Another_Day_In_Paradise Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 Hey everyone! I've just started playing the guitar but I just feel like returning it and quitting altogether. I am on my second starter pack and second amp. I don't know if Guitar Center is just selling used stuff or what. My first guitar was scratched beyond belief and had a snapped string. I exchanged the starter pack for another with a dead amp...it took 30 minutes to get them to just switch my amp instead of returning the entire pack. It all sounded good until today. I have horrible static and I do not know what is causing it. If I mess around with the nobs of the guitar it stops but it sounds awkward. Sometimes if I hold the plug in tight it stops. I was thinking it was the guitar but even when the guitar is not plugged in the thing still has static. Could it be my wire? I would really like this issue resolved. If I can't fix it I am just going to return it and not bother playing this game with Guitar Center. How many defective products do they sell? Thank you in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 Sorry to hear it. GC ought to treat you better than that. You know, they don't touch it before it's sold. No test, no setup, nothing, just hang it on the rack and wait. You could have a bad cable. cheap ones. esp. the molded end type with thin cable can go bad just from looking at it. You don't have to overspend and get some fifty dollar cable.. any typical lifelines or other common name brand should be fine. You should try a cable, but if it were me.. I'd take the whole thing down to GC set it up and show them what it does before I bought one. then I'd try that cable out before I left. They should take care of this, even if it's just explaining something, but especially if you have a serious problem. Stand firm, the customer is always right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluefoxicy Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 What kind of price range are you looking at with the starter pack? For me I bought my amp and guitar separately. I actually spent $150 (you can do it in $140) on an Epi Les Paul Special II and $130 on a Valve Junior tube amp. You may want to get a $100 Roland Cube 15X rather than a tube amp; and if you get the VJ you definitely want to make sure you get V3. You WILL want the hard case for your guitar ($50). Mind you I was ordering online (from Musician's Friend, through Amazon, for the guitar). You're probably looking at somewhere around $220 for a Special II based starter pack versus somewhere around $250 to order the guitar online and get a $100 Roland Cube. Ordering the guitar online presents the risk of getting a suck guitar (scratched, broken, etc) and having to ship it back; but then, you have that problem in the store too don't you? (A lot of people are probably going to flame me for this...) Whether you get your guitar from GC or from an online store, you want to spend $50 on a hard case (eventually? Soon?) and probably pay a technician $60 to set it up for you (immediately). Change the strings immediately to something else--fender medium, DR MT-10 (my favorites), Ernie Ball, whatever--and get the guitar set up. The set up will cover a truss rod adjustment (controls the way the neck bows), intonation adjustment (tuned strings play tuned on all notes), action adjustment, and possibly tapping or filing down any frets that sit too high. Your guitar will feel and play much better when you get this stuff taken care of. On the subject of amps. A solid state amp like the Roland Cube 15X will let you model a lot of sounds and effects by turning knobs and switches. You drop $100, you plug in guitar, you turn up Gain, you get overdrive. It has some built-in effects too. If you just want to plug and play, this is your amp. A tube amp like the 5W Valve Junior will not do this; when you crank the amp up you'll overdrive the tubes with more volume than they can handle, and the sound will break up. It will sound different depending on how you pick, how you adjust volume on the guitar, how you adjust tone on the guitar, etc. I like the tubes, but I have earplugs (Hearos Hi-Fi, get some, $15/pack) so I can overdrive them without blowing my ears with the volume that high. That or I crank the volume and stick the amp in the next room (actually, 2 rooms over). Yes, I'm talking about a 5 watt amp that can bypass the neighbors completely and wake the police at 3/4 volume. Are you taking a music class or teaching yourself? I've personally found the Troy Stetina books to be of great use; there's metal stuff, and rock stuff. If you want to pick up the metal books I recommend Metal Rhythm Guitar Volume 1 and Metal Lead Guitar Primer to start. In either case, you want to drop $20 on a copy of Fretboard Mastery, especially if this is your first instrument; that book has tons of ear training exercises and teaches you everything about notes, intervals, chords, scales, etc, against guitar tabs, so you know where things go on the fretboard. I think the end goal is to make you play guitar by ear without actually learning the songs, just listen once and hammer it out; how well you'll do that is up to you. Don't fool yourself into thinking music is a cheap hobby. You can defer the costs and grab a $140 guitar and a $100 amp; but without getting the guitar set up or at least making the adjustments yourself, it's going to sound bad