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Gibson LG-0 Restoration


gibbylgo22

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Hi,

 

I'm new to the Gibson Forums. I have recently come across a 1960s Gibson LG-0. It came equipped with the original plastic bridge. I have removed that and have since purchased a rosewood reverse belly bridge as a replacement. The next step is to glue and clamp the bridge into place. However, I am no experienced guitar technician!

 

I am only 40$ and a pair of old shoes into the guitar and feel its worth experimenting with (since the professional cost of repair is too hefty)

 

Can anyone provide advice as to how to go about installing the bridge correctly (i.e. best type of glue, clamping techniques, sanding?)

 

Also, once the bridge is installed, I intend to replace the bridge pins and saddle with another material. I was thinking ebony, tusq, or bone. I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations specific to the LG-0 (which material suits it best).

 

Lastly, if you change the bridge pin and saddle material, is it necessary to change the nut as well. (additionally, is it necessary to be consistent with the materials used--i.e. the same material for each piece?).

 

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks for your advice,

 

Tom

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Check out this link: http://frets.com/FretsPages/Blogs/37D28/37d28_4.html

 

This is just one day (of 18?) in the life of this restoration. Be sure to check out the whole process on the other days. Also check out frets.com Frank Ford is a guru!

 

The nut material does not have to be changed just because you change the saddle. I would use bone for saddle, pins and nut if you do change it.

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Plus 1 on the umgf recommendation. Go to the Technical section and ask, you'll gets lots of help. Getting the intonation right when replacing the bridge and saddle are very important. Don't assume that the old location of the bridge was exactly correct. As far as material, I'd agree bone would be a good choice. If you have the pd saddle, you can send it to Bob Colosi and he will make you a new one out of any material you desire. No need to replace the nut, it has very little effect on the tone.

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What you want to do are pretty much standard upgrades which lots of folks do with all kind sof guitars.

 

In my opinion, the one thing that you really need to look at on an LG-O is the bridge plate. Rather than being made of some strong and rigid wood, they are made of soft wood and the strings can literally chew their way through it. I have seen more than a few that were really a mess.

 

A proper bridge plate will make a bigger difference in sound than changing out saddles and what have you.

 

Good Luck with the project.

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It also depends of course on if you really want to keep every spec vintage (bone for nut and saddle would be the right choice), or upgrade the guitar to modern specs (a graphite nut and tusq saddle), and choose for durability.

 

Kind regards,

 

 

Stijn Vergeest

Gibson Europe Customer Service

00800-4GIBSON1

00800-44427661

www.gibson.com

service.europe@gibson.com

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UPDATE.

 

I just got done gluing/clamping the new bridge to the guitar. I am pretty satisfied with my clamping contraction. I will give it a day to dry completely. Hopefully, it works out well and holds.

 

Thanks for the responses. I have decided to replace only the saddle and bridge pins for now and have decided to use BONE.

 

As for the saddle, can someone explain the difference between compensated and not compensated. Which would be better for the LGO.

 

Thanks,

 

Tom

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A compensated saddle basically has the B string area filed to make it intonate properly at the 12th fret. My LG1 has a compensated bone saddle that was made by my luthier/tech when he reset the neck. I can certainly make a difference on just about any acoustic if you play above the 5th fret. [biggrin]

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Does anyone know where I can find the orignal gibson lg0 pickguard?

Luck and eBay, most likely.

 

I'm trying to find the screws to attach it with. Somehow two of mine disappeared.

 

If you want a reproduction, I could trace mine for you to have made.

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