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would you put schaller/ jim dunlop strap locks on your LP VOS???


wonderman

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Three pages of posts on strap locks. Amazing! Everyone does what he or she wants with their respective instruments. I have played the guitar to hell and back in every state of mind & style imaginable since 1958. I have rigged, invented and improvised my own systems of outside the strap secure devices. I have never had an accident. Today's removable devices work fine. Properly sized flat rubber washers from the hardware store never fail. The brand name installed perms work fine when installed properly. I have no idea or need to know if permanent locks affect value. Since I have never used them, they have never been of issue. Who gives a damn beside the specific instrument's owner? It is really just a matter of personal preference. I do think it is nuts for anybody to suggest just because someone has an alternative to permanent straplocks means he or she doesn't get the darn guitar out of the case and play the Sam hell out of it. I say, if you own a guitar do what works for your own piece of mind.

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Three pages of posts on strap locks. Amazing! Everyone does what he or she wants with their respective instruments. I have played the guitar to hell and back in every state of mind & style imaginable since 1958. I have rigged' date=' invented and improvised my own systems of outside the strap secure devices. I have never had an accident. Today's removable devices work fine. Properly sized flat rubber washers from the hardware store never fail. The brand name installed perms work fine when installed properly. I have no idea or need to know if permanent locks affect value. Since I have never used them, they have never been of issue. Who gives a damn beside the specific instrument's owner? It is really just a matter of personal preference. I do think it is nuts for anybody to suggest just because someone has an alternative to permanent straplocks means he or she doesn't get the darn guitar out of the case and play the Sam hell out of it. I say, if you own a guitar do what works for your own piece of mind. [/quote']

 

 

lol,....Good Advice HG!!!

 

:-k/

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Why hasnt anyone confirmed this then?! People are saying you have to. So what has to be filed ect? Just the standard strap holder?

I don't know; maybe they aren't handy with screwdrivers or just overzealous when it comes to power tools; only they can tell you why they felt the need to go further than the what I did. I put them on without the need of drills' date=' toothpicks, glue or duct tape. I've installed Schallers on four different guitars made by various manufacturers (including my Gibson Custom Shop Les Paul Custom - read: $$$$$) and a set of Dunlops on my SG Junior. I made no modifications of any kind to any of those guitars other than unscrewing the original strap buttons and screwing on the strap lock buttons [i']using the original screws that held the original strap buttons[/i] to secure them.

 

If you need the ultimate in confirmation, buy a set of strap locks and try it for yourself. If you're unhappy with the results or it just isn't working out for some reason, take them off and put the original buttons back on. It's as simple as that.

 

What I like about using strap locks instead of Grolsch gaskets or metal washers is that the strap can be easily taken off the guitar when I put it in the case and holds the guitar securely when I'm playing it. IMO, if spending $15 on a set of strap locks is too expensive for someone who already spent anywhere from $1000 to... well, the sky's the limit with Gibson..., they really need to take a look at their priorities in life because I can't imagine how they're managing their finances in general. That's not a slight to those who choose to use other methods because that's what works for them and don't feel the need to change what already works, it's a comment to those who think that a $15 insurance policy for an instrument that costs thousands of dollars is too big of an investment.

 

In short: Buy the things and give a try already and quit agonizing over an experiment that will cost you no more than shipping if you buy online and it doesn't work out.

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Congrats man! Definetly go with Schaller. I have them on all of My Guitars. I have heard bad things about Dunlop locks and even just looking at them you can see that they don't look as secure as Schallers. Everytime when I buy a new Guitar the one thing I do immediately after buying it is buying some Schaller Strap Locks.

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I've had Schallers on my Strat since the 80's and there is no damage. I have to agree with Guitarhero15... when I buy a guitar... I get a case and a set of Schallers. I have never had to use a drill. In fact, I have had WAY more trouble getting the strap part decently attached to the strap than I have ever had with the guitar pieces O:)

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My VOS came with some' date=' but I have no idea what kind they are. Took me a while to figure out how they work, since I'd never seen any strap locks before. Once I got that sorted, took me an hour or so to get the strap onto them because the leather on the strap was so thick. Hopefully there on there for good.[/quote']

 

Dude, were you trying to fit your strap over the locks on the body? If the locks were already installed, they may not have given you the other half of the locks, the ones that attach to the strap. Takes only a second to put the strap on with the proper installation. Check it out

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So can strap locks be installed by someone like me who has no idea and is frantic about hurting mother natures best creation.

 

All you need is a crosshead screwdriver. Turn left to remove the current strap peg, right to install the new one;-)

 

I've got straplocks on all my guitars, including three Les Paul Standards. I use both Schaller and Dunlop, but I prefer Schaller. Their screws generally fit the existing holes a little better than Dunlop I've found.

 

My 93 Les Paul Standard has been hanging from the same set of Schallers for nearly 15 years now. The screwhole at the bottom of the guitar was slightly too big, so I plugged it with some toothpicks. Hasn't budged since...

