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Mallory 4 position Dial Switch Plate


LouieLouieOhOh

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I have been looking for a Mallory Switch plate for years. I found this one on eBay ... Here ... $225 ... O Boy. Needless to say it made me look into building a cheaper replica ... I found the dimensions on another site and duplicated it (without the "Mallory U.S.A." or "374") using a CAD drawing. I'm having a local shop make me a test copy next week. Instead of using aluminum plate painted black and painted with white, we're going to try laser cutting/etching a two ply polymer (black on white). The numbers will be embossed though the black layer showing the white beneath. It will be a little thicker than the original (a shade under .060 thick versus the original is about .025) and it will have a white edge (under the black). We haven't decided whether or not to add a straight, beveled or rounded outer edge.

 

Looking for input. I'll post a picture of the test plate sometime in the next week or so.

 

Here is a photo of the original ... Mallory_374_Dial_Plate.jpg

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Picked up the "first" sample today ...

 

 

post-27371-059494000 1511232764_thumb.jpg

 

post-27371-022856900 1511233302_thumb.jpg

 

My thoughts ...

1) Center hole to big (sloppy around switch thread).

2) Outer Diameter edge is rough (needs to be polished smooth)

3) 1,2,3,4 text each need to be larger (maybe bold)

4) Sample made on "buffed black". Need to switch to "gloss black".

 

I intentionally left off the "Mallory U.S.A. 374" text so as not to infringe on the company rights.

I thought a beveled or radius edge may look trick.

 

Please provide feedback ... I would appreciate it!

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I'll post a photo from my EB-3 for comparison. I recently retired after 25 years of making prototypes on an industrial laser. Cutting plastic such as that, you do get a raised burr that needs to be carefully filed or sanded off. The lines on the edge likely correspond with whatever frequency & feed rate the laser was cutting at. In your case, filing too much could expose a white bevel or even run into the letters. As far as using gloss black, the original anodized aluminum isn't really shiny.

 

n2XsK1xm.jpg

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Thanks Grog! That's a perfect picture!

 

They did say they had a matte black as well.

I will move the numbers ever so slightly away from the edge to allow for smoothing/sanding of the edges.

Yes, the edge is white ... with your experience, is there a way to make it black? Or should I leave it alone? I'd like to have it black on my Ripper but I'm not sure how to do it.

 

I'm assuming your dial plate is an original ... Am I correct?

 

I'll post a photo from my EB-3 for comparison. I recently retired after 25 years of making prototypes on an industrial laser. Cutting plastic such as that, you do get a raised burr that needs to be carefully filed or sanded off. The lines on the edge likely correspond with whatever frequency & feed rate the laser was cutting at. In your case, filing too much could expose a white bevel or even run into the letters. As far as using gloss black, the original anodized aluminum isn't really shiny.

 

n2XsK1xm.jpg

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Just talked to the shop ... they ran another test ...

The laser was cutting at the center-line thus cutting a path of the circles (OD and ID) which made the center hole bigger and the outer diameter slightly smaller (1/32"). May not seam like a lot but with an object this small appearances are everthing.

 

They have made the adjustments and are making me ten.

Yes Grog ... they did say the laser makes a circle with small tangent lines and therefore creates a "rough" looking edge. It can be sanded smooth.

 

If I wanted a black edge, their advice was was NOT to sand the edges but remove the small burrs and "paint the edge" with black finger nail polish. They said they have used this technique with success. I am not sure it will hold up over time ... at least the way I thump on mine.

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If they programed the part with cutter-comp, they could move the laser on one side of the line or the other with whatever value they wanted. I would try using a permanent black Sharpe Marker on the edges, whatever works.

 

My dial plate is original.................

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I'd add more pictures of the recent test but I've maxed out my "quota" of 500k?

Can an Admin up this quota?

 

I've been using "Imgur" to post photos on forums since Photobucket started charging $299.00 a year. Imgur is still free to join.

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Thanks Grog ... they did move the cutter position to get the correct outer dimension. They made the hole a little too small but it can be reamed out a little.

 

I did try an earlier test sample with magic marker ... two feet away and you can't tell.

See the Picture at " Talk Bass ".

As for images ... I have my own server. Goes down every once in a while but ... hey, its free.

 

Thanks for the help guys!

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