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Fine tuning my Gibson Les Paul Standard

jalexquijano

By jalexquijano
in Gibson USA

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jalexquijano

jalexquijano

Posted
Posted

My Les Paul Standard seems to be giving me tuning problems after the 12th fret on my 1st E string (.009). I have noticed this while playing octaves, after the 12th fret the notes sound out of tune.

 

Should I start moving the saddles in the bridge?? Every time i take the guitar to the luthier he charges me US$60- 80 to change the strings which i provide and do the corresponding set up.

 

Please advice.

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Laney1566

Laney1566

Posted
Posted
My Les Paul Standard seems to be giving me tuning problems after the 12th fret on my 1st E string (.009). I have noticed this while playing octaves' date=' after the 12th fret the notes sound out of tune.

 

Should I start moving the saddles in the bridge?? Every time i take the guitar to the luthier he charges me US$60- 80 to change the strings which i provide and do the corresponding set up.

 

Please advice.

 

[/quote']

 

Find a new luthier!!!

 

$35.00 is more like it.

 

And to answer the question....Depends on if it goes sharp or flat.

If the low E is climbing too fast (sharp) then the saddle needs to go backwards (Lengthen the string.) This has the potential to get more fret buzz and if so... the bridge needs to be raised.

If it's falling behind (climbing too slow) then shorten the string. It's "Flat".

It helps to have a Strobe tuner.

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Foxboron

Foxboron

Posted
Posted
My Les Paul Standard seems to be giving me tuning problems after the 12th fret on my 1st E string (.009). I have noticed this while playing octaves' date=' after the 12th fret the notes sound out of tune.

 

Should I start moving the saddles in the bridge?? Every time i take the guitar to the luthier he charges me US$60- 80 to change the strings which i provide and do the corresponding set up.

 

Please advice.

 

[/quote']

 

get a tuner.

turn it on.

hit the open low e string, and tune it to be allmost perfect.

hit the low e string on the 12th fret, this have to be allmost closly or exat the same as the open.

if not, adjust the saddle.

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Thundergod

Thundergod

Posted
Posted

"shall I start moving the saddles on the bridge"

 

HELL NO!

 

If you don't know what you are doing then leave it to a pro.

 

 

Your problem might be due to the strings being too high too... do you know how to measure string height? If so do that and post it here.

 

If you need tips on how to set intonation, height and setup in general, then send me a PM and I'll be happy to help.

 

By your name I asume you speak spanish... if you want, go to the spain section and start a thread and I'll post the complete process n there for all spanish talking members to use it. I'd post it here but a)half the guys know it already, b)don't feel like typipng it all in english when the guys at spain-section will surely apreciate it more:-" , and c)that part of the forum could use a little more action.

 

Saludos y suerte con tu guitarra!

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Slogold

Slogold

Posted
Posted

I think it's time to learn how to adjust things on your guitar.

Stop paying your luthier for simple things like that.

Play around with it,it's just a guitar you don't need to be a rocket scientist

just to adjust something on it. Mess with it,its a trial and error.

The only time you need to bring it to the tech is when everything are all messed up

and you cannot bring it back anymore.

 

ROCK ON !!!!!!:-k/

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ledzep59

ledzep59

Posted
Posted

I'm sure you can look on youtube and find a video of how to change strings on your exact guitar. You should do a little research on the web and give it a whirl. I find changing strings and any sort of luthier work to be a sort of "zen" moment- very relaxing.

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Guest

Guest

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Posted
I find changing strings and any sort of luthier work to be a sort of "zen" moment- very relaxing.

 

Ain't that just the truth. It is very Zen like isn't it?

 

And you get to see you guitar in a different light.

 

Bit off Les Paul topic but I almost got rid of a Tele cause I couldn't get a good sound out of it and then bit the bullet and had a go at my own setup.

What a difference it made and what a learning curve.

It's very cool to do this stuff yourself and see, feel, and hear the results.

 

When I finally got my LP, I had no qualms in setting it up myself.

 

My 2 cents

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rocketman

rocketman

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Posted

 

+1 on this. I worked on my Sonex since I was 13, but honestly I was scared to work on my LPs because they are darn expensive. But after reading a few books it gave me confidence to work on them. This is a great book with lots of pictures. Get yourself a Wal-Mart guitar, work on that for a while to get the kinks out and you'll be working on your LP in no time. After a while you'll look forward to working on it...

