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Pinch

E standard to C or D standard

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Hello all. Two questions.

 

If I go from E standard, 9-46 strings, to C or D standard, 11—49 or 11-52, would I need to tighten or loosen the TR?

 

The dimension of the string slots, according to specs, are 0.058, 0.048 and so on. I'm guessing that means I won't have to file the nut slots to accommodate the new string gauge... or am I missing something?

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Hello all. Two questions.

 

If I go from E standard, 9-46 strings, to C or D standard, 11—49 or 11-52, would I need to tighten or loosen the TR?

 

The dimension of the string slots, according to specs, are 0.058, 0.048 and so on. I'm guessing that means I won't have to file the nut slots to accommodate the new string gauge... or am I missing something?

 

You are putting heavier Guage strings on, which would mean if you left the Guitar tuned @ E STANDARD you would have to slacken the Truss-Rod to keep the same NECK relief. BUT, since you are adding Heavier Gauge strings and Down-Tuning at the same time....THAT IS A VERY GOOD QUESTION. I am going to say that you will be able to leave the Truss Rod alone if you Down Tune to 'D' (D-A-D-F#-A-D, yes?) and if you drop down to Open 'C' and even though you are using the heavier gauge strings (11-49) that you will have to tighten the TR just a li'l bit....although IDK and offer only a somewhat educated logical Guess really.

 

I would like to know what you actually end up having to do on this one.....

Edited by Wild Bill 212

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Thanks, guys. Also curious if I need to file the slots in the nut. I wonder if "dimension of string slots" are the dimension of the slots in the nut or if it refers to the bridge slots?

 

Guess I'll have to try and see.

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I moved my Les Paul from 10's (46) to 11's (48)

 

Still play in standard tuning.

Never had to adjust guitar

 

Yes, but I'm going to tune down as well, so the string tension calculator came in handy! Hopefully the strings will fit in the nut.

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Make the string change and then check intonation to see how much it has changed if at all.

 

My FB came with 0.10s and I put hybrids on it. No changes needed.

 

Um, I was wondering about the truss rod, not intonation... Of course I won't adjust intonation before I actually change the strings. You can't really set intonation for new strings before you actually put them on, can you?

Edited by Pinch

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10-52 fit fine in the nut, but the light top was a tad floppy. I'll try 11-52s, should have a more uniform feel. I loosened the TR a quarter-turn, relief is fine. Sweet.

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10-52 fit fine in the nut, but the light top was a tad floppy. I'll try 11-52s, should have a more uniform feel. I loosened the TR a quarter-turn, relief is fine. Sweet.

 

Let us know how it sounds. Are you doing this on your V? I put 11s on an explorer and put it in D with the occasional drop C and it is perfect for when I am feeling some Amon Amarth come on.

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Let us know how it sounds. Are you doing this on your V? I put 11s on an explorer and put it in D with the occasional drop C and it is perfect for when I am feeling some Amon Amarth come on.

 

Yup, the V. 10-52s sound good on the bass side. Will put 11-52s on it tomorrow. The 10, 13 and 17 from the 10-52 don't feel quite right, and the treble strings sound weak compared to the bass side. I think 11-52s will be just right!

 

But damn, the low E feels thick. I think I'd have problems with any gauge thicker than that!

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Yup, the V. 10-52s sound good on the bass side. Will put 11-52s on it tomorrow. The 10, 13 and 17 from the 10-52 don't feel quite right, and the treble strings sound weak compared to the bass side. I think 11-52s will be just right!

 

But damn, the low E feels thick. I think I'd have problems with any gauge thicker than that!

 

You should get a really nice growl with the he 11-52 set, especially with the dirty fingers in the V.

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Um, I was wondering about the truss rod, not intonation... Of course I won't adjust intonation before I actually change the strings. You can't really set intonation for new strings before you actually put them on, can you?

Then if there is buzz, you will address relief.

This is not rocket science. you are over thinking it.

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Then if there is buzz, you will address relief.

