might screw things up. The screws on the saddles make it go up and down, and the ones on the back make them go back and forward so you can set your intonation and string height up for each string. Plus; if you review the screwhead area along the back face; you will notice that this is not a string-through bridge; it is also the anchor. Each of the silvered screws which set the intonation / scale length has a corresponding hole which lines up with the saddle groove. The offset design means the string does not bend sideways from the saddle, and that the bridge can also have the adjustable saddles and remain quite compact
Retired Posted July 19, 2016 Posted July 19, 2016 Ok, I think my Gold Top is off some. I did buy it in the used section, but it did look new. Who knows who played it in the stores and it went from one to another. I can look across the strings with my eye, and see a slight difference in height. I have got a buz sound before on the first E string. I adjusted the height of the bridge a couple of turns and got some of that out. But I was wondering if I should take it to guitar center where I bought it from and have the technician go over it and check it all out. I know a lot of you guys do your own guitars, but I'm afraid I might screw things up worse.
merciful-evans Posted July 19, 2016 Posted July 19, 2016 The Schaller 3d6 looks the most practical (no opinion on the 'aesthetics'). The Combi Bridge on my Ric 650 is very similar (no I cant find a picture at present), but it's essentially the same design. I do like the rollers and the independent string height saddles.
Rabs Posted July 19, 2016 Author Posted July 19, 2016 Ok, I think my Gold Top is off some. I did buy it in the used section, but it did look new. Who knows who played it in the stores and it went from one to another. I can look across the strings with my eye, and see a slight difference in height. I have got a buz sound before on the first E string. I adjusted the height of the bridge a couple of turns and got some of that out. But I was wondering if I should take it to guitar center where I bought it from and have the technician go over it and check it all out. I know a lot of you guys do your own guitars, but I'm afraid I might screw things up worse. Well I reckon you should try it yourself... It does seem a bit overwhelming when you haven't done it before but I can assure you its really not that hard... The height on a LP is a bit different as you don't have control over each saddle but the tilt of the bridge... And all you can do is move it up and down, you cant really screw anything up... If you have a side that buzzing, just raise it slightly and try again. If you go too high, lower it :) easy... As for intonation, well that's easy too.. You play an open string (tuned) and then play the same string at the 12th fret, if its sharp then you move it one way and if its flat you move it the other till you get the open and 12th string both in tune. It always helps me when I watch a few videos too when I want to learn something new, that way I get to actually see what you physically have to do.
Retired Posted July 20, 2016 Posted July 20, 2016 1468953155[/url]' post='1785486']Well I reckon you should try it yourself... It does seem a bit overwhelming when you haven't done it before but I can assure you its really not that hard.. The height on a LP is a bit different as you don't have control over each saddle but the tilt of the bridge... And all you can do is move it up and down, you cant really screw anything up... If you have a side that buzzing, just raise it slightly and try again. If you go too high, lower it :) easy... As for intonation, well that's easy too.. You play an open string (tuned) and then play the same string at the 12th fret, if its sharp then you move it one way and if its flat you move it the other till you get the open and 12th string both in tune. It always helps me when I watch a few videos too when I want to learn something new, that way I get to actually see what you physically have to do. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZEm0WOGJQU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1QYbpAx-pE That's it? Wow, Talk about learn something new. Thanks Rab's. I had no idea what those screws did, so it's like tuning the guitar. I can do that. Gives me something to do tomorrow. Thank you for your help. Much appreciated.
Rabs Posted July 20, 2016 Author Posted July 20, 2016 That's it? Wow, Talk about learn something new. Thanks Rab's. I had no idea what those screws did, so it's like tuning the guitar. I can do that. Gives me something to do tomorrow. Thank you for your help. Much appreciated. No worries :) The only other things to worry about are nut issues (which is a whole other ball game) and any neck bow which you can rectify with a small turn of the trussrod... But assuming those are ok... The intonation and string height is the easy bit. Let us know how it goes
Guest Farnsbarns Posted July 20, 2016 Posted July 20, 2016 What's the single black screw adjustment on the second of the 2 for? On the treble side?
Pinch Posted July 20, 2016 Posted July 20, 2016 Retired: One thing you should keep in mind when adjusting intonation: sometimes you'll find you need more space than is available (which you can fix by flipping the saddle). Never ever force a saddle - when it's gone as far as it can go, don't force an extra turn with the screwdriver. Surefire way to break the saddle!
merciful-evans Posted July 20, 2016 Posted July 20, 2016 What's the single black screw adjustment on the second of the 2 for? On the treble side? Good question. Judging by the position I would imagine its there for a whammy bar option, though the attachment screws look too central for that to be used as a floating bridge.
Guest Farnsbarns Posted July 20, 2016 Posted July 20, 2016 Good question. Judging by the position I would imagine its there for a whammy bar option, though the attachment screws look too central for that to be used as a floating bridge. My first thoughts exactly, in that order. I cleverly thought of clicking on Rabs' link eventually . This is what I found... You can use the screw on the treble side to fix the string saddles in place so that they don't knock together and rattle when aggressive playing techniques are used.
merciful-evans Posted July 20, 2016 Posted July 20, 2016 My first thoughts exactly, in that order. I cleverly thought of clicking on Rabs' link eventually . This is what I found... ah! Maybe that's an eccentric head on that screw then? To squash the saddles together.
Guest Farnsbarns Posted July 20, 2016 Posted July 20, 2016 ah! Maybe that's an eccentric head on that screw then? To squash the saddles together. Yeah, I think so. Perhaps I can see a slight eccentricity in the pic but could be imagining it now I'm looking for it.
