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Independent to Treble Bleed...what was I thinking?


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So when I got my new Classic a couple months ago, 1st thing I did was re-wire as independent volume controls. I had done this to other LPs in the past, w/o knowing the tonal downside. Luckily after playing alongside a couple other new guitars (gretsch 6128 & Am Pro Strat), I realized just how dark the LP was (yech!). I also usually play at home at like 4-5 at home (which I soon found out also didn't help).


After searching on-line - didn't take long to read how much trebles are lost w/independent wiring...duh! how did I miss that so often?!?


So rewired back to modern, & much better over all - whew - I like my LP again! :)


BUT still darker when volume rolled off...huh - next up to try - treble bleed! Which I learned/knew is stock on the Strat and Gretsch.


Well it seems everyone has their favorite values and configurations - Kinman/Duncan/Fender/etc. etc.


I started with .0018cap in parallel with 150K resistor (on Vol pot lugs)...definitely an improvement - but seemed louder, and maybe a bit too bright. Didn't note any problem with 500K pot tapers.


After more research, finally settled on trying a .0012cap Parallel with 150K resistor in series with a 20K resistor.


I went with that due to various opinions: I had .0012 trop fish cap, this research/chart showing .001/150K curve and how well it matches stock at full volume (but louder - as I had noted, which I hope the 20K solves), plus Fender's take (.0012para/220k series w/20K), plus TV Jones take (.002 para/150K vs 500K pots).





That combo seems fine and better overall for brightness and volume, w/no taper issues, so will go with that.


Any comments/opinions?

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Thanks Chris,


Nothing fancy - it’s just like this Fender scheme with a 150k value parallel resistor and 20k series.


Put the same bleed on both volume pots between switch lug and PUP lug.







Sounds like the Fender engr. uses the 20K to tweak as needed.

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This link you posted pretty much explains what the parts of this circuit are intended to achieve... Not too much to comment here. The 20k is most likely used to attenuate the "bleed" frequencies as the 20k and 150k are in series at low frequencies. These series resistors act as voltage divider. Now, the Cap acts as short to high frequencies where the resistors (150k and potentiometer in parallel) allow slight amounts of the lower frequency components of the signal to pass as well. I would keep this part of the modification in mind, but I would start out with this 20k removed and apply experimentally to find a good sound. I also would not want a R in parallel that is greater than the pot's resistance. As article states that the larger this gets in resistance, the less effect it will have. That's because the equivalent (parallel circuit) resistance will never be higher than the lower resistor in the pair.

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