epi valve std vs valve junior

[m-theory]

Most attenuators are non-reactive, which means the power tube will feel the difference and sound like crap.

 

I have to respectfully disagree with this opinion, as someone who's used both types. With both types will definitely alter tone, in direct relation to the amount of attenuation applied, I've found resistive to be far less abusive to the tone overall. At a certain point, both will molest the tone quite alike, but I found reactive loads to affect tone significantly at almost any attenuation level, while resistive does not do so at lower levels of attenuation.

 

That said, and without having tried VVR myself, but based upon only what I've read, VVR is probably far more favorable to attenuation overall, though not entirely transparent itself, either.

 

Ideally, the only way to TRULY retain tone is to run the amp as is, without attenuation or power scaling of any sort, and that requires varying sizes of amps to match different sized venues.

 

A VARIAC was only one small piece of EVH's rig, and he probably would've gotten by just fine without it, considering what else was part of the overall rig. That said, it's easy indeed to chew up NOS Sylvania 6CA7's when you rake in the kind of dough that he did (and, back when NOS cost little more than new production, of course!)!

[cGil]

Good points. In so much as speakers (reactive loads) have such a huge footprint on tone, I'd have to say that's a very good point. It should also be mentioned that speakers themselves just don't sound as good at whisper quiet levels as they do with a bigger signal pushing them.

 

And it's true that L-Pad attenuators like the Bad Cat Leash, and even an old Marshall Power Brake I had a long time ago did a truly fine job at gig levels and really only fell flat when called upon in a bedroom setting. There are some who'll say a reactive Weber Mass Motor is better suited for the higher attenuation settings needed in bedrooms and dorm rooms. And there seems to be a growing number of people who've tried the VVR and like it better than speaker attenuators, but obviously, not everyone loves that either.

 

Everyone's ears are different, so it's more important to know what the options are, so you can dig up the facts, as well as the reasoning behind the subjective opinions regarding each. With that you can be better prepared to go find the one method that works best for you. Personally, I'd be more likely to just use a post-OT line out to a headphone amp, and the most inefficient small speaker I can find to throw under a box full of blankets to shut it up. Or rig up a 12x4 instead of a 4x12, and throw 11 of 'em under the blankets. But that's just me. ;)

 

Gil...

[ladyscaglyc]

With the lower wattage in mind, does anyone have specs and/or photos of the soon to be released EPI Valve Sr.?

s/Vin

[cGil]

Nah. We've merely been thoroughly teased.

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ValveJrHRHD/

See what I mean?

 

Gil...

[Mattlikesguitar]

An amp would have to be 50 watts in order to be 3 db louder than a 5 watt amp. 2 db is the point at which the human ear can detect perceptible volume increase. A 30 watt amp would be CLOSE to, but not quite 3db over a 5 watt amp. You would certainly notice a difference, especially in terms of headroom

 

WRONG!!

 

a 50watt amp compared to a 5 watt amp is 10db louder.

3db is generally what people are able to perceive as a difference in volume. 3db is also what you get if you double the power ie 5W vs 10W.