Divots

[62burst]

I've always feared the re-fret and planing process from a cost point of view. Has anyone had the complete restoration? I'd like to get a sampling of what you paid, if so.

It’s really not that bad at all- I kinda remember it being in the area of $200 something.

 

 

Yeah maybe “regular nails” have this effect when you play guitar ad much as I have played this one.

 

It’s been fun !

 

JC

Good to hear about anyone who can log that many hours on the big super jumbo. Just keep in mind that fretboard divot wear is not just cosmetic like wear in the top- the guitar will eventually start to fret sharp on you.

 

The reason I had asked earlier about checking the height of the frets themselves (from possibly a previous fret crown, for example), is because proper fret height should give a clear note without having to mash your finger or the string into the ‘board.

[blindboygrunt]

No white tips for the most part ... I’m not annoyed at all.

Guitars shouldn’t be babied in my opinion. This one sure hasn’t and I’m glad I’ve worn it down !

 

Personally Willie Nelson’s Trigger is an icon to me even if he’s beat it up over the years.My goal with this and other guitars I have is to get them “triggered out”

 

 

I’m wondering if callouses play a part in this as my old Yamaha FG has similar wear patterns and since the board is lighter in color ... It’s a bit easier to see than on the Gibson.

 

 

JC

 

 

Oh I don’t mean annoyed that my guitar was less than pristine. I’m not one for worrying about my guitar looking like it lives in a glass case. Scratches or dings etc wouldn’t lose me any sleep at all

 

Wouldn’t want to be worrying about replacing fretboard after ten years is what I was getting at

There are many guitars owned by folk on here that are way older and don’t have the issue.

I’d like , if possible , someone who knows what’s happened to chip in with knowledge for the rest of us. If it is preventable in any way

[Leonard McCoy]

I don't think it's as bad as it looks in the picture. Once all the DNA is removed and the fretboard ever slightly scraped with a sharp razor blade, there won't be any grooves left.

[JuanCarlosVejar]

I don't think it's as bad as it looks in the picture. Once all the DNA is removed and the fretboard ever slightly scraped with a sharp razor blade, there won't be any grooves left.

 

L,

 

Trust me I’ll keep posting the evolution of that guitar as time goes by.

Scratches,Dings and all else.

 

As a fellow Cat Stevens fan I often think about how “nonchalant” he was about his instruments back when he decided to leave music and auctioned everything. It appears now he is very attached to his Everly Bros .

 

So reflecting on that I cherish my Gibsons knowing that they allow me to play the songs I love....And I am thankful for the opportunity of playing these wonderful guitars

 

 

 

 

 

JC

[drathbun]

IMO fretboard divots are "character". Fret divots need attention when notes start to buzz. A level and crown might be all that you need at this point. Once a level and crown is done, then next time probably requires a refret. At no time in that process are fretboard divots required. It is just a matter of your own personal comfort.

 

If you find you dislike the feeling of the divots, they can be filled and levelled or the entire fretboard can be levelled during a refret. When I refretted my 1968 Yamaha FG150, I levelled the fretboard but left some of the divots as "character".

 

Rosewood boards are the most susceptible to this kind of wear. Ebony and maple not so much. I'm glad my SJ200 is ebony. I also like the smoother feel of ebony under my fingertips.

 

My personal opinion is to leave the divots alone and treat the frets if and when necessary.

 

Beautiful guitar nonetheless.

 

Here is me levelling my Yamaha fretboard (you can see at the very bottom that I left some of the divots):

 

[E-minor7]

It's fairly common to plane the fretboard when doing a re-fret; not only will the notes fret more true, but the 'board looks better, and the inlays really "pop" once again against the rosewood.

 

I've had it done with a couple of oldies, here's the '45 maple with the Nick inlays:

 

Just wonder how well the MOP or abalone inlays keep up their smooth shiny surface after bein' sanded or scraped down to level.

[62burst]

Just wonder how well the MOP or abalone inlays keep up their smooth shiny surface after bein' sanded or scraped down to level.

