Rabs Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 Man, topics like these make me want to start building. I finally have a garage to build in, and no one does a decent flying v bass since Eastwood stopped. Do it I work out of my parents garage (cos I don't have one) and I use all hand power tools and manual tools... No big fancy bench tools for me (yet :) ). Its all router, drill, various sanders and lots of hand sanding.. I make my own templates from MDF... And I use and angle grinder to shape my necks :) (messy but fun) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NePb Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 Do it I work out of my parents garage (cos I don't have one) and I use all hand power tools and manual tools... No big fancy bench tools for me (yet :) ). Its all router, drill, various sanders and lots of hand sanding.. I make my own templates from MDF... And I use and angle grinder to shape my necks :) (messy but fun) twist my arm a little more. What power tools do you use? I'm gonna start pricing this out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 twist my arm a little more. What power tools do you use? I'm gonna start pricing this out. I generally go for the mid range household stuff.. The professional versions are so so expensive. But obviously if you go too cheap then its probably going to chip your wood and not last very long.. If I am busy id say they would last me a year or so before they start showing signs of needing replacement. So for instance with routers, one of the important functions is being able to use the depth meter and the plunge.. That plunge action starts to stick after a while as dust gets caught in there. And on all of them the motors will just start to under perform after a while... Stuff like this https://www.diy.com/departments/jcb-2100w-240v-1-4-1-2-router-prt210j2/607576_BQ.prd And then a jigsaw, drill and a few different sanders.. Random orbital sanders are great. I would also say, start off with some cheap wood. I used an old door for my first ever attempt and pallet wood to try stuff out on.. Things like that. And I watched many many videos of people building on youtube. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NePb Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 I generally go for the mid range household stuff.. The professional versions are so so expensive. But obviously if you go too cheap then its probably going to chip your wood and not last very long.. If I am busy id say they would last me a year or so before they start showing signs of needing replacement. So for instance with routers, one of the important functions is being able to use the depth meter and the plunge.. That plunge action starts to stick after a while as dust gets caught in there. And on all of them the motors will just start to under perform after a while... Stuff like this https://www.diy.com/departments/jcb-2100w-240v-1-4-1-2-router-prt210j2/607576_BQ.prd And then a jigsaw, drill and a few different sanders.. Random orbital sanders are great. I would also say, start off with some cheap wood. I used an old door for my first ever attempt and pallet wood to try stuff out on.. Things like that. And I watched many many videos of people building on youtube. Fortunately, from my time in construction, I have a large amount of professional grade power tools. Realistically, I don't see why I couldn't get into this for around $600 or so. It just needs to bloody well warm up so I can actually go into my garage. Thanks for the advice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 My roomate and I have been brewing beers. Here’s a wheat ale that we just opened up This is our second batch. We’re going to try to make the next batch more clear/less hazy but controlling the temp better and chilling the wort faster 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NePb Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 My roomate and I have been brewing beers. Here’s a wheat ale that we just opened up This is our second batch. We’re going to try to make the next batch more clear/less hazy but controlling the temp better and chilling the wort faster You guys give good head... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle fester Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 Do it I work out of my parents garage (cos I don't have one) and I use all hand power tools and manual tools... No big fancy bench tools for me (yet :) ). Its all router, drill, various sanders and lots of hand sanding.. I make my own templates from MDF... I'm in, shaping the fretboard and getting all the frets levelled concerns me - but think I can muscle through the rest. I want to build a tele-esque guitar. guess I need to go get some materials. Rabs, what's step 1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 I'm in, shaping the fretboard and getting all the frets levelled concerns me - but think I can muscle through the rest. I want to build a tele-esque guitar. guess I need to go get some materials. Rabs, what's step 1? You can buy a radiused sanding block or buy a pre radiused/slotted or even pre fretted board from stewmac or eBay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 I'm in, shaping the fretboard and getting all the frets levelled concerns me - but think I can muscle through the rest. I want to build a tele-esque guitar. guess I need to go get some materials. Rabs, what's step 1? Yes as Dub says. You can buy pre-slotted and radius'd boards. And indeed I get them pre slotted as its only a few pounds more.. As for fret levelling its not that hard, you just need to try it a few times and watch lots of videos of other people doing it. And yes I have a radius sanding block and levelling beams... The main thing about fret levelling is to keep even pressure on the file or what ever it is you are using as otherwise what happens is you will press more on one side and you will end up with very short frets to then get that all level again if you see what I mean. Same when you put a radius on.. Check my build diaries on Facebook, I have several.. https://www.facebook.com/pg/RabsWoodGuitars/photos I am of course happy to answer any questions.. so just shoot. Actually I can show you my radius block You just use some double sided sticky tape and stick some sand paper on the bottom. Start off with like 80 grit to get it to shape and then when you know its almost there move up the grits to 120, 240, 340, 400, 600.. You can stop there but often I go up to 1200.. You will see where its sanding You will see here the sanding marks almost meet in the middle Then I have a gauge to check im on target Then I go up the grits and get it nice and smooth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 Also a good trick. While you are doing the radius for the board its a good idea to collect the dust that comes from it. And the reason being is that usually you have to deepen the fret slots a bit after radiusing.. Its very hard to get the depth exactly correct so you end up with small holes under the frets like this So what you so is get that dust you collected and rub it in the holes Stick a drop of super glue over the top (as its a clear