This is not rocket science. you are over thinking it.

 

Nah. If a new tuning and string gauge changes the string tension on the neck, and you want the same amount of relief as before, you likely have to tweak the truss rod that counteracts the string tension. I'm not talking about fret buzz, I'm talking about my preferred amount of relief to make the guitar comfortable to play for me.

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You should get a really nice growl with the he 11-52 set, especially with the dirty fingers in the V.

 

Yep! Certainly sounds warmer!

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As I have been saying, you need to work on the items in a certain order.

 

1) neck relief

2) string height

3) intonation

 

1 and 3 probably need adjustment for string gauge change, but it wouldn't hurt to check the string height if you haven't done this. Some people say to wing it and adjust to personal comfort, but I go by Gibson spec. The way I look at it (for a vast majority of things in life I buy), is the manufacturer intended to make something a certain way, so I obey their specifications. Unless you absolutely know what you are doing, it is my principle to listen to the manufacturer. My experience with Gibson guitars - and I have set up quite a few of them - is if you set up according to spec given no neck twists or fret "unlevelness", you won't be sorry.

 

Only other thing to look out for as mentioned by you is fret slot width - probably not depth so much. Although, you simply want to have the strings not buried in the slots where they will bind up.

 

I've tweaked the TR, string height is fine, and I've obviously adjusted the intonation.

 

The string slots are fine with the new string gauge, thankfully. But I think 52-11 is as thick as I can go without issues. Which is fine, because I doubt I'd be comfortable with, say, 12-56!

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It's funny, I usually like a fair amount of relief in a neck, but the V just feels and plays better with a straight neck. The fretwork must be excellent. I add a little relief "just because", and it just doesn't feel as good and I go back to practically zero relief, where I can hear the string touching the fret when I tap it while doing the capo thing, but can't really see it.

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Nope, but it looks pretty cool if you change tunings in a set! Problem is it won't affect the truss rod to compensate for extra tension or less tension.

 

Hi Pinch,

 

I think you are worried too much about the truss rod and tunings and such. Have you tried de-tuning and observed some result unfavorably? Do you have knowledge how to adjust your relief - and have tools if you do have the insight how-to? I mean, obvious stuff here as you have stated - tension changes with different gauge strings and/or tuning changes. Simply make measurements and adjust if necessary. I have iterated several times in this thread the steps to take to do a basic set up on a guitar - pretty much what you can find online as well. I am not full of it... I am only trying to be very concise and straightforward as to provide you with peace of mind by saying what I am saying with conviction. Hopefully you can find value in my input. I wouldn't spend time writing this if I didn't give a S.

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Hi Pinch,

 

I think you are worried too much about the truss rod and tunings and such. Have you tried de-tuning and observed some result unfavorably? Do you have knowledge how to adjust your relief - and have tools if you do have the insight how-to? I mean, obvious stuff here as you have stated - tension changes with different gauge strings and/or tuning changes. Simply make measurements and adjust if necessary. I have iterated several times in this thread the steps to take to do a basic set up on a guitar - pretty much what you can find online as well. I am not full of it... I am only trying to be very concise and straightforward as to provide you with peace of mind by saying what I am saying with conviction. Hopefully you can find value in my input. I wouldn't spend time writing this if I didn't give a S.

 

Nah, no worries here. I just make adjustments if I add or remove string tension.

I do have the knowledge, the tools, the insight and the experience. I've set up many a guitar. Thanks anyway ;)

 

The guitar plays great with 11-52s in D standard and drop C. Most people would probably balk at how straight the neck is, but this particular guitar plays best with a straight neck. Which is weird, because my Tribute has lots of relief. This V just feels spongy with spec relief.

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Nah, no worries here. I just make adjustments if I add or remove string tension.

I do have the knowledge, the tools, the insight and the experience. I've set up many a guitar. Thanks anyway ;)

 

The guitar plays great with 11-52s in D standard and drop C. Most people would probably balk at how straight the neck is, but this particular guitar plays best with a straight neck. Which is weird, because my Tribute has lots of relief. This V just feels spongy with spec relief.

