Lukef Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 Hey guys. So I picked up any first Gibson last week. Got a used 2019 LP classic for a pretty good price. I finally got around to putting fresh strings and doing a setup on it last night. I am fairly satisfied how well it is playing my only concerns is that the bridge is lowered all the way it can go on both the bass and treble side. Like I said it plays fine but I just don’t like the idea of not having and adjustment left in the action. Anyone else come across a similar situation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NighthawkChris Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 (edited) Measurements? The Gibson spec is 5/64" on the bass side and 3/64" on treble side at the 12th fret. Also, how's the neck relief (measurement). How's the first fret action? Usually want no more than 0.020" at first fret on each string give or take 2 thou. If all these are checking out, you probably will have no other option than to do some filing on the bridge to get action lower so you can adjust upward and not be decked out. I have never had to do bridge filing though and don't advise to have just anyone do this... This would be my last measure IF I really had to go down this path TBH. Was the bridge a replacement - i.e. not OEM so to speak? You mentioned this was used, so no telling what the last guy(s) did here. FYI, my action is 4/64 on the bass and 3/64 on the treble. Anything lower usually I don't like and typically start getting choking out/buzzes going on. Specs are a good baseline, but these are not rules you have to live and die by... I know that some will say that all these specs are a bunch of BS, I've played for 100+ years, never had to mess with this... I'm just trying to help and the only way we can collaborate here to give you best advice per my experiences is to use quantitative measurements. I want your guitar to play good and for you to have confidence that it works for you. Nothing worse than buying a guitar that you have regret for... Luckily as you said, it plays good and hopefully we can somehow improve what you got going on. Good luck and best wishes. Edited February 25, 2021 by NighthawkChris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lukef Posted February 25, 2021 Author Share Posted February 25, 2021 Thx for the reply. When doing the setup I didn’t take the time to measure everything. I usually just do it by eye and feel (how it plays). Just curious if it’s fairly normal to have to run the bridge low like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveFord Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 You have that bushing sticking up so it may be up higher than it appears. I'd sight down the neck to see what the relief is, they usually can stand a little snugging up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lukef Posted February 25, 2021 Author Share Posted February 25, 2021 Yea I did tighten the truss rod a bit. When putting a capo on the first fret and fretting the last there is a little less than a business card width of relief at the 9th/10th. I think I’m going to take it to a friend who has all the proper tools for taking actual measurements. Could a nut that is not cut deep enough causing something like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NighthawkChris Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 58 minutes ago, Lukef said: Yea I did tighten the truss rod a bit. When putting a capo on the first fret and fretting the last there is a little less than a business card width of relief at the 9th/10th. I think I’m going to take it to a friend who has all the proper tools for taking actual measurements. Could a nut that is not cut deep enough causing something like this? Yeah, I'd do this, but the tools necessary aren't too much or expensive. Maybe want to buy that 64ths" card from Stewmac - great investment and can do string action setups consistently every time. Either way, how low the bridge goes depends on the neck angle when the guitar had it set in production as all of them are different. Once it is made one way, it never changes, so I think once you get the guitar up to spec, you'll find that adjustment room can be had. If you eye it out at manufacturer spec, the string action will "look" high, but in actuality, it's as designed and will not be hard to play. No need to have action like a shredder on a LP - i.e. traditional-like guitar. Again, best wishes and good luck. Share pics or it didn't happen! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveFord Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 Nut? I wouldn't think so. My Les Pauls aren't all the way down and the action is low. My 345 is pretty darned far down there SO listen to NighthawkChris. There will be slight variations in guitars. With the truss rod, snug is good. It can take a week or so of futzing around until things settle down with the neck adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickc Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 Luke: This is not normal. If the bridge is all the way down then you have no action adjustment. I'm assuming your guitar has a conventional bridge and tailpiece set-up. As Steve noted, if the bushings for the bridge are not pushed all the way down then this could explain the bottoming out. The nut has nothing to do with this and there would have to be a lot of relief in the neck for the truss rod to be part of this problem. What you describe suggests that the neck angle is too flat; there should be a small backwards angle of the neck relative to the top surface of the body. For comparison, for my old 87 LPC, with low action (4/64" and 3/64", same as Chris) the bottom of the low E bridge thumbwheel is 16/64" from the top of the body and 10/64" for the high E end. You have zero and zero; not good. Can you take a close-up picture and share? