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paddydhurley

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Do you mean lowering the saddle?  A setup to get more desirable action is a multi-faceted process that needs analysis, in which lowering of your bridge is probably the least rational, last resort.

 

 

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4 hours ago, jedzep said:

Do you mean lowering the saddle?  A setup to get more desirable action is a multi-faceted process that needs analysis, in which lowering of your bridge is probably the least rational, last resort.

 

Yes I meant lowering the saddle.  My cousin’s daughter was found drown on a river in Montana, so it’s been a long day.  Thanks!

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Ouch!  Hope your family can hang in tough, Paddy.

Yes, often saddles are sanded down, some from top if not compensated, often from the bottom, both with caution and attention to precision, but there may be alternative steps to lowering action and dropping to lighter strings. 

When you catch your breath, send a photo of the saddle from the sound hole side so we can see the height.  If you have a good shop, bring it in for a pro look at improving the geometry for you.

Edited by jedzep
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35 minutes ago, paddydhurley said:

At @jedzep, I am taking to my luthier today as he will be able to help.

He absolutely should.

A few years back I took and all day class, and learned how to set up my guitars. Best $200 bucks I ever spend. If you are only gonna have one or two ever in your life it may not be worth it, and going to a pro would be more cost effective, as a set up should not break the bank. Right now I only need a luthier if I have an "Oh S-hit" moment.

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17 hours ago, paddydhurley said:

A shout out to @jedzep.   All the others that made snarky comments, well grow up.   I know that's a challenge but it's time.

 

We joke around here. We go off track. A thread about strings might end up talking about french toast. 

There are members in this forum that don't even own Gibson acoustics and just want to talk about other brands.

We can turn a thread about picks into a thread about cars.

Lighten up.

 

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PdH,  of course, luthier route safest.  I've sanded down saddles and it's trickier than you'd think.  Natural hand motion will cause it to wind up uneven and rounded - so you'll be worse off than when you started.  You need to have some type of a tool-like guide to keep it from rocking and rolling. And mark it with a fine liner so you don't take off too much. Or too little.     Sgt.Pepper's idea of taking a full day class for $200  sounds interesting.  "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing ..."  I certainly need a little more !  

Let us know what the diagnosis and solution turned out to be.   G'Luck!

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2 hours ago, fortyearspickn said:

PdH,  of course, luthier route safest.  I've sanded down saddles and it's trickier than you'd think.  Natural hand motion will cause it to wind up uneven and rounded - so you'll be worse off than when you started.  You need to have some type of a tool-like guide to keep it from rocking and rolling. And mark it with a fine liner so you don't take off too much. Or too little.     Sgt.Pepper's idea of taking a full day class for $200  sounds interesting.  "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing ..."  I certainly need a little more !  

Let us know what the diagnosis and solution turned out to be.   G'Luck!

Thanks!  I put 11s on so far and do not like the sound.  I will probably go back to 12s.  I’m not sure if I am going to lower the action yet by shaving the saddle.  The above YouTube video is an excellent contribution to this thread.  

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2 hours ago, fortyearspickn said:

PdH,  of course, luthier route safest.  I've sanded down saddles and it's trickier than you'd think.  Natural hand motion will cause it to wind up uneven and rounded - so you'll be worse off than when you started.  You need to have some type of a tool-like guide to keep it from rocking and rolling. And mark it with a fine liner so you don't take off too much. Or too little.     Sgt.Pepper's idea of taking a full day class for $200  sounds interesting.  "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing ..."  I certainly need a little more !  

Let us know what the diagnosis and solution turned out to be.   G'Luck!

That is why when you sand a saddle you pick a number like 10. And sand 10 times one way(on the flattest surface you have), and then 180 the saddle and sand it 10 times the other way and you won't round off the bottom of the saddle. And then its a constant on an off process of checking it.  I learned that at the class I took. That day I took the class it was trial by fire to, as I set up my newly acquired D-35 that day. Since my class I have not needed to go to a luthier to get a guitar set up since. You are gonna need to get some tools to do the set ups. All in all what I needed didn't cost me that much. The nut slot files (I have the ones in the video they are from Japan and were raved about online) were probably the most expensive things I needed to buy, and maybe a really good straight edge. Don't go cheap on that. Getting your neck dead flat when you start rocking frets is muy importante.  A good neck support is essential too, but they are not expensive. 

Edited by Sgt. Pepper
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19 minutes ago, paddydhurley said:

Thanks!  I put 11s on so far and do not like the sound.  I will probably go back to 12s.  I’m not sure if I am going to lower the action yet by shaving the saddle.  The above YouTube video is an excellent contribution to this thread.  

I have 11's on all my 00 and 000's. The Dread gets 12's. Your guitar should be able to handle 12's no problem. I had 11's on my Dread but it didn't agree with it.  

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7 minutes ago, Sgt. Pepper said:

I have 11's on all my 00 and 000's. The Dread gets 12's. Your guitar should be able to handle 12's no problem. I had 11's on my Dread but it didn't agree with it.  

I am getting use to the 11s.    I played for an hour and am learning how to lay off a bit.  It's probably better anyway.  Thanks!

Edited by paddydhurley
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