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Strings on the Darkfire


boardusmcer

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I have finally found a type of strings I like on the darkfire. I started with the factory strings of course and either by detuning as often as I do or playing as much as I do they broke in the first few days. I since then have tried various string gauges and types going through elixer, gibson, and slinky. None of those even up to 11's lasted more than a week, until I found the "not so slinky" 12's by ernie ball. They last me about a week and a half to two weeks and I can detune as often as I want without worried I'll break another and now when I use my other les with 11's on it I can bend as easy as pie. I suggest checking those out if you are having problems (in reference to the keeping df in tune page) Also, I set my guitar down and it bumped a tuning peg, all pegs would tune in tuning mode except the peg that got bumped (low e) on further inspection the tuning peg and case rotated, rotating back to it's original position (level with the back plate with the light up G) fixed the problem and it works as advertised. So anyone who happens to bump their headstock and something doesn't work, check ur pegs to make sure they are straight.

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They last me about a week and a half to two weeks and I can detune as often as I want without worried I'll break another

 

wow, is this really such a strain on the strings to change tunings often ? I mean i was expecting strings to wear out a bit faster than usual, but a new set of strings evey two weeks ??? is that the typical mileage for strings on the DF ?

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My original set lasted about months!

 

Only just changed strings a week ago for the first time since Gibson returning my guitar in mid January - and this is playing very regularly - at least every other day. - and many live gigs.

 

I find the Dark Fire strings last me about the same as my other guitars.

 

I installed Fender Super Bullet .010"

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it may be different for other people, but i'm in the red bank ALL the time when I play with a local rock band (bullet for my valentine type stuff) and everything is pretty much in c-g-c-f-a-d or d-g-c-f-a-d but everything i record is in the blue bank, standard, drop d, or dadgad. I detune constantly while playing for an hour I'll probably tune it between both banks 5 times. I haven't tried the super bullets though and maybe they are a higher quality string than the ones i tried, but i figured if the coated elixers couldn't hack it then nothing would and went to the 12's. I'd love to hear what other people are experiencing though

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I happen to be a 9s player mostly. DF still sounds good with them. Originals lasted about 3 mo playing every other day, but I play standard tuning 99% of the time.

 

Looks like with GR-3 and such, you can pick up 2x4, slap strings on it and it will sound great...... =D>

 

I am tempted to try Traveler Speedster thru GR-3. guotar looks soooooo funky!

 

Cheers!

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I use Pearse 11's, but have used Diaddario and Pearse 12's

 

While gigging I switch tunings almost each song (slide).

 

I find after 3 hours of playing one of the higher strings will break. I change these out after each gig. Recently tried doing a couple of wind before threading the post and this seems to help.

 

Any advice would help. Going generally between open D, open G, open e, standard and a few minor tunings

 

Thanks

 

Goat

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Hi Elantric,

Totally agree with this but how do you, 'asside experience', guage the amount of string to cut

either im rubbish at guessing or you have a method?

I always seem to end up with more than i need especially on the higher g-b-e strings.

 

I guess the obvious retort would be to quote 'im crap at guessing'! lol +:-@)

But really im interested to know as you look like you get them bang on. [-o<

 

Its always best to keep the non speaking string length to a Minimum.

 

That means use the shortest possible amount of wraps around the Locking tuning posts.

 

I have no more than 3/4 wrap (less than one) on my posts

 

Like this:

 

PICT0045.jpg

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Guys' date=' am I dazed and confused? (possible, just had a back surgery last week), but I thought we are not suppose to have any wraps around the post at all and cut the string close to the post...

Am I wrong? Why the wraps?

[/quote']

 

icing, wish you a quick recovery. back surgery is no joke....

 

On the topic, and regarding the question on how to get the wraps controlled, one way to handle this is to manually turn the tuning pegs such that the angle of the hole through the post between each tuners are consistent. Well on the opposite side you go for the opposite angle but I'm sure you will get my idea. Then you install the string with no slack and cut as close to the post as possible and tune. You will get a similar wrap amount of course slightly erred due to the diameter of the strings. Seems to work for me and you only have to do once.

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Icing,

 

I wish you a rapid recovery and send my best wishes; be well, our friend!

 

Everyone else,

 

I bought my DF January 13 and am still using the original strings. I regularly change tunings at least half a dozen (sometimes a dozen or more) times per night and have yet to experience a problem. My DF still sounds (I think) as sweet as when I bought it; it tunes itself as I wish infallibly. I don't understand the reason for this whining; what am I doing wrong? Best wishes and smiles!

 

(Lighten up folks; it's just a guitar) Sometimes, you just need to adjust...

 

EDIT: And I'm sure I'll eventually break a string if I continue on this path, but I'll bet I change first (any takers?).

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When I change strings, I do the following steps for each string:

 

1) Rotate the MCK to "D" - and press it down - turning all powertune stuff off.

 

2) Loosen string manually with the tuning peg - careful not too aggressively to Not damage the motor.

 

3) Loosen locking binding post screw on top of the binding post and Remove old string

 

4) Rotate the Tuning peg manually until the hole in the tuning binding post lines up and an absolutely straight string path for threading a new string is established.

 

5) Carefully thread new string through the tailpiece, over the bridge, up over the nut, and thread it though the hole in the Tuning post.

 

6) With my Left hand, I pull the new string as hard as I can, then with my right hand I rotate the locking tuner screw on top of the tuner to clamp the new string.

 

7) Using side cutters, I cut off the remaining string length as close to the tuning post as possible

 

8) I manually turn the tuning peg to tighten the string - enough to have enough tension for the piezo bridge to accurately "read" the string pitch.

 

9) I raise the MCK up , rotate it full clockwise, and single "tap" it.

 

10) Strum the guitar and the Powertune system tunes the new string to standard pitch.

 

11) Important - I stretch the new string, this video shows my method:

 

12) I tap the MCK - and strum , and it retunes the string after stretching - and I'm ready to repeat steps 1-12 for the next string.

 

13) Repeat steps 1-13 until all 6 strings are replaced.

 

 

I end up with less than one wrap on each locking tuning post. My High E has the most string wrapped around the locking tuning post - still less than one full wrap for all strings- which is best.

 

FWIW - I use Fender Super Bullet .010-.046

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That's a pretty detailed guide to changing strings! lol O:))

Thanks :o)

 

Guess the knack is to be stretching the string and winding down to the 'bite',

then when you release the stretch it should by rights stay in place with a minimum of turnage of the tuners?

 

Will give this a go when i change my strings again in a week or so.

I get good months play out of the ernie balls in 10's

Although not on a DF yet ;o)

Thanks for the enlightenment,

see ya can teach an old dog new tricks! lol O:)

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