pickpicker Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 hi, heard a lot about the improvement of tone by bypassing the DSP in Valve Special. Planning to do it on mine too. Is it just as simple as soldering a wire from VR6 to C6? thanks in advance for help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricach Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 I don't have a schematic in front of me for a Special, but if that's the obvious place, yes you just need to solder in a jumper - essentially shorting out the DSP section completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pickpicker Posted August 7, 2008 Author Share Posted August 7, 2008 thanks. here's the schematic i got from ppwatt.com valve special shematic hope u could help me on identifying the correct path coz i'm new to this kind of stuff. very much tQ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricach Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 Yes, you are correct. You might find it difficult to solder onto the middle tab of VR6, if so, then find C13 and solder onto the one side of that instead. Make sure you verify you have the correct side of the C13. This all can be done on the top of the PCboard so no need to remove it. If this is your first time soldering - find some way to practice before attempting on the pcboard. they don't tolerate much heat - especially several 'heating' cycles from failed attempts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjones200x Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 If im right in thinking you could put a switch it that line and mount it on the amp so you can switch it on or off If its only the one wire to link then surely this would work. Put me straight if not :- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricach Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 you could do that but i'm betting once he hears the difference - especially the big increase in volume and tone definition - the crappy DSP wouldn't be worth the switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pickpicker Posted August 7, 2008 Author Share Posted August 7, 2008 thanks for all the inputs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pickpicker Posted August 16, 2008 Author Share Posted August 16, 2008 jumper made from wiper of VR6 to C6 did not work for my amp, no sound. tried another jumper from outer rug of VR6 to wiper of treble pot and it's ok. yes, sound a bit louder and clearer. my amp's version is 0505 (printed on psb). but surprisingly, the dsp can still be switched on and works, i really don't why. Maybe i didn't really made the bypass, but the sound now indeed sharper and the treble control is more responsive. before this, i have to dial to max to play, now only need to dial to 2'clock to get better tone. or did you guys have such an experience? do you need to remove the small dsp board to completely remove the dsp? ps:/ i found out that there are 2 versions of valve special schematics. the difference is on VR6 position, one located after treble pot (before C6), the other after the dsp (after R41/C23). in my case, it is the latter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Lister Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 pickpicker -- WELCOME to the forum! The thread on bypassing the DSP was deleted by the EPI moderators some time ago. I cannot tell you how to troubleshoot your situation but, I'm re-posting some advice from cgil -- one of the forum's top modification experts -- that should put you on the right track. Best of luck. "There are threads over on PPwatt.com that describe eliminating the DSP, which will also dramatically improve the tone. An easy way to find 'em is look in the SEwatt FAQ's "In Depth Info" section where you'll find links to the major mod threads with schematics. http://www.sewatt.com/faq Gil..." Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby..., I'm going to play on:-" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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