NeoConMan Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Here's a couple of pics to clarify any misconceptions about my Schaller installation method. No patent applied for, feel free to copy this all you want to. I consider this a labor of love, helping those who love their guitars as much as I do... :-) You've surely heard me tell you to throw away the screws that come with the Schallers. If they so happen to match the screws that are in the guitar, then it doesn't matter. This has never occurred for me, and I refuse to cross-thread a different screw in the body and damage threads. Either use the Gibson screws that came in the guitar, or go to the hardware store to buy exact replacements. Length and diameter of the screw is not the main consideration - make sure the thread pitch/count is the same. When I buy screws for anything, I get stainless when I can - never rust. First off, go to Home Depot or any other hardware store and getcha some of these; Danco faucet washers made of buna rubber, will NOT harm the finish. (Not in the last 6 years anyway....) You can see the finished result in the background. Here's the Schaller pin after being drilled out so the original Gibson screw will slide through. The hole needs to be drilled out to 11/64" or 4 mm. Here's the bottom view of the Schaller pin after drilling. Note also the side of the screw head has been ground down slightly. This is not needed on all Gibson screws, if it will slide inside the new pin then you're good. On a Les Paul the screw for the bottom end pin is bigger than the one on the upper bout by the neck. Here's the finished assembly before tightening. The difference you should see here is how much deeper the factory screw will drop down inside the pin. Without the rubber washer for a spacer, the screw would penetrate further than it does on the factory pin. This additional penetration depth would not be an issue in this application. Anywhere space is limited could cause a problem though. Installation on the back of guitars such as my SG and ES-335 would make me nervous because there's not much room to spare. Hate to punch through something or split wood that was not pre-drilled deep enough. You MUST use a washer or spacer of some sort! Tightening is easier now, you know when to stop. Go until you feel resistance as the washer compresses, and observe that it begins to bulge slightly. These washers are more than firm enough to keep the screw from bending sideways. The washers also buy you some forgiveness if you drop the guitar on the end pin. The rubber will absorb some shock from a moderate force without the screw snapping off. It's tucked up safely inside the pin now, remember? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Plains Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Nice! I used white felt washers. Just saying... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfpup Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Nice!I used white felt washers. Just saying... Different tone from the white washers, eh? Less dark, perhaps? :D/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeoConMan Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share Posted October 2, 2009 My main concern is highlighted in red. Without the rubber washer for a spacer' date=' the screw would penetrate further . Installation on the back of guitars such as my SG and ES-335 would make me nervous because there's not much room to spare. Hate to punch through something or split wood that was not pre-drilled deep enough. You MUST use a washer or spacer of some sort! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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