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Nut width question..


Gibson101

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The difference could be the actual string spacing or the profile of the neck. I play a Gibson F-25 which has a 2" nut and a flat fingerboard just like a classical guitar and just about every other guitar I play feels odd.

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I have all three widths mentioned on my 3 acoustics. I notice very little difference with the nut width on my Gibson AJ (1.725") and my Taylor 612C (1.75"). I do notice going to the LG1 with it's 1 11/16th" for some reason, but all it takes is a couple minutes of play to adjust and all is good. I have to say spacing at the nut is only one way to feel the difference, it also is the spacing at the bridge that makes more difference sometimes for fingerstyle especially.

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I guess I am up for the Darwin award' date=' I will venture back into the land of silence where it is better to remain quiet than open ones mouth and remove all doubt about being an idiot.

 

Fred[/quote']

Hah that made me chuckle! Not a problem at all I actually thought I was missing something. Have a great day!

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.

.

 

Moderators, call the moderators - those bad boys over in Acoustic are comparing their nuts.....

.....oh, THOSE nuts - I WAS wondering how they measured them SO accurately!

 

I should think 1/16" difference would be noticeable - The Meissner corpuscles in your skin,

responsible for delicate touch response, can detect differences as small as 40um over 1sq.cm.

 

That's 1.5thou to us Imperialistic types - or very small indeed.

 

[Front cover].......................................................................................................................................[back Cover]

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Id say scale and neck profile enter into it as well. I liked Martin's 00028ec but not the OM28 (both 1.75 but the EC is 24.9 scale). Some of the 1.725 necks "feel" wider (BK)--something about the fat C profile. Given the relatively small difference between 1.725 and 1.75 and other variables -- string spacing, scale length, neck profile-- it might be hard to generalize. J

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do your nuts ever get swollen????

 

You know...with high humidity and such???? I swear I get two different measurements in the summer and in the winter....

 

What kind of measurements? Do you mean something like the strings sticking in the slots, or being pushed out of the slots from the swelling, or something else, like changes in action height? Or maybe changes in string spacing?

 

Are you using a dehumidifier in the summer, and a humidifier in the winter ... and if so, does this still happen?

 

I keep my guitars in a closed-off room with no outdoor facing walls unless they are being played, and check humidity levels daily, usually while drinking the first cup of Joe. I try to keep everything no lower than 40% and no higher than 48-50% RH. Mine tend to play better around 45-48%, with a temp around 68-72F. Before I got the dehumidifier, the RH in the house could get as high as 60%, and any guitar I picked up sounded muffled.

 

Flinx

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.

.

 

Sheesh Flinx - that must make touring dificult.....

 

Now then - onewilyfool, do you favour boxers or briefs to keep the vagueries of summer and winter from your nuts, or do you allow your guitars to go commando in nothing but the hard-case?

:-

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Here is an interesting topic!

 

I am plum used to my Gibson necks at 1.725.

 

My SJ200 feels wider, as it has a shallower neck profile due to the 5-piece neck, whereas my Hummingbird with its solid Hog neck has a deeper, more C-profile neck.

 

I don't notice a great deal of difference, other than the Bird is a lot easier on the left hand over a 2hr live show, although this is attributable to the shorter scale neck, also.

 

Aside from my Gibsons, I have had a couple of different Guild acoustics over the last couple of years-just the mid-price GAD series. They make great backup guitars and have that "I'll take it on a plane, no worries" vibe. I would never recommend them over a Bozeman Gibson, but they are fabulous instruments for the money-my current one, a 30R, is a really good OM, better than a lot of £2000+ Martins I've played, and it only cost me £550.

 

Anyway, I digress. BUY GIBSON!!

 

Where was I?

 

Oh yes, nuts. My Guild 30R has a 1 3/4" nut width, and I don't notice the transition between that and my Gibsons at 1.725 at all, if I'm swapping guitars around in the studio and such.

 

However, my previous Guild was the smaller F20E, with a 1 11/16" nut, and I found, whilst it was a lovely sounding instrument, the neck width was noticeably more cramped compared to my comfy Gibson necks.

 

I do have great big sausage fingers, though!

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Well....I have two Gibson Flattops.....the L-20 and the J-30 "Firebird".... The specs for the L-20 show either 1 13/16" or 1 7/8" nut, depending on source of info.....mine has a nut of 1 3/4" plus a 32" or 1 25/32". The Firebird is supposed to have a nut width of 1 23/32" but actually is just a hair under 1 3/4" .....so go figure......wood expands and contracts.....do your nuts do the same??

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