 

If you tighten the nut on the strap bit with a wrench rather than your fingers, it'll stay put for quite a while. I do however check both the strap peg and the bit on the strap every time I play a guitar. Things do tend to work themselves loose once in a while...

 

I'm thinking about getting a VOS (either a 57 or 58) and you can rest assured she'll get straplocks!

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Okay, I'll make this easy.

 

DO NOT DRILL THE GUITAR and do not mess up the threads in the holes!!!

 

There's no reason.

I have Schallers on EVERYTHING I've owned over the last 15 years.

 

The toothpick and glue trick is a used car sales trick, don't even go there.

If the hole is shot, I have a length of 3/8" Mahogany dowel.

Drill the body out and glue a SOLID 1.5" long piece in the body, drill a new screw hole.

Pin covers the Mahogany dowel.

 

 

You can use the original Gibson screws and put the original strap buttons back on in the future.

Take a few minutes, and maybe a trip to town to do it RIGHT and there will never be an issue.

 

 

On a Les Paul, the back pin is too small to accept the Gibson screw.

Drill it out on the inside. Put a thin piece of cardboard around it and clamp it in a vise, or a pair of locking pliers.

Done deal.

The screw head may be too large in diameter to slip down inside the Schaller pin, grind it down slightly.

 

To help preserve the wood around the pin, I put small buna rubber faucet washers under the pin instead of felt washers.

 

The Schaller pins are cleanly installed, the threads inside the body are pristine, and you still have the factory screws with only the slightest grinding on the head.

 

I went to the trouble of going to the hardware store with the Gibson screws, and buying stainless screws with the identical thread pitch.

 

Everything original is in the case on most of mine.

 

$.02 from a guy who had a $3,000 Les Paul hit the floor and survive.....

Never again.

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I agree with drilling out the Schaller button on the lower body (4mm bit seems to work just fine) to accept the original Gibson screw. As an alternative to filing down the screw head, you can use a countersink bit to get everything nice 'n tidy. There's enough metal on the Schaller button to do it, but as with all things go slowly & take your time.

 

I'm with NeoConMan - why drill/butcher your guitar body, when a drill press & 25 minutes will do the job, and the worst that can happen is you'll mess up the button & have to buy a new one. That's a lot better than going cring to your local luthier.

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I guess I'm in the minority' date=' as I have Dunlops.

 

My issue with the Schalers is that they rattle. Stupid issue, perhaps, but it bothers me nonetheless.[/quote']

I have Dunlops on my LP Junior and SG. I like them. The buttons look pretty close to stock from a distance. I guess it is like arguing over which taste better, chocolate or vanilla. No correct answer, just opinions O:)

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Okay' date=' I'll make this easy.

 

[b']DO NOT DRILL THE GUITAR and do not mess up the threads in the holes!!![/b]

 

There's no reason.

I have Schallers on EVERYTHING I've owned over the last 15 years.

 

The toothpick and glue trick is a used car sales trick, don't even go there.

If the hole is shot, I have a length of 3/8" Mahogany dowel.

Drill the body out and glue a SOLID 1.5" long piece in the body, drill a new screw hole.

Pin covers the Mahogany dowel.

 

You advocate not drilling the guitar in your first statement, yet you want to drill the body to accept a replacement dowel? No offense, but that sounds a little contradictory to me............................

 

I understand that most luthiers cringe at the idea of stuffing a screw hole with tooth picks and wood glue. They will be the first to break out the drill and the dowel. While I agree it's a good fix for a stripped hole, I'll also say that it's basically no better than a properly executed tooth pick and wood glue job - with no drilling needed and the results the same. I've done the tooth pick fix numerous times and it's worked and lasted every time. Not every player has a luthier on call or the skills to pull off a drill / dowel job - especially in a "need it right now" jam.

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Why hasnt anyone confirmed this then?! People are saying you have to. So what has to be filed ect? Just the standard strap holder?

 

I can confirm, that you are reusing the same holes the original strap button uses. The forward screw can be reused with the Schaller button. The afts one is too fat for the new button, so use the screw that comes with the Schaller, you will need a wood toothpick broken off to about 1 1/2 inches. Smear some Elmers glue on as much of the toothpick as you can, and drop it in the hole. This will fill the hole sufficiently to install the slightly thinner Schaller screw. Screw it down until the button is snug and doesn't spin. I put a piece of felt between the button and the body to prevent marring the finish. Hope this answers your question.

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I can confirm' date=' that you are reusing the same holes the original strap button uses. The forward screw can be reused with the Schaller button. The afts one is too fat for the new button, so use the screw that comes with the Schaller, you will need a wood toothpick broken off to about 1 1/2 inches. Smear some Elmers glue on as much of the toothpick as you can, and drop it in the hole. This will fill the hole sufficiently to install the slightly thinner Schaller screw. Screw it down until the button is snug and doesn't spin. I put a piece of felt between the button and the body to prevent marring the finish. Hope this answers your question.