and feel hard to play. You want a guitar with at least proper intonation (adjust the bridge saddles), and keep it in tune (use an electronic tuner); and a hard case lets you move your guitar from one place to another without worrying that you just banged the flimsy gig bag into a wall and dented the guitar inside. When you've played guitar and you're good at it, you're going to start realizing that you're walking into Guitar Center and picking up random guitars to hear their sound. You'll start to appreciate the sound of a good guitar and a good amp. This means that, in the future, you're going to want a better guitar (say, $370 for an Epi Les Paul Standard; $500 for an Epi 1958 Explorer; etc); you'll probably find that you want to replace the pickups ($70 each for DiMarzio Super Distortions, I'd go with); you might want to buy a better amp or mod a Valve Junior, etc. You might even buy two or three guitars, each with their own feel and sound (a strat versus an explorer versus a Les Paul versus another Les paul all sound different and play different), and actually play them all at different times depending on what you want to play or what kind of sound you want to get. Don't be surprised when it happens :- And don't quit your day job to go start a band and get gig money, unless someone offers you a hard-core contract to make a living in a band getting gig money. Playing at clubs at night, that's doable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpkg Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 Hey man, DONT QUIT! bad gear makes things a drag, but its not you or your abilities, its the bad gear. I would do want the previous poster said, get an epi lp special or try the agile guitars at Rondomusic.com. serious guitars for the money. and then get one of the amps he mentioned. I think you would be much happier and when you have good gear your practice and playing is MUCH more rewarding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Another_Day_In_Paradise Posted February 9, 2008 Author Share Posted February 9, 2008 My starter pack cost me 300 dollars. It came with a Les Paul 100, Electric Tuner, 3 picks, a stand (was really bad so I spent $15 on a different one), a cable, gig bag, and an Epiphone Valve Junior 5 watt tube amp. So what you guys are saying is that I should return it and buy all the stuff seperately? Wow 60 dollars to have a technician set it up. Kind of expensive :P Is it recommended to have a friend of mine do it? He has been playing for a long time. So Twang you think the static is from the cable? It does look to be a really cheap one. It is just getting really annoying going to Guitar Center and have them going "Hold on bro I'll be with you soon." 20 minutes later they say the same thing. It takes forever just to get some help. I would gladly get all this stuff from somewhere else but unfortunately I don't know of any other guitar places around me. Oh and I'm teaching myself bluefoxicy. I do have a 25 dollar Borders gift card so I can use that to buy the book that you mentioned. I was also thinking of taking Guitar courses at my College during the Summer. BTW: I appreciate everyones help. Great suggestions everyone thank you so much! PS: I did adjust the neck myself because it had horrible rattling. It only happens a few times now but I think now it's just me. How would I know if I adjusted it well? Like if it isn't to much. I read the manual and use the tool it came with. The reason I am just picky about spending to much is because Spring Semester just started and my books cost an arm and a leg. Even on Amazon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluefoxicy Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 My starter pack cost me 300 dollars. It came with a Les Paul 100' date=' Electric Tuner, 3 picks, a stand (was really bad so I spent $15 on a different one), a cable, gig bag, and an Epiphone Valve Junior 5 watt tube amp.[/quote'] Ah I was looking at this: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Epiphone-Les-Paul-Special-II-Player-Pack?sku=518677 Figured you'd gotten that or similar, didn't know they shipped VJs with any of the player packs. (It's a good amp) Buy a cheap pack of Dunlop Tortex medium or heavy picks (I prefer heavy, but that's because of how I play) to go with your player pack. Check the back of your Valve Junior for serial number. If it's not 15 digits long, you have a V1 or V2. That's unfortunate because V3 is awesome and has actual proper innards; V1 and V2 have various design flaws that cause static and really poor sound quality. For now just ignore the buzz and hum. Get playing and you won't notice it. The stuff's easy to fix but if you have anything aside from a V3 there's one critical $40 upgrade to make. A V1 will need a DC rectifier added to the tube filaments to kill the hum, and it's super effective. $3, plus a $2 16V i.e. 3600uF capacitor to smooth out the voltage curve; ask a friend with soldering experience to do it, solder connectors to the bridge rectifier so you don't have to actually modify any part of the amp itself. http://www.valvejunior.com/ has pictures. A V2 will have a DC rectifier on the thing already. V2 and V1 both need the output transformer replaced with something with 5k of impedance, either one from a V3 or a Hammond 125DSE (or 125ESE, more expensive and requires drilling). That's a $40 mod though. Dropping in a JJ EL84 from Eurotubes.com