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Sheraton F hole size...


stan 58

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First' date=' I know i'm opening the door for a slew of F hole jokes, but i've heard a couple of members say that the size varys and I was wondering what the story is. Stan.[/quote']

 

I noticed that everytime you start a topic everybody sugests ubscene gestures lol

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I don't care for the appearance of the f-holes that only vaguely resemble an "f-hole". You know the ones where it looks like the hole was hammer-stamped through the top and then edged with an axe rather than being sawn out and finished with real files and sandpaper. The diamond cutouts must a lot easier to do right and proper, I would think. F-holes must be a carryover from the days when each instrument was handcrafted and embellished within an inch of its existence. I can't think of any reason for them to be that particular shape, except for adornment.

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F-holes must be a carryover from the days when each instrument was handcrafted and embellished within an inch of its existence. I can't think of any reason for them to be that particular shape' date=' except for adornment.

[/quote']

 

There was also a practical purpose. If you draw a line from the two inner points of the f-hole, you will notice that's where the bridge lies. In the old days of big archtops and floating bridges, this was a way of telling where the bridge should be if you remove the strings and the bridge came off.

 

Besides traditional f-holes, you have Trini Lopez diamonds, cats-eye slashes (Gretsch & Rickenbacker), painted on f-holes (Gretsch), no f-holes (Al Caiolas & Lucilles)...

 

Trini%20Lopez%20Deluxe.jpg

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My '95 Samick Sheraton II has similar f-hoes to Stan 58's, but the knobs are in obviously different places. The "diamond" shape formed by the knobs looks different from mine: the topmost knob is higher on mine, the one to the right is lower, the one to the left if lower, and the bottom one appears to be in the same spot.

 

Measurements: the f-holes on mine are 6.25" from the inside of the binding on one end to the inside of the binding on the other; the diamond in the middle is about an inch high and .75" wide.

 

I don't see any instructions for posting photos, and my links to Flickr don't seem to work, so that's the best I can do.

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OK' date=' maybe this is it.[img'] Epiphone Sheraton II mod[/img]

 

Edit: Nope, that wasn't it. Any hints?

 

My, how appropos your signature line - but I digress. Easiest way to post would probably be to open a free account on photobucket.com; and, because many of us use it, we know it works.

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OK' date=' maybe this is it.[img'] Epiphone Sheraton II mod[/img]

 

Edit: Nope, that wasn't it. Any hints?

 

2608180029_de93c7ecdc.jpg?v=0

 

lp, what you were doing wrong is listing the url to the webpage rather than the picture. Next time, right click on the picture, go to properties and get the url for the image itself. That's what I did here.

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EpiphoneSheratonIImod.jpg?t=1215994382

 

Like this.

 

OK, not like this! I'll work on it.

 

Thank you, anyhow.

 

As I was saying, you can compare the placement of the knobs with Stan 58's pretty black one, and note the creme rings and switch knob and gold speedo knobs.

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EpiphoneSheratonIImod.jpg?t=1215994382

 

Like this.

 

OK' date=' not like this! I'll work on it.

 

Thank you, anyhow.

 

As I was saying, you can compare the placement of the knobs with Stan 58's pretty black one, and note the creme rings and switch knob and gold speedo knobs.[/quote']

 

Go to the picture on Flickr and right click on the picture. Scroll down to properties and click on it and you will see that the Address (URL) is http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3116/2608180029_de93c7ecdc.jpg?v=0.

 

That is what you need to put between the html img tags.

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First' date=' I know i'm opening the door for a slew of F hole jokes, but i've heard a couple of members say that the size varys and I was wondering what the story is. Stan.[/quote']

 

My Sherry is a 95 Samick Stan, and the f-holes are definitely on the small size compared to yours. No full size pots are going through mine. When I had to replace one tone pot awhile back, it had to be a mini. I'm still contemplating push pulls for the complete rewire, I've just been too lazy to see if they will fit. I really want to split the coils.

 

And Yeah, thanks for opening the door for the f-hole jokes !, I'm sure they will only get worse bro !

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I have a 2007 Unsung-made Sheraton. I measured the f-holes last night and they were approximately 1 1/4" by 7/8" through the center of the f-hole. But I also have the cutouts in the pickup cavities so, if I rewire, I will probably go that way rather than through the f-holes. I also have the connectors for pickups so, I may try finding some molex connectors to use before I replace everything.

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I have a 2007 Unsung-made Sheraton. I measured the f-holes last night and they were approximately 1 1/4" by 7/8" through the center of the f-hole. But I also have the cutouts in the pickup cavities so' date=' if I rewire, I will probably go that way rather than through the f-holes. I also have the connectors for pickups so, I may try finding some molex connectors to use before I replace everything.[/quote']

 

That pretty much settles the question. F-hole size does vary among the different factories, and may also vary from year to year.

 

As I may have said, I acquired the Sheraton via a multiple-amp-bass trading deal, wherein I ended up with a lightweight Hartke rig for bass instead of a '63 Ampeg B15N that required constant maintenance and weighed a ton, and an Ampeg B100R which had the single fault of too much weight, and a Fender Jazzmaster Ultralight guitar amp (25.5 lb) for which I traded in a Music Man HD130 Reverb + 212 cab (144 lb) not to mention an 88 lb Hartke XL410, and along the way I shed the 91 lb Carvin X amp in the oak cabinet. This process took a couple of months, and I had told the store owner I was looking for a natural finish Epi SII. He said that a local guitar tech had one he was going to bring in on a trade, and, as it happened, the day I brought in the Music Man the Epi had just shown up the day before.

 

In other words, it was quite a fortuitous occurrence, and I'm not at all disappointed that I ended up with one that had small f-holes.

 

Especially now that the job is finished.

 

It sounds as though yours will be quite straightforward to change out pickups on. The only envy I feel is due to the fact that, if mine were configured like yours, I could solder Molex connectors onto a set of Gibson '57 humbuckers and find out if they're as good in Sheratons as I hear.

 

As an aside, the Jazzmaster Ultralight (I got the head and matching cab) represents the wave of the future. Saturday afternoon I took it to a friend with whom I regularly play and we compared it to his '67 Super Reverb, which has the sweetest tone of any amp I've played through. The results? The old Fender tank reverb sounded better than on the JM, and that's about it. It also weighs about three times what the little guy does. I think that once word gets around, these amps will take over the world...maybe I should add, it's my first and only solid state amp, so I know what I'm comparing it to.

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As an aside' date=' the Jazzmaster Ultralight (I got the head and matching cab) represents the wave of the future. Saturday afternoon I took it to a friend with whom I regularly play and we compared it to his '67 Super Reverb, which has the sweetest tone of any amp I've played through. The results? The old Fender tank reverb sounded better than on the JM, and that's about it. It also weighs about three times what the little guy does. I think that once word gets around, these amps will take over the world...maybe I should add, it's my first and only solid state amp, so I know what I'm comparing it to.

[/quote']

 

I've had mine for about 2 years, and it gets lighter every year in comparison to my other amps. For a real treat, plug it into a big cabinet. Remember, its already designed with a 2 ohm load in mind, so you can plug into nearly any cab, or combination of cabs, and stay at or above a 2 ohm load at the speakers. The onboard effects aren't the very best, but I use the useable ones and probably wouldn't use phase or phlange anyway. A little reverb, a little chorus, maybe a little compression/sustain. Its a natural for the clean Joe Pass tones. Because it is so light, I can carry my Sennheiser Guitarbug remote/receiver and don't even need to carry a patch cord!

 

Congrats, sounds like you got some nice gear there!

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