JBee Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 May be a noob question. I have a 2017 J-45 Walnut AG (Anat Garde) ...and love it! However, I am minded to remove the under-saddle pickup and will have to replace the saddle. Since the fretboard (12" radius on most J-45's) on this model has the flatter 16" fretboard radius on this model, can I use the standard J-45 replacement bridge (eyeing the Graph Tech, tusq)? ...OR do I have to find a specific saddle to fit this particular model and radius? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedzep Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 For myself I'd try both ways. 16" is quite flat so the feel might be noticeable when you compare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 I believe many Martins have a 16" fretboard radius, so you may just want to buy a Martin saddle, it if fits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave F Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Just now, j45nick said: I believe many Martins have a 16" fretboard radius, so you may just want to buy a Martin saddle, it if fits. They're thinner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBee Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 3 hours ago, Dave F said: They're thinner. Interesting. I am wondering if Gibson uses the same saddle in the Avant Guarde as the regular J-45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buc McMaster Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Don't be so sure you'll need to replace the saddle. I've removed the element from many an under-saddle pickup system and not had to get a new saddle. If removal does cause significant action issues I'd try the Colosi saddle shims before anything else. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbpark Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Not ideal, but you could also just shim the stock saddle with a piece of rosewood. Bob Colosi sells a rosewood shim kit with various size shims, superglue and razor blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Or, You could just get Bob Colosi to make you a new saddle with the length, thickness, height, and top radius you want. He does it all day long, and it isn't expensive. You can also just make a tracing if what you have, and send it to him, telling him how much taller you want it. Easy peasy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Got a file or some sandpaper? Saddle blanks are cheap (StewMac is my go to). It will take but a few minutes to shape a bone saddle blank to the radius of your fingerboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedzep Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 I would do it that way too, with bone, but never compensated. I think JB's might be, so he might not be comfortable with intonation variables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbpark Posted February 19, 2021 Share Posted February 19, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, jt said: Got a file or some sandpaper? Saddle blanks are cheap (StewMac is my go to). It will take but a few minutes to shape a bone saddle blank to the radius of your fingerboard. I'm going to disagree here. If you've never made a saddle from a bone blank there's a learning curve and a trial and error. You're going to mess up several saddles (and even more nuts when you start learning how to make those). At first it's going to cost you more that it wold to have a pro do it, especially if you don't have the right tools (files, small saw for rough cutting blanks, small vice, different grits of sandpaper, polishing compound or steel wool, etc). But if its something you want to learn how to do it's well worth it. For a one-off/one-time thing it's not worth it and you'd be better served having a shop make you one. Edited February 19, 2021 by sbpark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBee Posted February 20, 2021 Author Share Posted February 20, 2021 Thanks for the input everyone! helps a lot. It seems the safest route is to have Bob Colosi make one to fit. One day, when there is time to learn something new, perhaps I'll whittle my own saddles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 12 hours ago, JBee said: Thanks for the input everyone! helps a lot. It seems the safest route is to have Bob Colosi make one to fit. One day, when there is time to learn something new, perhaps I'll whittle my own saddles. Do consider making your own somewhere down the road. SteMac sells bone saddle blanks for $7.84, so the investment is modest. Filing/sanding them down is not rocket science. Plus, once you're comfortable getting the radius right, you can custom intonate your saddle. Here's the intonation I did last week on the saddle of my "new" 1942 LG-2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbpark Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 (edited) I guess I'm a moron because I really don[t think it's that easy to get it right. Contrary to what others have said, there's more to it than jsut buying a bone blank and some sandpaper. But then again, I'm probably a bit slower to learn and am a bit hard on myself and don't want the work I do on my own guitars to look like a home-brew, hack job. With that said, here are some pics of saddles made for an Advanced Jumbo I sued to own. Took several tries and quite a bit of trial and error and time to get to this point. Also, slotted saddles tend to be a bit tougher to make given that you can't just sand them from the bottom you adjust the action. You have to sand from the top while still maintaining the proper radius. [img]https://i.imgur.com/9QeOcNy.jpg?3[/img] [img]https://i.imgur.com/haMcH17.jpg?2[/img] [img]https://i.imgur.com/lvE9tVe.jpg?3[/img] Edited February 20, 2021 by sbpark 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 Well, if you don't think that you're capable of sanding a bone blank to match the radius of your fingerboard, for $16.37, StewMac will sell you a bone saddle sanded to match the Gibson fingerboard. But, I've no interest in arguing the issue. We love our Gibsons, regardless of whether we carve our saddles. 