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Ways to get rid of fretbuzz


rockman82

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On the Epi I don't think there is a nut that comes off.....I have one but have not needed to do any adjustment on it. As for the 1/4 turn a

day thing..........While you should be careful I don't buy that........I have slowly moved the neck on my Gibson SG from relief to straight and back all at

one time with no weird after effects or over movement seen. I mean if the techs followed that there would be a 2 month back log to get a set up.

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Blackie, the pressure that techs are under to turn a job around quick means that sometimes necks don't have time to settle to the new truss rod tension. As a result, problems can re-occur (there has been several posts where people had their guitar setup, and buzzing returned soon after).

 

There are 2 schools of thought regarding the measurement of neck relief. The traditional Gibson method is to measure relief at the 6th fret when a straight edge is placed between the 1st and 12th frets. From memory, I think Gibson recommended a figure between .004 and .008" (near enough 0.1 - 0.2mm).

 

The other method is place the straightedge across all the frets, and measure relief around the 9th fret. Some manufacturers are recommending this way (Fender and PRS are two).

 

I use the Gibson method because the truss rod is designed to adjust relief between the nut and the 12th fret. There is no relief beyond the 12th fret, so there is no point looking for it.

 

This has been discussed before, and there is a Gibson setup document showing the process. However... there is a Gibson factory tech who is pictured measuring relief with a straightedge placed across all the frets. Maybe he's ex - Fender [cool]

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Not sure I agree about the relief stopping at the 12th fret..........but I have no proof at hand .....just that if the 12th fret remained the same

then relief would seem to be pointless as the string vibrates in a manner that at it's center would be the point of most travel.

I have just read up on it and the point where the neck meets the body and length of neck is cited....so on an SG the 7th to 9th

fret would be the point of most releif.

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The official Gibson document states that relief is measured between the 1st and 12th frets. There is a lot of misguided opinion regarding measuring relief from the point at which the neck joins the body. If we were to follow this thinking, an SG neck would be set up differently to a Les Paul neck...

 

There is no need for relief beyond the 12th fret. The truss rod is a Gibson innovation dating from 1922, and they knew what they were doing. It's quite complex to go into into, but I would just say make some adjustments to a truss rod, and make notes of how the neck responds. You will find that all the changes occur between the nut and the 12th fret - with the centre of the movement being the 5/ 6th frets.

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Hi Again

 

I think measuring relief (and how you do it) only really matters for documentary/comparative purposes e.g. reproducing the settings of another person (or your own). I suggested it to the OP purely from the point of enabling him to get a ball park figure for typical settings so he knows he's working in the right sort of ranges. Otherwise, the eyeball and feel method is all that's needed IMO.

 

Alan

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Alan, no one could go wrong following your clear advice. I would just add that eyeball and feel come with a few years experience !

 

Everyone has played particular guitars that play easier and sound better than others. For those interested in such things, examining string height, fret height and neck relief provides some of the answers. At the core, it's all about finding out exactly what's happening - because then you know what needs to be done.

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