Capo for Yamaha FS100C acoustic guitar

[AbdulMateen]

I have a Yamaha FS100C acoustic guitar.

In website it says Fingerboard Radius: R400mm (15 3/4") what does it mean I can't understand as I am a beginner.

I want to get a capo for it, so i want to know if it has a flat fretboard/fingerboard or radiused fretboard/fingerboard.

I bought Daddario NS Artist Capo but D string buzzes a lot even if capo tension is increased somewhat (standard tunning).

To check capo pressure i am picking strings downwards just exactly as how we do when tuning a guitar and D string buzzes a lot.

I don't want to keep high tension on the strings by tightening the capo a lot as it would defeat the purpose of getting an somewhat expensive capo with screw adjustment for tension too.

I am using Gibson light 11 - 52 gauge strings on the guitar after i tried to make the capo work with a little tension adjustment in the screw had no luck, and strings got out of tune after some trials.

I have been looking in between NS Artist Capo & Tri-Action Capo from Daddario.

Please help, I can return NS Artist Capo and get Tri-Action Capo if its more appropriate for acoustic guitars and for my Yamaha FS100C.

Thanks

[uncle fester]

I don't know anything about Yamaha guitars, but I use a basic Kyser capo that works on several of my guitars without a problem.  I'd start there, and if you still have a problem go to the place you bought the guitar or find a good luthier and have a proper set up and investigation into the problem done.

[fortyearspickn]

Welcome Aboard!     Gibson's tend to be 12'' radius and 15'' isn't really that far off. Most here use 'generic' capos like Kyser which is a great one.  It has a radius, but not 15".  G7 is another good one and it has more of a radius than the Kyser - looks close to the 12" I have on my Thalia, which comes with a half dozen different radius pads you can choose from. If your capo is flat (put it up against a straight edge ruler),  AND if fretting with your finger doesn't result in buzzing - it's likely your capo.  I'm not familiar with the D' Addarios capos.  

Conversely, if you go to your music store and try a G7 and your guitar still buzzes - it's highly likely it's not the capo.  And, of course at home - if you fret the D string with finger on the same fret  that the  capo causes buzzing, and it buzzes, it's more proof that it's the guitar. Maybe a nut slot a little too deep.   G'Luck!

[Dave F]

Martin's standard radius is 16" which is real close.

There's a many new capos out there that have a specified radius or interchangeable pads. I recently got one from Thalia. 

Before going that more expensive route, be sure you are using the capo correctly.

Here's a video of Tommy Emmanuel giving his spin on it.

Good look. 

 

 

[dhanners623]

You can't go wrong with a Shubb.

I know some folks swear by their Kysers, but their one-spring-size-fits-all approach is outdated. Plus, they're just butt-ugly.

[MorrisrownSal]

I use capos a lot. Some of my capos work better on my Martin 16” radius, some on my Gibson 12” radius.

the capo that does the best regardless of guitar is the standard G7 capo.

[Sgt. Pepper]

I got a Kyser and Shubb. Both are good. 

[GloopyJon]

The fingerboard radius is the measure of the arc of the fingerboard across its width. You don’t have to look too closely at most electric guitar and bass fingerboards to see that few if any of them are truly flat; most of them have a slight convex curvature across their width. The fingerboard radius is the measure of that curvature.

 

Edited February 4, 2020 by ksdaddy
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