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave F Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 I enjoy making saddles. I’m have a few tools that help. I have it down to a science. I measure the string height with the old saddle, measure the saddle on the end string locations and make the new saddle with the adjustment. Works every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoSoxBiker Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 I've ruined 1 saddle and I think maybe 4-5 nuts. The nuts <angered me so> after the first couple. They were cheap, though. 6 chances to run the nut slot too low. 6 chances to mess up the back filing. I'll turn those odds into self fulfilling prophesies more often than not. The lone Colosi saddle I ruined was bad math strategy. I found my notes. Math was right. I still don't know what happened. The Colosi Rosewood strip kit I already had made it useble until Winter hit. Everyone's correct, so far, in as much as it's a personal preference thing. Also some pretty good advice already laid down as far as if it's even going to be needed after removing the UST. Costs? It was about $30-ish for the nuts altogether and another $30 on the Colosi Saddle. I spent more money on tools. Just this past weekend I spent even more money on tools to help safeguard the nut depth mishaps and another to help ensure the flattest bottoms possible on the nut and saddle. Financially unsound as it will never pay for itself, but I will save time and aggravation. Coordination on things that are not binary in nature is not my strong suit. Besides, these tools can be sold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt. Pepper Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 If you have a saddle that fits your bridge and it is the right radius it is easy. All you do is get a flat surface (the guy I learned from went and got a small about 8x10 piece of slate from a place that does counter tops) and some about 220 grit sand paper. With the new saddle determine a number you are going to use and shave it that way that many times and flip it 180 and do the same the same number of times the other way. I use 10. And it will be fun cause you get to do it over and over till it is where you want it. At first you know with a new saddle a bunch of meat needs to come off, but as you get closer you need to remove it to your desired height. If I can do it any one can. I've done all my acoustic. A new saddle may cost you $10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt. Pepper Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 1 minute ago, Sgt. Pepper said: If you have a saddle that fits your bridge and it is the right radius it is easy. All you do is get a flat surface (the guy I learned from went and got a small about 8x10 piece of slate from a place that does counter tops) and some about 220 grit sand paper. With the new saddle determine a number you are going to use and shave it that way that many times and flip it 180 and do the same the same number of times the other way. I use 10. And it will be fun cause you get to do it over and over till it is where you want it. At first you know with a new saddle a bunch of meat needs to come off, but as you get closer you need to remove it to your desired height. If I can do it any one can. I've done all my acoustic. A new saddle may cost you $10. Of course the strings need to come on and off every time and you need to tune it and see if you like it and then repeat till done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aliasphobias Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Sounds like the op has the correct plan. But you don't have to duplicate the fb radius on the saddle top. All you are doing with the saddle is setting the action at the 12th fret. All ready made saddles are ballpark and all will require adjustment. Bob Colosi is a great go to and where I'd start, if you're not of mind or mood to make one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortyearspickn Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 23 hours ago, Sgt. Pepper said: If you have a saddle that fits your bridge and it is the right radius it is easy. All you do is get a flat surface (the guy I learned from went and got a small about 8x10 piece of slate from a place that does counter tops) and some about 220 grit sand paper. With the new saddle determine a number you are going to use and shave it that way that many times and flip it 180 and do the same the same number of times the other way. I use 10. And it will be fun cause you get to do it over and over till it is where you want it. At first you know with a new saddle a bunch of meat needs to come off, but as you get closer you need to remove it to your desired height. If I can do it any one can. I've done all my acoustic. A new saddle may cost you $10. Unless you can draw perfectly straight lines freehand - 10x, when you do this, you'll find your hand, wrist, elbow move and cause you to lean the blank piece a little side to side. So you'll find the bottom edge isn't rounded and it doesn't sit perfectly flat in the saddle slot in the bridge, even though you were sanding it on a perfectly flat surface. I build a little slotted guide to slide the blank back and forth in to make sure there's no wobbling. Whether a raw blank, or fine-tuning a Colosi saddle - something to consider. YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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