They LOVE it. MOP much harder than rosewood. An ebony fingerboard would probably show much less wear for Juan Carlos- there's a reason it's chosen for stringed instruments that don't have frets. . . much more dense than the rose'.

 

JCV- you have the Elvis C Century of Progress listed in your sig- I've always wondered how well the fretboards hold up on those pearloid 'boards(?)

 

[Murph]

 

Rosewood boards are the most susceptible to this kind of wear. Ebony and maple not so much. I'm glad my SJ200 is ebony.

 

My J-45 is also ebony board. Rosewood back and sides. I love the ebony.

 

My J-15 has a walnut board. I'm curious how it's going to look in a few years because I'm playing the snot out of it. Literally several hours per day. That's one of the reasons I got it was to take the "practice/noodle/workout" hours away from the J-45 because it's getting up in years and I didn't want to speed up it's need for a fret job just noodling.

 

I like the walnut, but am curious what a few hard years will do to it. I don't know of any examples.

[JuanCarlosVejar]

IMO fretboard divots are "character". Fret divots need attention when notes start to buzz. A level and crown might be all that you need at this point. Once a level and crown is done, then next time probably requires a refret. At no time in that process are fretboard divots required. It is just a matter of your own personal comfort.

 

If you find you dislike the feeling of the divots, they can be filled and levelled or the entire fretboard can be levelled during a refret. When I refretted my 1969 Yamaha FG150, I levelled the fretboard but left some of the divots as "character".

 

Rosewood boards are the most susceptible to this kind of wear. Ebony and maple not so much. I'm glad my SJ200 is ebony. I also like the smoother feel of ebony under my fingertips.

 

My personal opinion is to leave the divots alone and treat the frets if and when necessary.

 

Beautiful guitar nonetheless.

 

Here is me levelling my Yamaha fretboard (you can see at the very bottom that I left some of the divots):

 

 

Doug,

 

I agree with you that divots are “character” so for now I’ll just keep an eye out to see how this continues .

 

Nice Yamaha and thanks for sharing.Was that the guitar of your youth?

 

I feel for me Ebony offers a bit too much resistance .

Rosewood is easier to get around for me at least.

 

 

 

JC

[JuanCarlosVejar]

They LOVE it. MOP much harder than rosewood. An ebony fingerboard would probably show much less wear for Juan Carlos- there's a reason it's chosen for stringed instruments that don't have frets. . . much more dense than the rose'.

 

JCV- you have the Elvis C Century of Progress listed in your sig- I've always wondered how well the fretboards hold up on those pearloid 'boards(?)

 

 

It’s a beautiful guitar and plays like a dream.

The Mother of Toilet Seat I hope will slow down the “divoting” process .

The one I have is an Elvis Costello signature edition and I can’t say enough about what a great sound it has .

 

 

 

JC

[drathbun]

Doug,

 

I agree with you that divots are “character” so for now I’ll just keep an eye out to see how this continues .

 

Nice Yamaha and thanks for sharing.Was that the guitar of your youth?

 

I feel for me Ebony offers a bit too much resistance .

Rosewood is easier to get around for me at least.

 

JC

 

The '68 Yamaha FG150 Red Label is a replacement for the guitar of my youth. My first acoustic guitar was a 1970 Yamaha FG140 Red Label, brand new. I got it on my 14th birthday. Seven years later, I traded it for a brand new '77 Gibson Hummingbird. That bird was a first class POS.

 

Years later I searched the internet for a Red Label like it. I found the FG150 in Vancouver. It was totally beaten up. My wife calls it the "hippie guitar". I think I paid $150 for it. I did a neck reset, reshaped the neck, made a new bone nut and bone saddle and put in new Grover Sta-tites and rosewood pins. It sits in Nashville tuning right now but is a perfect campfire guitar.

[BigKahune]

If you’re one to use a lot of fretting pressure, divots can become a bit of is problem for staying in tune - the deeper the divot, the sharper the note. 😎

 

.

[j45nick]

If you’re one to use a lot of fretting pressure, divots can become a bit of is problem for staying in tune - the deeper the divot, the sharper the note. 😎

 

.

 

 

For sure, and it can get noticeable. Plays havoc with intonation if they get really deep