will also kill a good chunk of the hum ($10, pull out the old one and stick the new one in). The stock tubs in a V3 include a JJ EL84, you can get a JJ 12AX7 gold pin matched/balanced from Eurotubes for about $22. Tubes last you a year. So what you guys are saying is that I should return it and buy all the stuff seperately? You got a Les Paul 100 ($250) and a Valve Junior ($130) in that pack' date=' you got a good deal. The only issue you should probably see is if that VJ is V1 or V2 instead of V3. Again, mod it [b']later[/b] and/or buy a Roland Cube 15X to supplement. Buy some delron picks, like Dunlop Tortex. Wow 60 dollars to have a technician set it up. Kind of expensive Is it recommended to have a friend of mine do it? He has been playing for a long time. If your friend adjusts his own intonation and action go for it. Truss rod... be wary on this' date=' because a truss rod break will break the cost of your guitar, and repairing it destroys the guitar in the process anyway (you have to use heat to melt the glue under the fretboard, which can help warp the fretboard, also melts some celluloid bits in the fretboard, etc). If he adjusts his all the time... make sure he can buy you a new guitar if he breaks it ;p Oh and I'm teaching myself bluefoxicy. I do have a 25 dollar Borders gift card so I can use that to buy the book that you mentioned. I was also thinking of taking Guitar courses at my College during the Summer. Fretboard Mastery is a great book if you've never touched an instrument; but it won't teach you how to read tabs. I'd go with Lead Guitar Primer to start off, assuming you want to play lead (i.e. solos). PS: I did adjust the neck myself because it had horrible rattling. It only happens a few times now but I think now it's just me. How would I know if I adjusted it well? Like if it isn't to much. I read the manual and use the tool it came with. The reason I am just picky about spending to much is because Spring Semester just started and my books cost an arm and a leg. Even on Amazon. Pin your finger RIGHT BEHIND THE FRET and squeeze HARD when you fret, if it buzzes it's wrong. I haven't adjusted my neck; as I understand you need a straight edge and the relief should be very slight. Yeah I understand the poor college student argument. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Another_Day_In_Paradise Posted February 9, 2008 Author Share Posted February 9, 2008 I think I have the V1. Because my amp only has a knob for volume and that is it Well...instead of spending money on modifications I would rather deal with it and buy a better amp when I get better. Wow didn't know my guitar costs 250 alone. That is nice to know Mine is a bit different from that picture. It has 4 knobs instead of two. Anyways I will go and buy the book you recommended tomorrow. When you said the adjustment to the neck should be slight...well I did it a lot more than that. The reason being was that it still kept rattling and rattling. I finally got to the point where it didn't rattle. Do you think I did it to much? I did what you told me to do just now and it sounds fine. You think I should readjust it a bit? Closer to where it was when I first got it? Last thing I want to do is mess the neck up. Thank you again PS: When I strum how hard should I do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluefoxicy Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 Note: I am assuming you have a V1. The DC rectifier mod doesn't apply for V2 or V3; the transformer mod doesn't apply for V3. I think I have the V1. Because my amp only has a knob for volume and that is it Well...instead of spending money on modifications I would rather deal with it and buy a better amp when I get better. The V3 only has a knob for volume too. On the back of the amp there's a serial number' date=' if it's 8 digits it's V1 or V2. 15 digits is V3. If it's a V1 (no real way to just tell that, but you can tell if it's not a V3; and if it's hissing that badly, it's probably a V1), do the DC rectifier mod. [img']http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/9812/pict0707et9.jpg[/img] See the little black square with the big blue capacitor on top? The two leads at the top are plugged into it; the two pink things on my board are where those two leads were originally plugged in, new plugs just jacked straight in from the DC leads off the rectifier. I literally build the thing and just dropped it in place, no soldering inside the amp. It killed off most of the hum. If the hiss is bothering you that bad, you can go as far as that on $8 (have a friend do the soldering for you if you can't). You may want to spend $100 on a Roland Cube 15X some time in the future even if you get the VJ working to your liking. It's an easy to use amp with a lot of sounds and knobs. It's a silicon based amp (i.e. microchips), so you set the gain and volume and effects and however loud or hard you play you get the sound you picked out. It won't respond to anything you do, it'll just produce the sharp overdrive or undistorted clean tones you wanted. It also doesn't take any maintenance; tube amps need you to replace the tubes roughly once a year (about $30-$40 for a pair of really good ones to fit the VJ). As for the Valve, a tube amp is COMPLETELY different than a silicon amp; your tone knob will do things to it, the pickups you use will do things to it, and the very way you pick will even