Gibson B45-12N Adjustable Saddle Replacement

[merseybeat1963 25]

Hi guys..

I have a 1966 Gibson B45-12N 12 String Guitar with Trapeze that needs a replacement for its dark plastic adjustable Bridge.

The high E has gone down where there is no clearance front and back and the last supporting wall/surround at the end has gone.

So the high E strings sound is not clear especially as I go up past the 12th Fret.

 

Is there a nice simple ready made Bone piece that can go right in to improve things?

Adjustable feature ok with me.

I asked Stewart McDonald and they dont have anything ??

Any of you guys replaced that on yours?

Thanks

Edited February 2, 2018 by merseybeat1963

[ksdaddy 546]

I bought one on ebay a month ago. I see they're out of stock now, but I would assume they will get some in at some point or maybe someone else has them. Very good replacement. Made in Japan. You will have to notch it to your liking but that's easy enough.

 

The ebay seller I bought this one from is named allsoundstore.

 

[aliasphobias 14]

I know Philadelphia Luthier Supply carries the Tusq version but they are hit and miss with bone. Worth a try!? Good luck!

[merseybeat1963 25]

I know Philadelphia Luthier Supply carries the Tusq version but they are hit and miss with bone. Worth a try!? Good luck!

 

Thanks.

Does a Bone version even exist?

[merseybeat1963 25]

The Adjustable Saddle on the 1966 B45-12N is the same as the ones in the J-160..yes?

Thanks

[merseybeat1963 25]

I just ordered it..thanks again : )

[merseybeat1963 25]

Got it..now how does one install it ?

Any advise..thanks

[aliasphobias 14]

Remove old, a few turns each side, alternately. Using calipers or a crescent wrench as a go/no go gauge sand to thickness and reinstall.

Btw I would not notch the saddle, only asking for increased tuning problems. The strings will create there own mini notches in short order.

You're welcome to message me back channel if more specific or detailed info is required.

Edited February 13, 2018 by aliasphobias

[merseybeat1963 25]

Remove old, a few turns each side, alternately. Using calipers or a crescent wrench as a go/no go gauge sand to thickness and reinstall.

Btw I would not notch the saddle, only asking for increased tuning problems. The strings will create there own mini notches in short order.

You're welcome to message me back channel if more specific or detailed info is required.

 

Hi Allas..Thank you.

So to get old one out is just a matter of unscrewing the two Flatheads on each end..yes?

Unscrewing all the way or just retracting them?

Many Thanks

Nick

[aliasphobias 14]

No harm in taking them out all of the way. If the saddle frees enough for removal before them just as good.

[j45nick 460]

Hi Allas..Thank you.

So to get old one out is just a matter of unscrewing the two Flatheads on each end..yes?

Unscrewing all the way or just retracting them?

Many Thanks

Nick

 

The two slotted machine screws used to adjust saddle height just screw into threaded bushings let into the top of the guitar. These bushings are effectively barrel bolts shaped like an inverted top hat that are secured on the underside of the bridgeplate with fairly large nuts. You can screw the slot-head adjustment screws out without a problem.

 

Usually, the saddle can be removed when you screw the height adjustment machine scrws out far enough that the saddle is vertically clear of the bridge. The process will be pretty obvious when you start backing out the adjustment screws.

[OldCowboy 124]

Beware the tendency to get over enthusiastic when removing/installing the new saddle - I've seen some of them that have broken off at the ends from being forced. Won't much matter with the original, but you likely want to keep the new one intact. Not a huge job - just take your time until you get the hang of it.