 

I am glad that this works for you! In would hate to give bad advice to someone in this matter. In the end, if you are not abiding by factory spec, I have no issues with this and I know that many guitars will play fine for a musician if it is comfortable for them. I usually use this as a starting point (spec) and if I so choose, I adjust from there as a "default" configuration.

 

Nonetheless, it has been said that I come off as a D when I explain, but I try to be concise and non-ambiguous in the terminology I use. And of course, I do not know you personally, and I do not know your level of experience with setups and such. Thank you for sharing with me your insights and thank you for the feedback. I have a better understanding where you are coming from.

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I am glad that this works for you! In would hate to give bad advice to someone in this matter. In the end, if you are not abiding by factory spec, I have no issues with this and I know that many guitars will play fine for a musician if it is comfortable for them. I usually use this as a starting point (spec) and if I so choose, I adjust from there as a "default" configuration.

 

Nonetheless, it has been said that I come off as a D when I explain, but I try to be concise and non-ambiguous in the terminology I use. And of course, I do not know you personally, and I do not know your level of experience with setups and such. Thank you for sharing with me your insights and thank you for the feedback. I have a better understanding where you are coming from.

 

NP dude! Hey, if nothing else, someone new to guitars might read your post and learn something from it, right?

 

Like I said before, I'm a lot like you when it comes to specs. I absolutely advocate starting with factory specs and then tweaking them if need be.

 

The V actually came set up with a pretty straight neck. It's next to perfectly straight now. Which is usually not my preference at all, but it just works with this guitar.

 

Actually, my LP Tribute is a bit weird too. I set the pickup height at factory specs - they're 490s with AlNiCo II magnets - and they were so-so at best. I lowered them, and they were just... not good. I ended up raising both of them a whole helluva lot - VERY close to the strings - and the tone is just amazing. I can back off the gain and play blues, and it just works, or I can amp up the gain and get a great Slash-in-punk-rock-mode tone.

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NP dude! Hey, if nothing else, someone new to guitars might read your post and learn something from it, right?

 

Like I said before, I'm a lot like you when it comes to specs. I absolutely advocate starting with factory specs and then tweaking them if need be.

 

The V actually came set up with a pretty straight neck. It's next to perfectly straight now. Which is usually not my preference at all, but it just works with this guitar.

 

Actually, my LP Tribute is a bit weird too. I set the pickup height at factory specs - they're 490s with AlNiCo II magnets - and they were so-so at best. I lowered them, and they were just... not good. I ended up raising both of them a whole helluva lot - VERY close to the strings - and the tone is just amazing. I can back off the gain and play blues, and it just works, or I can amp up the gain and get a great Slash-in-punk-rock-mode tone.

 

Excellent! It seems like our philosophical measures we take to setting up a guitar are aligned. I am not claiming to be the best or the perfect solution, but I have done a fair share amount of setups on my guitars and of course others' guitars. I only get great response from those I have helped out personally. I make sure that the person I help out is satisfied and shoot it straight to them. I don't charge money either - just parts if need be. Overall, I'm glad to hear that your guitars are something that inspire you and I wish you very happy playing.

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Excellent! It seems like our philosophical measures we take to setting up a guitar are aligned. I am not claiming to be the best or the perfect solution, but I have done a fair share amount of setups on my guitars and of course others' guitars. I only get great response from those I have helped out personally. I make sure that the person I help out is satisfied and shoot it straight to them. I don't charge money either - just parts if need be. Overall, I'm glad to hear that your guitars are something that inspire you and I wish you very happy playing.

 

Thanks. It's a bit odd that my Gibsons are anything but set up to factory specs, but they're the exception to the rule. Every other guitar I've set up for me or for friends, I've found that starting with factory specs is the way to go.

 

Well, actually, bridge and pickup height on my V I haven't touched. It was set up amazingly out of the box. Just perfect.

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