glue) Then when its dry, sand it back and hey presto :) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle fester Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 Huge thank you for the pics and stuff - time for me to do some thinking, and designing :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bill Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 That neck is looking sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Huge thank you for the pics and stuff - time for me to do some thinking, and designing :) Well if either of you decide to start. I expect you to post some pics for us 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Didn't get much more done yet, just a bit more sanding.. But I did oil the board, which is the first time its ever had any treatment and its been sitting around for over a year so the effect was always going to be dramatic :) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle fester Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 (edited) Step 1, the plan... I've got some stock to do the neck, so going to try that first while I figure out where I'm going to get wood for the body. I believe the critical tools I need to get are the radius sander, fretboard gage, and a fret saw. I'll mull over how I'm going to finagle them, then I'll get chugging away. (PS Rabs, yours is looking pretty sweet!) (PPS - anyone have tips on how to scam the HW/electronics for cheap?) Edited March 11, 2019 by billroy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Step 1, the plan... I've got some stock to do the neck, so going to try that first while I figure out where I'm going to get wood for the body. I believe the critical tools I need to get are the radius sander, fretboard gage, and a fret saw. I'll mull over how I'm going to finagle them, then I'll get chugging away. (PS Rabs, yours is looking pretty sweet!) (PPS - anyone have tips on how to scam the HW/electronics for cheap?) Cool.. One thing you do need to know.. StewMac have really nice but expensive stuff, but you don't always need to get the specifically built for guitar stuff... This is the file I use for fret ends.. Love these things https://www.ebay.com/itm/Guitar-Fret-End-Dressing-File-by-Uo-Chikyu-Hiroshima-21-0001/303085514658?hash=item46914defa2:g:IlsAAOSwDJNbq8wx For doing the fret crowning I use a standard triangular file and have rounded the edges over so it doesn't dig in to the board. For doing the initial fret end work, you don't need it but it works really well.. Id say get one of these files.. It files and 90 degrees to get the ends level and then at 45 degrees to give you a bevel .. Gives you a really nice start. One of these Then its really useful to get a fret rocker.. You can use that on all your guitars to check the frets https://www.ebay.com/itm/G-M-I-FRET-ROCKER-STAINLESS-STEEL-luthier-tool/260823554398?hash=item3cba4b995e:g:sZ0AAOxyVLNS8ic- And if you really want to get in to this and again use it to check your other guitars get a slotted straight edge to check neck straightness https://www.ebay.com/itm/GUITAR-NECK-STRAIGHT-EDGE-Notched-LUTHIERS-TOOL/261802832049?epid=22023281421&hash=item3cf4aa30b1:g:ag8AAOxyXWdQ5rtW For a fret saw, I use something simple like this.. You can always get fancy Japanese versions if you get in to it but while they are nice aren't really necessary to do the job https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-74024-Thin-Blade-Modeling-Razor-Saw-Craft-Tool-Plastic-Model-Blades/273751384470?hash=item3fbcdaa196:g:ArMAAOSwzFVa4F1C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 Ok.. Its oiling time :D First thing though was to stain the neck as its a bit lighter than the body wood and would annoy me.. So I tape it off and use some Peruvian Mahogany stain And the result Then while that was drying I oiled the body... And thus will follow a load of gratuitous shots :D 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 And then when that dried a bit I did the back and neck NICE :) More soon. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle fester Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 And then when that dried a bit I did the back and neck Looking good! What type of wood did you use for the body / neck? Do you then cover the wood dye with something else, i.e. poly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub-T-123 Posted March 14, 2019 Author Share Posted March 14, 2019 Looking good! What type of wood did you use for the body / neck? Do you then cover the wood dye with something else, i.e. poly? I’m not Rabs but he didn’t use any stain. That is Birchwood Casey tru oil which Rabs uses as the finish, ie no additional clear coat Any clear coat will darken the color like Rabs has shown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle fester Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 I’m not Rabs but he didn’t use any stain. That is Birchwood Casey tru oil which Rabs uses as the finish, ie no additional clear coat Any clear coat will darken the color like Rabs has shown Makes sense, thank you. I thought the can indicated it was a colored stain. I use tung oil on most of my stuff, many coats makes it shiny and special. Here's a 3 string (fretless) CBG I made (maple w/ mahogany), not great pics to tell how shiny and smooth it is, but the finish on the neck is beautiful... and 3 string slide is fun to play. With everyone's help, I'm hoping to figure out how to go from here to a complete guitar. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 I’m not Rabs but he didn’t use any stain. That is Birchwood Casey tru oil which Rabs uses as the finish, ie no additional clear coat Any clear coat will darken the color like Rabs has shown Yes, if you look at the pics above I did use a stain for the neck as the wood was a bit lighter and I was trying to colour match a bit (or it would annoy the hell out of me :) ) But yes.. Just tru oil on the body, no stain at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Looking good! What type of wood did you use for the body / neck? Do you then cover the wood dye with something else, i.e. poly? The body is a solid slab of African Walnut and the neck.. Hmm, its some kind of African Mahogany like Meranti or Sapele.. Not quite sure any more, I got the wood so long ago now :) And yes as Dub says, just a Tru Oil finish.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle fester Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Step 1: Plan the build Step 2: Build any special tools (you can) that are needed to do the job. Will still need a fret saw and radius gage, and probably another thing or two - but if my ideas for home made tools work, i'm well on my way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle fester Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Yes, if you look at the pics above I did use a stain for the neck as the wood was a bit lighter and I was trying to colour match a bit (or it would annoy the hell out of me :) ) When you use stain on the neck, do you then go over it with multiple coats of the Tru oil? Rgds - billroy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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