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Sputnik1012

Need guidance on how to re-paint/ stain Epiphone Casino Coupe.

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In the photos below I have the standard epiphone casino coupe (MIC) I sanded our the layer of what I assume is Poly/gloss. Although I enjoy the original finish I want to get something a little more warm, like the Peerless Epiphone Casino Coupe (MIK) Would anyone know the best supplies and instruction to get it to look just like the (MIK) guitar?
 

Related imageimage.jpeg.b3d2cc3dd3c23e41ae5ac5288a10322d.jpegImage result for peerless epiphone casino

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1 hour ago, kidblast said:

Do I read this right?  you have already removed the finish?

 

 

Yes, I Sanded off the Layer of gloss/poly. It still has a layer with depth  if you look extremely close, it still has depth to it. (Assuming since that it is Maple Laminated). But the gloss that was on there is gone. Do I need to sand further to stain?

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2 hours ago, kidblast said:

Do I read this right?  you have already removed the finish?

 

 

The photo of the natural finish, is an example of what it looked like before, I do not have a cable to upload photos from phone to PC, online upload through phone wont work... sorry.

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14 hours ago, Sputnik1012 said:

Not sure since the color is labeled as “natural” I sanded it down to where it feels like wood, no more gloss, and looks like the same thing just with out shine.

my hunch is you have just dulled the finish.  If it was me, I would have left it alone. 

In my (very) humble opinion; Unless you know exactly what you're doing, you're jumping in the deep end of the pool with out having  the ability to swim first.

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16 hours ago, Sputnik1012 said:

Not sure since the color is labeled as “natural” I sanded it down to where it feels like wood, no more gloss, and looks like the same thing just with out shine.

 

It's just a clear poly, on top of the natural wood, the colour is the natural colour of the maple.

As has already been said be VERY careful sanding. The poly is thick on these it takes a lot to get through but very little to go too far.

If your dead set on carrying on yourself I suggest using a tinted clear to darken or 'age' the finish.

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I'm doing exactly the same to my Epiphone casino coupe, but mine is in red, I didn't like the Shine of it, it made the red to flashy and not to my likes. 

I've sande with 1500 grit paper first and then with 2000 grit paper, it's an easy job you need to go light on the strenght, and use water and it works fine. I do this to a lot of my guitars, 

but I don't paint it later, I'll leave the red in matte, it got a little darker in the tone. Since I will not paint it later i don't sand to remove the paint I sand to remove the gloss. 

 

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On 10/23/2019 at 5:19 PM, Rodrigo R. said:

I'm doing exactly the same to my Epiphone casino coupe, but mine is in red, I didn't like the Shine of it, it made the red to flashy and not to my likes. 

I've sande with 1500 grit paper first and then with 2000 grit paper, it's an easy job you need to go light on the strenght, and use water and it works fine. I do this to a lot of my guitars, 

but I don't paint it later, I'll leave the red in matte, it got a little darker in the tone. Since I will not paint it later i don't sand to remove the paint I sand to remove the gloss. 

 

Do you have any pictures on what this looks like? I’m currently in the process of refinishing 1 of my casinos (I’ve done this before also) but my other cherry red one i want to keep the colour but give it a matte look much like you, would be interested to see the results. Thanks

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Trust me, I learned the hard way that it’s nearly  impossible to sand off the finish to the point where the guitar can be stained without going through the Maple layer in spots because the clear poly actually has soaked into the Maple layer, essentially making the stainable layer paper thin.   If ANY poly remains it will not take stain, and you’ll get a splotchy look.  But if you keep sanding,  you’ll almost certainly sand through in spots (especially on curved areas on arch tops) and not even notice it until you apply the stain.  The spots you sanded through will suddenly show up as dark splotches.  The only thing you can do when that happens is to paint it with a solid color.   That’s how I got my gold top Wildkat!   

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59 minutes ago, Yorgle said:

Trust me, I learned the hard way that it’s nearly  impossible to sand off the finish to the point where the guitar can be stained without going through the Maple layer in spots because the clear poly actually has soaked into the Maple layer, essentially making the stainable layer paper thin.   If ANY poly remains it will not take stain, and you’ll get a splotchy look.  But if you keep sanding,  you’ll almost certainly sand through in spots (especially on curved areas on arch tops) and not even notice it until you apply the stain.  The spots you sanded through will suddenly show up as dark splotches.  The only thing you can do when that happens is to paint it with a solid color.   That’s how I got my gold top Wildkat!   

I have previous with casino’s and sanding, been there and it takes time to get it right. The one I’ve sanded had an imperfection On the finish so it’s no issue for me and any over sanding I can live with to be honest, I call it character. I’ve sanded a cherry one down to a natural in the past, one I wish I’d never got rid of to be honest and the slight over sanding made it unique, wish I could track it down to be honest.

My other Casino in Cherry that I have now, I don’t want to remove the cherry stain at all, I want to wet sand to dull the poly finish, I don’t like the sticky tacky feel on the neck either not do I like the shiny finish. I was going to steel wool it with a very fine steel wool but I think wet sand with a 1500 would be easier, that’s why I asked the question.

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