Rabs Posted July 20, 2016 Author Posted July 20, 2016 Yeah, I think so. Perhaps I can see a slight eccentricity in the pic but could be imagining it now I'm looking for it. Theres not much info but from this vid I can see that it comes with a base plate.. Id imagine the screw tightens on that plate and locks it all in place once adjustments are done And another interesting Schaller bridge
Retired Posted July 20, 2016 Posted July 20, 2016 1468977168[/url]' post='1785546']No worries :) The only other things to worry about are nut issues (which is a whole other ball game) and any neck bow which you can rectify with a small turn of the trussrod... But assuming those are ok... The intonation and string height is the easy bit. Let us know how it goes That's another area I don't know anything about. Funny, I've built a race car from the ground up from scratch and afraid of messing with a guitar. Well today I took the bridge way down and tuned it and it sounded crappy. Then I turned it up slowly until it went too high and didn't like the sound and then back down to where it sounded the best. No buzz, or metallic sound. Then in tune I checked the intonation as you said. It wasn't off by that much. I only tweeked them a bit. It does sound better. Thanks for your advice!
Rabs Posted July 20, 2016 Author Posted July 20, 2016 That's another area I don't know anything about. Funny, I've built a race car from the ground up from scratch and afraid of messing with a guitar. Well today I took the bridge way down and tuned it and it sounded crappy. Then I turned it up slowly until it went too high and didn't like the sound and then back down to where it sounded the best. No buzz, or metallic sound. Then in tune I checked the intonation as you said. It wasn't off by that much. I only tweeked them a bit. It does sound better. Thanks for your advice! No problem... There is one other thing... If you change the string height and it plays nice but doesn't sound as good you can always lower or raise the pickup height to match.. That should compensate sound wise for any change you make.
Retired Posted July 20, 2016 Posted July 20, 2016 1469050153[/url]' post='1785679']No problem... There is one other thing... If you change the string height and it plays nice but doesn't sound as good you can always lower or raise the pickup height to match.. That should compensate sound wise for any change you make. I'm sure if many of you guys could go through it, it would sound amazing. I confess I'm not a guitar tech. It's a 2007 and the truss rod has never been tweaked. Do they go out of whack that much in 9 years? I do know how to turn it but never have.
Rabs Posted July 20, 2016 Author Posted July 20, 2016 I'm sure if many of you guys could go through it, it would sound amazing. I confess I'm not a guitar tech. It's a 2007 and the truss rod has never been tweaked. Do they go out of whack that much in 9 years? I do know how to turn it but never have. No its not much... Probably as much as your intonation.. But yes it does happen.. I only checked my personal guitars about a year ago.. And while I don't have an issue with the way any of them play, each one did have a slight bow... I still haven't got around to tightening the trussrod on any of them but I will one day :) The way to check is run a straight edge along the fretboard.. if theres a bow then you will see the straight edge will rest on the high and low frets and there will be a small gap between the frets and the straight edge in the middle... I have a notched straight edge so it goes over the frets and is even easier to see... This is a setup I did for a friend.. He was given a guitar (an Epi SG) and the thing wouldn't stay in tune for a second... After tightening the trussrod it got much much better.. So this is the before.. It was REALLY bad And after The main rule about tightening a trussrod is never turn it too much too quick.. Just a quarter turn then check, quarter turn then check etc... Most of the time you will get it with one or two quarter turns.
Retired Posted July 21, 2016 Posted July 21, 2016 No wonder you build guitars. Your pretty smart. I'll check it next time I change strings. I played it quite a bit when I first bought it and when I found out what it was worth, I put it in its case and now play it just sparingly. Want to keep it in mint condition although it's my favorite guitar. You already got that annoying buzz out of the 6th string. Thanks again Rabs.
Rabs Posted July 21, 2016 Author Posted July 21, 2016 No wonder you build guitars. Your pretty smart. I'll check it next time I change strings. I played it quite a bit when I first bought it and when I found out what it was worth, I put it in its case and now play it just sparingly. Want to keep it in mint condition although it's my favorite guitar. You already got that annoying buzz out of the 6th string. Thanks again Rabs. :) Im just giving out (and trying to give back when I can) what I have learned from the amazing people on here who taught me so much... Youtube has also helped me A LOT, if it wernt for that I reckon it would have taken me twice as long to learn to build...
merciful-evans Posted August 17, 2016 Posted August 17, 2016 Rabs, I dont know if you have chosen one of theses bridges yet, but... I recently changed strings on my Ric 650 & am convinced it is the same bridge as the 3rd one on the OP. For function I rate the bridge as the best I've yet used. As you said, the string spacing can be altered as well as individual saddle adjustments for action & intonation. Its rock solid and the rollers are kind to the strings.
Rabs Posted August 17, 2016 Author Posted August 17, 2016 Rabs, I dont know if you have chosen one of theses bridges yet, but... I recently changed strings on my Ric 650 & am convinced it is the same bridge as the 3rd one on the OP. For function I rate the bridge as the best I've yet used. As you said, the string spacing can be altered as well as individual saddle adjustments for action & intonation. Its rock solid and the rollers are kind to the strings. Yeah that's the Schaller bridge... And good to hear from someone who has one.. They certainly do look good.. I think I prefer the black one though.... Maybe on the next lot of builds I will get one to try.... Its all pushing the price up though, cheap they aint...
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