newoldschool Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 I recently heard SGs were originally designed for use with 13 gauge strings... Is this true? It seems to explain why so many people have problems with their SGs staying in tune. Anyone here using 13s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigKahune Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 Holy smokes. I usually use 10s. And sometimes 11s. 13s must be tough to bend on. Anyway, I've never heard of 13s from the factory except on a maybe acoustics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbonesullivan Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 back in the old days guitars came with heavier strings. This is why the compensated solid bridges of that era are made for a wound G string. It wasn't until more recently that people started using "light" strings, which are much easier to bend though have less sustain and don't quite sound as good, imho. I also have no problems keeping my SG in tune. Proper post wrapping and lubricating the nut and bridge saddle will do wonders for intonation problems. keeping strings clean and fresh is also paramount. As strings oxidize they get thicker which makes the string less uniform, so it won't be in tune with itself anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hbomb76 Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 Back before I started having problems with my weak little hands, I had a '63 SG/LP Junior that I strung exclusively with 13's, and when you play a guitar with such heavy strings it makes you play different due to to the lack of bend-a-bility (found myself ripping out a LOT of Scotty Moore and James Burton-esque licks), but most guitars can essentially handle however light or heavy a gauge you wanna' use...provided you adjust your truss rod accordingly. Nowadays I'm using the Regular or Skinny-Top/Heavy-Bottom Slinkys, except on my Gretsch "Malcolm Young" (it has either 12's or 13's on it)...but everyone knows that you CANNOT get Malc's sound without heavy strings, a heavy right-hand and a lot of volume. H-Bomb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbonesullivan Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Thinking more, I believe SRV used .13's on his strats. Not sure what he used on his Gibbies. But man he must have had super fingers to bend those, even with the Eb tuning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newoldschool Posted January 13, 2010 Author Share Posted January 13, 2010 I have 13s on it now and have been considering a permanent setup for 13s with a wound G... Besides truss rod adjustment, is it necessary to have the nut AND bridge saddle adjusted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigKahune Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Welp, if yer gonna stay with 13s, you should have your nut slots and saddles set for the larger strings to avoid pinch points and tuning problems, as well as a setup with the 13s installed to get the action where you want it with the proper relief. If it was me, I'd take it to my luthier/shop for the whole setup with 13s. Unless you're happy with it's current setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newoldschool Posted January 13, 2010 Author Share Posted January 13, 2010 Thanks BigKahune! The tint on the neck binding seems to extend onto the edges of the stock nut so I am debating whether or not to have it set up permanently with 13s (with a wound G), or leaving the guitar stock and using a regular (or possibly lighter wound G) having the truss rod adjusted only. Having taken that into consideration, what would you say is the best option... Filing or replacing the nut? Also, does the bridge saddle need to be filed (or just moved) to compensate for the wound G, or can a replacement be installed? Does any of this have an affect guitar value? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigKahune Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 Hmmm... tinting. Welp, you can always ease into it and save the nut replacement as the last option. You said you've already got 13s on it. So if your action and relief look okay, and you're not having any tuning issues, keep goin' with your current setup. You can always use nut lube if you've got pinch points. I use Big Bends Nut Sauce on my nuts and saddles (no pun) for pinch points and trem setups. Just keep an eye on your relief, and pinch points. If things are binding then go with the file job. If the action is not right then maybe a setup and tell your shop/luthier to try and keep the nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbonesullivan Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 take it to a tech. they can just enlarge the slots for the larger strings, especially if you now have a wound G. Also the saddles could probably use some work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yew Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 usually, you can get away with putting 11's on a nut cut for 10's as there isnt to much differance you might have to talke a little longer tuning though, but its not too bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newoldschool Posted January 14, 2010 Author Share Posted January 14, 2010 I'm torn between the two worlds. Right now using 13s (unwound G) but the action is too high. As much as I'd like to try a permanent setup for 13s with a wound G... I'm thinking maybe its best to stick with the original setup to save on having it reversed back if it doesn't work out... Also to preserve the original nut. Can you go back to 10s once the nut and bridge slots have been enlarged, without having to switch everything back? Any idea which gauge strings on a 2007 VOS SG factory setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeoConMan Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Can you go back to 10s once the nut and bridge slots have been enlarged... ? Should be no problem. And if it is' date=' a new nut will cost you maybe $50 with a competent luthier. Resale should not be affected, if it's done right nobody can tell. That's too large a difference in string sizes to just swap back and forth. You need to commit one way or the other. Take it to a couple good luthiers and get an objective opinion from them - just thinking about it.... See which one you like best, take back to him and [i']Just Do It.[/i] Then you can come to the forum and tell us all about it. If you don't like it, you're only out another $40.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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