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pickinbuddy

pickinbuddy

Posted
Posted

One of the greatest things about ALL Gibsons...is that ALL the adjustments work and work WELL, unlike some guitars that are just loaded with miniature allen screws on the bridges and the saddles--and after adjusting them for 5 minutes--there isn't any change! Some of those Stratocaster type bridges/saddles actually have too many adjustment points!

 

Don't worry about adjustments on the Les Paul--it's a very precise and stable guitar and it adjusts well....even if you make a mistake on it, it can be easily re-adjusted right back.

 

You can do it yourself with ANY tuner--first of all, get it perfectly in tune, then hit a 12th fret harmonic on each string and then compare it to that same string fretted at the 12th fret.

The built-in problem with the extra light gauge strings is that there is a lot of string excursion when you play hard, and it may seem out of tune during harder playing....that's just the nature of .009 strings. Also--they age faster....the extra light gauge strings just wear out faster and intonate flat faster due to age and corrosion.

 

Good old fashioned "trial and error" works best. If the string frets sharp at the 12th fret, then loosen it and adjust the saddle back toward the tailpiece, get it back in tune and then compare the harmonic note to the fretted note. Keep doing this as many times as neccessary on each string. Detuning the string before making the saddle adjustments makes the job quicker.

Of course, if it frets flat at the 12th fret, then do the same thing loosening the string and adjust the saddle forward toward the pickups...then retune and compare.

ALSO take a pencil, sharpen it and rub some graphite in the grooves at the nut and the saddles--this helps the strings move smoothly during the tuning process. It also preserves the nut and the tuning machines. This pencil graphite trick works on EVERY stringed instrument.

Also make sure the "Stop Bar" tailpiece isn't down too far--this can make the bridge sit on a slant.

Good Luck!

Bill Turner

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Mark

Mark

Posted
Posted
One of the greatest things about ALL Gibsons...is that ALL the adjustments work and work WELL' date=' unlike some guitars that are just loaded with miniature allen screws on the bridges and the saddles--and after adjusting them for 5 minutes--there isn't any change! Some of those Stratocaster type bridges/saddles actually have too many adjustment points!

 

Don't worry about adjustments on the Les Paul--it's a very precise and stable guitar and it adjusts well....even if you make a mistake on it, it can be easily re-adjusted right back.

 

You can do it yourself with ANY tuner--first of all, get it perfectly in tune, then hit a 12th fret harmonic on each string and then compare it to that same string fretted at the 12th fret.

The built-in problem with the extra light gauge strings is that there is a lot of string excursion when you play hard, and it may seem out of tune during harder playing....that's just the nature of .009 strings. Also--they age faster....the extra light gauge strings just wear out faster and intonate flat faster due to age and corrosion.

 

Good old fashioned "trial and error" works best. If the string frets sharp at the 12th fret, then loosen it and adjust the saddle back toward the tailpiece, get it back in tune and then compare the harmonic note to the fretted note. Keep doing this as many times as neccessary on each string. Detuning the string before making the saddle adjustments makes the job quicker.

Of course, if it frets flat at the 12th fret, then do the same thing loosening the string and adjust the saddle forward toward the pickups...then retune and compare.

ALSO take a pencil, sharpen it and rub some graphite in the grooves at the nut and the saddles--this helps the strings move smoothly during the tuning process. It also preserves the nut and the tuning machines. This pencil graphite trick works on EVERY stringed instrument.

Also make sure the "Stop Bar" tailpiece isn't down too far--this can make the bridge sit on a slant.

Good Luck!

Bill Turner[img']

 

Well said, Please post more often.

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James Walsh

James Walsh

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Posted

Here's a web site that is educational that I recently found online and enjoy: http://www.projectguitar.com/

I also like the StewMac News via email and bought Dan Erliwine's book released by Guitar Player Magazine on Repair and Setup.

 

If all else fails simply go to Andy Brauer in Studio City, CA (San Fernando Valley). He does excellent work and while I paid a little more for what I needed than your paying I got guitars that play great and are reliable! I also like Andys attitude. He really cares and loves to work on guitars. My Epi Les Paul is sweet as are my other guitars. Be sure to check out his videos. http://www.andybrauer.com

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