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Remove Electronics - 330TD


Adaandvan

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I have in my possession a 330TD that has a faulty input Jack. Otherwise, all the electronics appear to work. This is a problem I could easily fix myself if the electronics weren't so hard to access!

 

Is there anyway to the jack without removing all the electronics, and even if there wasn't, what is the best method of removing all the hardware? Through the pickup hole? It would seem like I would have to pull pretty harshly to get everything out.

 

And even then, how would I go about getting everything back into place easily?

 

Anybody familiar with the model, I would appreciate the help.

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The best way to remove the electronics from an ES-330/Casino is through the pickup cavity. It's possible to do it through the F-hole, but since there's no center block, it's much easier to do it through the pickup route.

 

 

The only Gibson archtops that have access to the electronics directly underneath a cover, as far as I know, are the B.B. King Lucille and ES-333. The B.B. King doesn't have F-holes, so you'd be stuck doing it through the pickup route and a small channel in the center block, which is very inconvenient.

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Stewart-McDonald offers a DVD on how to rewire a 330. I have one (DVD, not 330) that I'll send you if you PM me with an address.

 

I bought it to help with my Sheraton II, which is a different beast entirely, so it did me no good...and now I have a 335, which has no need of rewiring.

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Thanks for answering guys.

 

Basically, I got the electronics out through the bridge pickup hole as a temporary solution and carefully looked it over. I ran a bunch of tests and although I am getting noise through the output and pickup response, there is no sound.

 

Anyway, I decided to completely remove the electronics and replace everything but the pickups, which are in working condition. I am aware a complete rewire is going to be quite the task. I noticed that Stew-Mac has some good full wiring kits, but obviously there is none for the Es330TD.

 

I am wondering if the Les Paul wiring kit would work as well. I know they both use the Gibson 500k pots, but I think that maybe because the Les Paul is wired for Humbuckers and the ES330TD for P-90's, there may be a difference in the wiring.

 

If anybody can offer a viable solution. Shoot.

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It sounds like you have a bad solder joint somewhere, or an intermittent connections in the line.

It could be as easy as re soldering the connections, or as bad as replacement. I would go step by step and resolder first, then wiggle the wires to see if the connection is now made, if not proceed to the next etc.

This is also a great time to think about upgrading the pots, caps and switch.

Here's a link to Mojo's installation of their pre wired assy.

Good Luck.

 

http://www.mojotone.com/iMojo-Videos/Installing-a-Mojotone-335-Assembly

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Thanks for answering guys.

 

Basically' date=' I got the electronics out through the bridge pickup hole as a temporary solution and carefully looked it over. [/quote']

 

Errr..... this might be a bit late in the day.... but you did tie string or wire round the pots, switch and jack before removing them and leave it in place through the holes so as you could re-attach it and pull them back through the holes again when you re-install them... didn't you?

 

Hope you did,

 

T21

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Errr..... this might be a bit late in the day.... but you did tie string or wire round the pots' date=' switch and jack before removing them and leave it in place through the holes so as you could re-attach it and pull them back through the holes again when you re-install them... didn't you?

 

Hope you did,

 

T21

 

 

[/quote']

 

I actually made my own method of doing this in where I rap a line of solder loosely around the caps and jacks and pull them through like a needle and thread. It has worked several times. I probably removed and replaced the hardware over 7 times.

Appreciate the concern.

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To answer an earlier question' date=' Dan Erlewine used the LP wiring kit on the 330 in the DVD.[/quote']

 

 

Long Shaft Pots or Normal?

 

I think I am going to go with the Mojo 335 wiring kit. It seems like the easiest (although least challenging) choice. I'll take a look at the DVD and see what I am up against. Thanks again....again.

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Mojo Assemblies makes good stuff. I would have bought their harness' date=' but it came with 1" diameter pots and I had a Sheraton II with f-holes no more than 3/4" across. In the end I built a faux Mojo Assembly on a piece of cardboard using mini pots.[/quote']

 

 

Right...They explain about the pot-holes (no pun intended) in that video you linked. The guy used a power drill to expand the diameter of the holes. Not something I want to do...

 

Yea, so the 355 set seems perfect. I just need shielded cable to go from pickup to MOJO.

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The mods needed for the Mojo assy. is only on Epi and other 335 type that are not manufactured in the USA.

For the Gibson 335' date=' 330 etc. these are exact replacements and excellent parts, including the caps. So you would be fine with the assy from Mojo with it being a Gibson ES 330.[/quote']

 

 

yea, that seems to be the case. I just need some shielded cable to go from pickup to pot because the thing is pre-wired directly from these small pickup (+) (-) cables. StewMac has excellent shielded vintage push-back cables that directly resemble the ones found in the original, or I could just snip a bit from the old set-up.

 

Additionally, I got a small analog voltage meter and the pickups seem to be in working order. Nothing spectacular, but they are around 5k P-90's.

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Ok, so no matter what I do, I can't seem to get this right.

 

I ordered the 335 assembly from mojotone and attempted to install it. I believe I soldered and grounded everything correctly, with the shielded cable being connected to the ground from the pickup and then grounded to the pot in which the hot lead is on.

 

Now, when the guitar is plugged in, there is nothing but a loud hum. The hum increases when I touch any of the metal caps or the pickups, however, when turning the pots there is a crackle, which really doesn't mean much I guess.

 

The only other things worth mentioning is that when I tested the leads of the pickups before installing them, I had normal 5-7k responses on my analog VU meter (they are p-90's), but now, when testing the leads I am getting readings off the scale. I know this may be a sign of improper grounding, but this occurs even when the leads aren't connected to anything.

 

I'm pretty sure the pickups are working, considering they do react when touched but I have no idea how to complete this project.

 

I know I can do this, It is just getting really frustrating. Any help would be great.

 

-Jared

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Ok actual update which maybe someone can help me with...

 

I decided to test the pickups, since they are ancient, by connecting the leads directly to an input jack. Now, after connecting it I was still getting the same loud hum, but I slowly rotated the input jack till I got a sweet spot where it was working. I got full response from both the pickups.

 

What exactly does this mean? Are they too iffy to install? Was it my soldering?

 

This, I think someone could help me with.

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Hi, i'll put my 2 cents in.imho it sounds like a cold solder joint,maybe even a broken solder joint. is the ground at the input jack good? from what i get from your writing,that would be the first i'd check.the color of the solder connection should be shinny silver, this is the first indication. if every thing is good there, than retrace your path backwards and look at all the connections.If all is good , if you have some other pups which you know are in good working order, try them. good luck and let us know what happens.

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I like to use lengths of clear vinyl tubing available from hardware/home improvement stores. I select sizes that fit the pot shaft snugly, and use the tubing to direct the pot in whatever direction it needs to go. For the output jack, select tubing that fits snugly inside the hole in the jack. This allows you to pull the jack back into position after servicing and you can thread the washer and nut over the tubing and re-tighten the nut while holding the jack in position with the tubing. Once tightened, just pull the tubing out of the jack. This has worked well for me on Gibson ES series, Gretsch and PRS Hollowbody guitars and has been a real time saver. While you have the components out, be sure to clean all pots, contacts and solder joints.

:-k Good Luck, you will be an experienced Guitar Tech before you're through.

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