 

[/quote']

 

This WORKS!

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You advocate not drilling the guitar in your first statement' date=' yet you want to drill the body to accept a replacement dowel? No offense, but that sounds a little contradictory to me............................ [/quote']

 

IF THE HOLE IS SHOT....

I believe that was the phrase I used, sorry if you missed it the first time around.....

:-)

 

Okay, seriously.

Toothpicks are NOT made of the finest Mahogany, and any glue is only as strong as the lame-*** material it's attached to.

Like Pine, for instance.

 

A Mahogany dowel is as good as it gets for a repair.

I bought one 36" long for $5, still have 30" of it left.

 

With limited luthier skills (I'm no expert) I would think it's even more important to understand the hazards of a half-fast job.

A strap pin would likely be secure in Balsa wood up until the first time you really put it to the test.

Then what?

Tears and anger.

 

Trust me, you will not lose a strap at a convenient time, when you are well-prepared to act.

Millions of stories out there of dropped guitars- including MINE, I'm just sharing what I know to be true.

 

I understand being in a pinch/gotta fix it now at the gig.

Problem is, almost EVERY snapped Gibson headstock I ever heard of happened at home.

Senseless.

 

Grain of salt not included.

 

Neo

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IF THE HOLE IS SHOT....

I believe that was the phrase I used' date=' sorry if you missed it the first time around.....

:-)

 

Okay, seriously.

Toothpicks are NOT made of the finest Mahogany, and any glue is only as strong as the lame-*** material it's attached to.

Like Pine, for instance.

 

A Mahogany dowel is as good as it gets for a repair.

I bought one 36" long for $5, still have 30" of it left.

 

With limited luthier skills (I'm no expert) I would think it's even more important to understand the hazards of a half-fast job.

A strap pin would likely be secure in Balsa wood up until the first time you really put it to the test.

Then what?

Tears and anger.

 

Trust me, you will not lose a strap at a convenient time, when you are well-prepared to act.

Millions of stories out there of dropped guitars- including MINE, I'm just sharing what I know to be true.

 

I understand being in a pinch/gotta fix it now at the gig.

Problem is, almost EVERY snapped Gibson headstock I ever heard of happened at home.

Senseless.

 

Grain of salt not included.

 

Neo

[/quote']

 

Neo,

 

I definitely see your point, but I stand by my fix......................................large round toothpicks set with quality wood glue. I've done this numerous times and the pegs stay solid. I can only speak from my own experience. It works.

 

 

I preflight every lock on every guitar before I play it - that's the pilot in me, and I don't leave any chances for a strap dive.

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I preflight every lock on every guitar before I play it - that's the pilot in me' date=' and I don't leave any chances for a strap dive. [/quote']

Cool!

I'm a private pilot myself.

Former crane operator of 15 years.

Chemical plant/refinery operator for 3 years, moved to power plants 6 years ago, nuke now.

Ride motorcycles to commute to work and to play in the desert.

Gun dealer/sport shooter on the side.

 

Big difference between danger and risk.

 

Glad to see there are people in this world who can avoid danger and actually assess/assign risk as an instinct.

Good on ya Buddy!

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Cool!

I'm a private pilot myself.

Former crane operator of 15 years.

Chemcal plant/refinery operator for 3 years' date=' moved to power plants 6 years ago, nuke now.

Ride motorcycles to commute to work and to play in the desert.

Gun dealer/sport shooter on the side.

 

Big difference between danger and risk.

 

Glad to see there are people in this world who can avoid danger and actually assess/assign risk as an instinct.

Good on ya Buddy![/quote']

 

Very pleased to meet another fellow aviator!

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IF THE HOLE IS SHOT....

I believe that was the phrase I used' date=' sorry if you missed it the first time around.....

:-)

 

Okay, seriously.

Toothpicks are NOT made of the finest Mahogany, and any glue is only as strong as the lame-*** material it's attached to.

Like Pine, for instance.

 

A Mahogany dowel is as good as it gets for a repair.

I bought one 36" long for $5, still have 30" of it left.

 

With limited luthier skills (I'm no expert) I would think it's even more important to understand the hazards of a half-fast job.

A strap pin would likely be secure in Balsa wood up until the first time you really put it to the test.

Then what?

Tears and anger.

 

Trust me, you will not lose a strap at a convenient time, when you are well-prepared to act.

Millions of stories out there of dropped guitars- including MINE, I'm just sharing what I know to be true.

 

I understand being in a pinch/gotta fix it now at the gig.

Problem is, almost EVERY snapped Gibson headstock I ever heard of happened at home.

Senseless.

 

Grain of salt not included.

 

Neo

[/quote']

 

No doubt this is a much better and permanent fix. But I think if you make the change to strap locks right away, there should not be much danger to the screw hole augering out, and also will pre-flight each time, but if it does begin to get loose, I will definitely go for the mahogany dowel.

 

And since NeoConMan and I are from the same town, I'll try and enlist is assistance. =P~

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