cause slightly different tones to come out. If you like the Valve after the DC rectifier mod, there's two other things you want to do to a non-V3 VJ eventually: [*]First (and I mean first, literally), replace the output transformer with a Hammond 125DSE ($40 with shipping from RadioDaze) or (if you can find it cheaper) with the stock transformer from a Valve Junior V3 (5.2k impedance). This will make a HUGE difference in tone and tube life. [*]Second, go to EuroTubes.com and buy a $10 EL84 (I like a grade 35; you can e-mail them and they'll talk nice with you) and a $22 gold pin matched and balanced 12AX7 to replace the tubes you currently have; replace these each year if you play it like every day or a couple times a week or so. You should notice that at this point there's $8 of do-this-right-now (DC rectifier); $40 of definitely-do-this-later (output transformer); and $32 (probably $40 after shipping) of do-this-once-a-year associated with the tube amp you have. That's a definite $100 you'll spend associated with this year (you'll only spend the $8 and $40 once, but even if it's in 5 years it's still a result of getting the amp, so it's associated with this year as a unit). You have exactly one advantage here: You can drop the $8 now on adding the DC rectifier to the tube filaments, and if you have $100 on hand later and decide you really don't like the tube amp you can just go buy the Roland Cube and forget about upgrading the tubes the rest of the way. When you said the adjustment to the neck should be slight...well I did it a lot more than that. The reason being was that it still kept rattling and rattling. I finally got to the point where it didn't rattle. Do you think I did it to much? I did what you told me to do just now and it sounds fine. You think I should readjust it a bit? Closer to where it was when I first got it? Last thing I want to do is mess the neck up. Euh. As long as you didn't snap the neck or break the rod you're fine' date=' but you should have slight relief. If you pay a tech to set it up they will either tap or file your frets to make them lower if they're too high (which causes string buzz too). Low action, poor truss rod adjustment, and high frets all cause buzz. You're only going to learn this by experience; if the guitar resists what you're doing to it though, stop and ask someone else. "It suddenly got harder to turn" is usually followed by "so I pushed harder, and broke it." PS: When I strum how hard should I do it? As hard as you damn well please. You should hold the pick lightly; as it contacts the strings, well, ever take a baseball card to bike spokes and it bends out of the way and rattles? You're doing that with the pick. I use a harder pick because it gets me a sharper attack; I'm not digging in under the strings and yanking them to the side, if I did that I'd be even slower than I am now! Wikipedia is awesome, you know that? http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Guitar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cGil Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 $60 for a guitar setup? From the store that sold it? That stinks! Play your friend's guitar. If it feels right to you, get him to show you how to tweak yours. Meanwhile, you might want to take a peek into Dan Erlewine's book "How to make your Electric Guitar Play Great!, The electric guitar owner's manual" ISBN 0-87930-601-7. $19.95us That book was one of the best investments I ever made for the care and feeding of my guitars. I do my own setups now, thanks to that book. Oh, I still get my favorite luthier to handle the more diffucult custom cut nut swaps, and he takes care of all of the fret levelings till I wear 'em out, and then he does my fret swaps cuz I know my limits. But everything else I take care of myself, and apparently I've saved quite a few bundles of cash over the years as a result. $60 bucks for a setup? Man! I'm in the wrong biz! I could do that in an hour and not break a sweat! Where do I apply? Gil... p.s. All 3 versions of the VJr have only the 1 volume knob. Version 1 amps only came in a combo version, and had the graphics line running through the horizontal centerline of the faceplate. Version 2 and 3 VJr amps had the graphic line at the top, running though the Epi logo. Version 3 amps have no "I O" letters on the power switch, a 15 digit serial number, and a 5k output transformer (it's printed on a label on top of the OT). Gil... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluefoxicy Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 $60 for a guitar setup? From the store that sold it? That stinks! Play your friend's guitar. If it feels right to you' date=' get him to show you how to tweak yours.[/quote'] Guitar Center here, no technician. Music store down the street has a technician that charges $60 for a setup. Guitar Center will take your guitar to do a setup, but in reality they have a deal: GC sends all tech work to that store, and that store refers anyone buying a guitar to GC. Technically Guitar Center isn't going to do a setup, they probably won't even offer him one because they don't have a tech. Meanwhile' date=' you might want to take a peek into Dan Erlewine's book "How to make your Electric Guitar Play Great!, The electric guitar owner's manual" ISBN 0-87930-601-7. $19.95us[/quote'] THANKS. p.s. All 3 versions of the VJr have only the 1 volume knob. Version 1 amps only came in a combo version' date=' and had the graphics line running through the horizontal centerline of the faceplate. Version 2 and 3 VJr amps had the graphic line at the top, running though the Epi logo.