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eracer_Team Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 @Lukef hope you're not confusing terms, Bridge vs stop tail. Many people prefer lowering the stop tail all the way down. The tail has the strings pulled through them The bridge has your saddles for intonation and also does your action height Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lukef Posted February 25, 2021 Author Share Posted February 25, 2021 No I’m not confusing the bridge with the stop bar. I can take pics when I get home in a few hours. What would be most helpful to see? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveFord Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 He's got a 2019 which comes with bushings that stand proud of the body so the bridge can't be lowered as far down as previous models. Either that's just the way this guitar is going to be or the neck is bowed up a little bit. It doesn't sound like anything to worry about if you're satisfied with where the string action currently is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lukef Posted February 26, 2021 Author Share Posted February 26, 2021 I tried to attach some pictures of the guitar but it’s saying that the file is too big. But I did find out that these style of thumb screws are actually hollow on the bottom side so I do in fact still have some adjustment left. I was reading that some guys actually find it desirable to have one where the bridge needs to be set up closer to the body so that makes me happy. Lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eracer_Team Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 @Lukef you have to use a photo hosting site like imgur.com to post the img/jpg link images here. This site only allows thumbnail pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wind_stopper Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 If the bridge is bottomed out and you still have a high action, you either have quite a bow in the neck, or you know why the price was so good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merciful-evans Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 I've had a couple of guitars bottom out on bridge adjustment. Its not been a problem as long as the action is good. If it moves later, it will be the relief that has changed. Restore it using the truss rod. If you need to get the action lower (string gauge change etc) then as NH Chris says, consider fettling back the bridge a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunking101 Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 If you loosen the strings you'll find that you can lower the bridge a lot further than it seems. There is a recess on the underside of the bridge which allows the studs to go inside and the bridge to sit flush on top of the guitar. Loosening the strings is key to turning the thumbwheels all the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fearomoon Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 I just picked up a brand new 22/23 Classic and my string action at first fret is lower than Gibson specs, I measured 0.010" on high e. Can I leave it like that or do I have to change something? String Action at 12th Fret is something between 3/64 and 4/64 on high e. I have no choking out or buzzing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merciful-evans Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 1 hour ago, Fearomoon said: I just picked up a brand new 22/23 Classic and my string action at first fret is lower than Gibson specs, I measured 0.010" on high e. Can I leave it like that or do I have to change something? String Action at 12th Fret is something between 3/64 and 4/64 on high e. I have no choking out or buzzing.... Go with it. It working the way it should. Flout the rules & let the Specs Police do their worst. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fearomoon Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 I just needed to hear that to calm my inner Monk 😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eracer_Team Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 @Fearomoon if you get string buzz on open strings then it’s probably too close not to be confused with other type of string buzz of low action and neck bow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fearomoon Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 none of the strings cause buzzing when played open... the other strings except the high e string are also within gibson specifications, only the high e string is a bit low, so purely in terms of dimensions.... if I press down the 3rd fret, it lies completely on the 1st fret. In theory it shouldn't be like that, but if I play it empty, it swings freely, even if I hit it hard... whether it's just cosmetic that bothers me or whether I should have it corrected... I have no idea. It works and it doesn't buzz, but with the string action on the 12th fret I can't get to exactly 3/64 or lower without buzzing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eracer_Team Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 (edited) @Fearomoon who says the string can’t touch the first fret if you’re pressing the third fret? notes are made between the nut and the bridge saddle or a fret and the bridge saddle if your nut is too high you’ll pull notes sharp when fretting Edited March 21, 2023 by Eracer_Team Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merciful-evans Posted March 21, 2023 Share Posted March 21, 2023 If there is just one string that's low, its likely that saddle notch is cut too deep. I had this problem with the G when I got the LP DC Standard. Spare saddles can be handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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