Laaz Posted January 24, 2010 Posted January 24, 2010 ABR-1 bridge posts from stew-mac..........now maybe they have some special tool for removal...I did'nt serch that yet. You use two nuts with the same thread as the posts. Thread the nuts on the posts, tighten the nuts together and then use a wrench on the bottom nut. They will unscrew as they were screwed in. I had to change them out on a old SG I had as I wanted gold instead of chrome.
tbonesullivan Posted January 24, 2010 Posted January 24, 2010 Hey Blackie When I checked mine out it looks like the threads go right down into the wood. Pulling would be a bad idea' date=' your right. Tbone where did you hear they are nailed in I thought I saw a pic that look like they were screwing it in. Like a lot of things I could be wrong. CW[/quote'] driven, as in, screwed with a driver.
Blackie Posted January 24, 2010 Posted January 24, 2010 You use two nuts with the same thread as the posts. Thread the nuts on the pots' date=' tighten the nuts together and then use a wrench on the bottom nut. They will will unscrew as they were screwed in. I had to change them out on a old SG I had as I wanted gold instead of chrome.[/quote'] AH so simple ..........
loneguitar Posted January 24, 2010 Posted January 24, 2010 First of all they are not nailed in period, there is a sunken thread that the thumb wheel and shaft screw into, I have a '91 335 so before yall start quoting learn a little bit. I stand behind my original post.
Blackie Posted January 24, 2010 Posted January 24, 2010 Well I have a 99 SG Standard that has the ABR-1 posts going directly into the wood, and an 09 SG RP with the nash in threaded inserts. So I guess they do it differently on hollow bodies. maybe I should clean my guitar off a little
Laaz Posted January 24, 2010 Posted January 24, 2010 maybe I should clean my guitar off a little Nah.. It's called Mojo.
cwness Posted January 25, 2010 Posted January 25, 2010 First of all they are not nailed in period' date=' there is a sunken thread that the thumb wheel and shaft screw into, I have a '91 335 so before yall start quoting learn a little bit. I stand behind my original post.[/quote'] You just don't want to get it. Your in the Les Paul forum and your talking about your 335 as a comparison. Does that make sense (solid body vs a hollow body. As far as the nailing Tbone explained driven as in screwed in not driven as I thought with air. My first post was accurate you just wanted to make a scene and then instead of saying I was wrong you went straight down you favorite path. Take a look at Blackies pic the Les Paul with a ABR-1 is installed the same that should clarify it for ya. CW
The Mick Posted January 25, 2010 Posted January 25, 2010 Another week end' date=' another question for you guy : I would like to know on which side should the Tune-O-Matic be installed : 1) with screws looking toward the stop bar, or, 2) with screws looking toward the bridge pick up. Seems like both ways are ok, I've seen brand new Les Pauls with both situation. But is there an official side ??? Thanks again. [/quote'] To the original question if you have the screw heads on the stop bar side you run the risk of your strings coming into contact with the screw heads unless you raise the stop bar and I don't like to raise the stop bar. As well it's easer to get a screw driver in to adjust your intonation.
Lowdown Posted January 26, 2010 Posted January 26, 2010 It does not matter which way it faces' date=' there is no right or wrong. All that matters is that the guitar intonates properly. The top of the saddles are sloped to one side to give you more "adjustment" depending on which way it is facing. On all guitars the saddle adjustment requirements will dictate which way it faces. [/quote'] The answer.
rockstar232007 Posted January 26, 2010 Posted January 26, 2010 The ONLY time it really matters which way the screws face is when a Bigsby (or other similar vibrato) tailpiece is installed/in use, because if the screws are facing the pickup, they risk the chance of being pushed up due to the rocking motion of the bridge, which can cause them to work themselves up and touch the vibrating strings.
Lowdown Posted January 26, 2010 Posted January 26, 2010 First of all they are not nailed in period' date=' there is a sunken thread that the thumb wheel and shaft screw into, I have a '91 335 so before yall start quoting learn a little bit. I stand behind my original post.[/quote'] :-
56LP Special Posted January 26, 2010 Posted January 26, 2010 I found the original question interesting because I've pondered that same question many times before. Even though I have worked on hundreds of Gibson guitars over the years, (both brand new and vintage) regardless of the model, the bridge can be found facing either direction. L5 Larry hit the bullseye when he described that the individual saddles can be oriented for more adjustment and Rockstar pointed out that the bridge may be easier to adjust depending on whether the guitar uses a stop tailpiece or other type. IMHO, I think that in addition to these factors, the choice of bridge orientation at the factory may also be the result of minute variations in the manufacture process. If the holes for the bridge stud bushings are drilled even a fraction of an inch off or the settling of the glue in the neck joint or nut are not dead on, then a decision has to be made when final intonation is set up. This may explain why even new Gibsons may be delivered with the bridge facing either direction. It would be interesting to hear from the shop personnel at Gibson on this.
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