[/quote'] HI! I had no DC rectifier (V1) and both Sovtek tubes (V1), and the graphics line runs across the top. :S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cGil Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 That's odd. You've got one of the rare ones. Your amp must've been one of the last of the version 1 production run if it's got a version 2 paint job. Stuff like that happens. Did you know that the first production run of VJr cabs were closed back? Sure wish I had gotten one of those to stuff a Greenback into. Gil... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 You know, this guy is just starting and he's getting a ton of information about several different things all at once. you shouldn't tell someone to adjust their truss rod without going into detail, and not before they make a couple of measurements to see what the heck is happening with it in the first place. You can't expect to strum a guitar as hard as you please and not get some noise off the frets. I can make any guitar noisy by doing that. What he needs to do is look online for gibson specs and follow thier detailed instructions on setup. I'm sure it's just a google away, and well explained. What he could do is that and more.. right online. there's a site for just about every aspect of the type of guitar he's playing right now that tells how to check the nut slotting how to intonate how to adjust the truss rod how to adjust the bridge saddles, pickup height and more. No need for a book just yet, though I certainly would recommend it later on. I just think he can find the information if we would guide him to it and if he continues to play then buy books. I dont' think he needs to pay a tech for jack squat.. if he knows some more experienced guitar players, they probably know a bit more than him. double checking everything they tell you is a good idea. Many new guitarists have misinformation, though well intentioned. not to mention a lot of personal opinions. My local GC has a luthier. doing fret jobs etc at a bench right in the store. So, apparently they vary. However GC guys typcially aren't all that knowledgeable. They're salesmen. Look up as exactly as you can, what you need to know. Use Gibson instead of epiphone. it's the same design. For instance, Gibson Les Paul Truss rod adjustment.. or Gibson Les Paul intonation adjustment.. etc etc etc.. and try to read through as much as you can without doing anything... you'll have a better idea of what to do then. Check that cable against a better one. that makes no noise using another guitar. If it makes noise with yours, you probably have something simple.. for instance a loose wire.. a bad pot can cause static.. several things. Test with cable then get back to us. Sometimes beginners make terrible noises with thier amps because they don't realize most effects and overdrive or distoriton or even clean amp sounds can sound bad when you, for example, put them on 10. I had a behringer that simply couldn't handle anything above 8 on any control without some negative effect unless I was very careful about other settings. You could have a loose wire at the output jack causing the static, too. There is a lot of playing info on the web, too, so don't forget to google any tune you want.. just google like this..for example.. Beatles Nowhere Man tablature it'll pop right up. sometimes they get a bit wrong or it's incomplete, but you'll find a good site! TWANG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Another_Day_In_Paradise Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 Wow thanks for all these replies. A lot of things to take in :P Oh and for the tross rod adjustment I didn't do it enough so that it would break or anything. When I felt some resistance I pushed it back a bit. I read online that to check if it's right you should hold a string down with one hand and go way down and do it to another. Extend your hand to the middle fret of those two strings and see if their is any space in between. I'm sure I would know if my tross rod was broken. But like I said I didn't put any force into it. Oh and I did check to see if mine was a VJ3 and it wasn't. Oh well. I was planning on buying an okay amp with distortion, etc when I get better. What I am planning to do is learn how to maintain, adjust, etc my guitar on my own. I save a lot of money by doing my own construction work around the house, building my computer, etc. I am a hands on guy so if I research this it shouldn't be a problem. In the long run it would save a lot of money plus you get a bigger sense of satisfaction :) I'll also see how my friend does it first. My GC does have a technician that comes down once a week. I asked if he could do it for me they said "yes." I asked if I had to pay anything and again they said I had to even though I told them I just bought my guitar so it was illogical to be forced to pay for something that should have been done before it was sold to me. They responded by telling me that I can always go to the guitar store down the street and have them do it but it would be more expensive. Anyways, you all have been sooooo helpful! Very detailed and great posts :) Thanks a lot! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluefoxicy Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 What I am planning to do is learn how to maintain' date=' adjust, etc my guitar on my own. I save a lot of money by doing my own construction work around the house, building my computer, etc. I am a hands on guy so if I research this it shouldn't be a problem. In the long run it would save a lot of money plus you get a bigger sense of satisfaction :P I'll also see how my friend does it first.[/quote'] Good for you. That's definitely the way to go, plus you can charge your friends $20 or so to set up their guitar instead of paying $50 or $60 or so :) Really you need intonation adjustments every string change; and a fresh setup every 6 months isn't an extremely bad idea either if you can do it all yourself instead of dropping a chunk of cash on a tech. Not to mention, if at any point your guitar just doesn't feel/sound right, you can just slap it down and fix everything in 10 minutes. Wikipedia (and its sister sites) is extremely awesome... http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Guitar:Adjusting_the_Guitar HowAudio is really nice too, if you've got money to get into the site. The DVD for this is $25, whereas a month of access to everything is $20 (and there's other stuff you can try to burn into your brain in a month, but can you learn that fast?). http://howaudio.com/html/Video.aspx?mtid=GSM Advertisement: A note on intonation, you may find that even once you've tuned and adjusted the saddles the intonation still doesn't fall in right. Epiphone guitars have a rather narrow bridge. ignore it. Get as close as you can. A new bridge for a Les Paul will cost you roughly $100 but lets you fix the intonation; a few years down the line you'll probably face the decision of spending $150 on new pickups and $100 on a new bridge to upgrade your guitar, or buying a new $400 guitar (or a $3000 Gibson?) and doing whatever upgrades to that. This is not something you should concern yourself with right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Another_Day_In_Paradise Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 Yha what's important is that I learn to play :) I learned G,C, and D chords so far. Right now I am practicing on switching through them. Honestly...maintaining a guitar is more work than I thought it would be! But I think it will be worth it :) Actually, I know it will be worth it. PS: About my tross rod. I decided to do research on broken tross rods since I had to turn mine sooo much before the rattling basically stopped. Anyways it said that a broken tross rod would basically mess up the tune of the entire guitar and when you use the tool to adjust it it will be very loose. Mine does neither of those so I guess I got a guitar with a really loose tross rod or something. But now it's fine. I can't wait to start playing some songs :P Already have some songs that I know I will learn to play eventually. Dead or Alive, Saturday Night, Rebel Yell, Shadow on the Sun, Evolution...heh I am getting ahead of myself. Well thanks a bunch!!! Glad I came upon these forums. Very helpful and informative. As a thank you here is the video to one of my favorite songs :) http://youtube.com/watch?v=ToeY7MkCm0c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWANG Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 GC sucks for doing that. What jerks. TWANG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robo Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 I didn't read thru all of this, so maybe someone already said it. GuitarCenter, Musiciansfriend, and Music123 were all bought out by a capital investment firm by the name of Bain Corporation. They have all gone totally downhill in customer satisfaction. I used to buy from all three, no more. I'd advise buying elsewhere. I'm certainly not the only one peod at them. No setups, used gear as new, and don't stand behind their products or service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluefoxicy Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Could always start your own competitor. Open your own repair shop, when you're making more money start selling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Another_Day_In_Paradise Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 I didn't read thru all of this' date=' so maybe someone already said it. GuitarCenter, Musiciansfriend, and Music123 were all bought out by a capital investment firm by the name of Bain Corporation. They have all gone totally downhill in customer satisfaction. I used to buy from all three, no more. I'd advise buying elsewhere. I'm certainly not the only one peod at them. No setups, used gear as new, and don't stand behind their products or service.[/quote'] Yha I noticed that they were re-selling my first pack with the scratched up guitar. They retaped it. I was able to tell by the box. Really dirty of them to do that. Sucks for the person who is going to pick that up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluefoxicy Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 Tell Epiphone what store it is and let them ***** at them ;p Well, I don't know if Gibson cares about Epiphone that much; but if someone did that with a Gibson brand I'd imagine there'd be hell to pay for soiling their major-high-dollar brand name. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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