Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums

truss rod adj. + crack = coincidence?


avidkut

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

 

I am trying to figure out if these two are related in my case.

 

It's probably a newbie question but this is the first time I've done anything like this so there you go... ;)

 

I was having an issue on my Epiphone Masterbilt DR-500M where the first fret-only of the B string was buzzing.

 

It was time for string change anyway so that's the first thing I did (and in full disclosure I should mention that I also went from light strings to medium - Elixir Phosphor Bronze to be precise.)

 

Then, I gave the truss rod ever-so-slight adjustments until the first fret-buzzing went away (maybe a 1/4 turn in total)

 

This morning I noticed a crack on the back of the guitar near the bottom of the body (nowhere near the neck) approx. 4 inches in length, running parallel with the center-seam maybe an inch away.

 

 

Do you think either a string-change or the truss-rod adjustment would/could cause this sort of crack? It is, of course, possible the crack was already there and I just hadn't noticed. Or it could just be a coincidence...

 

Thanks in advance.

 

DK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm. Fret rattle on one string only? I would have first suspected some problem with that one string - low in the nut or saddle, not enough break over the saddle. Granted, changing from lights to mediums might well require a rod adjustment, but that would change string height on all the strings, not just the offending B. All that said, I would not think the string change/rod adjustment would have anything to do with the appearance of the crack. The crack may have been there all along and the increased tension on the body (via the neck) could have made it become visable, but I don't think it would have caused it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Exactly where is this crack. I'm gathering it is on the back of the body' date=' right?

 

Got any pics?[/quote']

 

I won't have access to a camera until tomorrow (yes I AM the one person left with no camera on my Blackberry :-) but I can get some pics then.

 

The crack is on the back of the body, and as far away from the neck as it could possibly be without hitting the bottom of the guitar.

 

The back of the guitar is made up of two pieces of solid Mahogany with a bone/plastic(?) 'designy' line of some sort running up the center of the body. This crack is parallel to that design, app. 1 inch away and maybe 2 inches from the bottom of the guitar (where the strap-holder is).

 

My gut is that it's a coincidence but since I've never adjusted a truss rod before...

 

Thanks again for the help.

 

DK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a photo of the same guitar that I found on-line. I made a purple line where the crack is.

 

I had thought about the nut as well but a few people-in-the-know recommended a truss rod adjustment and by the time I got the strings changed the low E was buzzing as well so I figured I go for it :-

 

GR08010630-bodyback-crack.jpg

 

If it's not the adjustment that did it then do you think it's because the wood is too dry? Maybe I should put a hygrometer in the case?

 

Either way, what is the recommended way of dealing with the crack as I assume it will only get worse?

 

Thanks.

 

DK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The crack could be from drying. I would humidify the guitar just because and just in case. The crack can be cleated and glued by a repairman easy enough without any impact on the tone or structural integrity of the guitar.

 

Yeah, I've got a humidifier in there already but I probably don't fill it enough. I think I'll add a hygrometer so I can keep an eye on the humidity level.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think that adjusting the truss rod would cause the crack to appear. It may be however that minor tectonic stresses on the back related to the truss rod adjustment and heavier strings precipitated the crack which was waiting to happen. The real cause is probably humidity issues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...(yes I AM the one person left with no camera on my Blackberry ;))...

DK

 

Why would you want to put your camera on fruit?

 

Somewhere I have a cellular phone. Not sure where. Quite by happenstance it is a smallish thing, smaller than my first caluclator. I think I've got minutes on it until the end of May, so, I'm not concerned. I really wanted one of them first generation Motorolas with the trapezoidal batteries, but by the time I got interested in getting on the cellular grid, they had all ben relegated to the nearest land fill (thank you very much.)

 

Put a camera on my phone? Pull-eeeeze. I've seen the pictures, rather I should say, images captured by camera phones. Better your electronic gear be not so 'Jack-of-all-trades-and-master-of-nothing.'

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The back of the guitar is made up of two pieces of solid Mahogany with a bone/plastic(?) 'designy' line of some sort running up the center of the body....

DK

 

That would be called a 'Zipper'

 

Could be due to low humidity or impact damage. Cleating is the best solution. If you have a guitar with any solid panels' date=' humidity, or lack thereof is your enemy. Keep it properly hydrated.

 

Impact damage could have happened any time. Possibly whilest re-stringing. Make sure to lay your 'baby' on a thick towel or blanket and that nothing is under it when doing the surgery. If the back has a crown to it, a crack such as this [i']could [/i]have come about by pushing down, to the extreme, when installing the pins. Pins don't need that much 'hurt' to stay put. If they rocket out of their assigned holes when bringing to pitch you're doing something wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree about the humidity. it could also cause the rattle.... if the board dried out, then the fret may have popped up a bit.

it's also possible that since that is a common finger spot for many chords that the fret is just worn down an therefore buzzing against the 2nd fret.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use this one from Sears. It use about 5 gallons a day in the winter' date=' and about 5 gallons a month

in the summer (if that).

 

[img']http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/productImages/6/0/00000119560-Kenmore12GallonConsoleEvaporativeHumidifier14416-large.jpeg[/img]

 

It's the best $100 bucks I've ever spent. Keeps the entire house quite comfortable. It set it for 45%, then just make sure it has water in it.

 

 

 

5 gallons a day!!!! I had no idea the winter had soooo much less humidity.

 

Thanks to everyone for your input and suggestions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...