Mr. E Posted September 16, 2008 Posted September 16, 2008 Hello, I was talking to my friend the other day and he asked me about guitar nuts. He has problems going out of tune because his nut binds. He was giving me all these options about how to fix it and he asked me for advice. I really don't know what to tell him so I came here to ask you guys. He said the following: *Locking nut with a fine tuning tailpiece ( I think it's this http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/PTTP030.jpg) *Graphite nut... but he asked me if it would affect sound. *A Gibson nut... asked me if it would help if replacing a plastic nut. The guitar is an Epiphone Les Paul Studio Thanks for your time and help
Ricochet Posted September 16, 2008 Posted September 16, 2008 First, if a guitar has tuning issues because of a binding nut, it makes sense to fix the nut before anything else... A locking nut would be an extreme measure. Lots of work and a totally different feel. Regarding the Graphite or Gibson/bone nut. Any of those would be an upgrade from plastic. Results will vary on workmanship. I would rather have a properly cut cheapy than a bone/graphite nut that binds.
Mr. E Posted September 16, 2008 Author Posted September 16, 2008 First' date=' if a guitar has tuning issues because of a binding nut, it makes sense to fix the nut before anything else...A locking nut would be an extreme measure. Lots of work and a totally different feel. Regarding the Graphite or Gibson/bone nut. Any of those would be an upgrade from plastic. Results will vary on workmanship. I would rather have a properly cut cheapy than a bone/graphite nut that binds.[/quote'] I'll tell him about the graphite nut or the gibson nut. I have one question... will a gibson nut work? I don't think the local guitar center will have graphite nuts so I could tell him to order it if the gibson nut doesn't work.
Ricochet Posted September 16, 2008 Posted September 16, 2008 There are no real replacement nuts that drops right in. Any nut will have to be cut and shaped specificly for that guitar IMO. No. The Gibson nut is the same dimension as Epis in length(42mm) and width(5mm), but differs in height.
Mr. E Posted September 16, 2008 Author Posted September 16, 2008 There are no real replacement nuts that drops right in. Any nut will have to be cut and shaped specificly for that guitar IMO. No. The Gibson nut is the same dimension as Epis in length(42mm) and width(5mm)' date=' but differs in height. [/quote'] How about if you sand the gibson nut? Would'nt it be like cutting and shaping any other nut to fit the guitar?
glenn1281733995 Posted September 16, 2008 Posted September 16, 2008 I think that Gibson nuts are plastic anyway. Naturally I stand corrected. You gotta get the nut slots right. Its easy as **** to clean the slots out a bit to allow the string to pass smoothly. You can also put a little lead pencil graphite? into each slot to provide a little lube. Works a treat. Like someone else said, a locking nut is a major undertaking and not really necessary.
djroge1 Posted September 16, 2008 Posted September 16, 2008 Fixing the nut already installed is probably the easiest and cheapest thing to do. I have this as a slight problem on my epiphone moderne on one string, but it's not bothered me enough to actually fix it - it's towards the bottom on my to-do list. This is what I plan on buying/doing: Go to:StewMac.com Mitchel Abrasiive cord buy the poper size cord (depends on what/which string(s) are binding) and try this. The only thing I don't like about StewMac is you have to place a minimum order of $30 then also pay shipping. However, Mithell Abrasive cord may be sold somewhere else without a min order.
Mr. E Posted September 16, 2008 Author Posted September 16, 2008 I think that Gibson nuts are plastic anyway. Naturally I stand corrected. Yep, you're right... the gibson nut is out
Ricochet Posted September 16, 2008 Posted September 16, 2008 I think that Gibson nuts are plastic anyway. Naturally I stand corrected. Well there is plastic as in the economy mold plastic as used by Epi.. and a boatload of artificial (plastic)nut material like Tusq, Corian, Slipstone(Delrin?), Nylon and 1 or 2 others I forgot. I think Gibson uses Corian.
GlennW Posted September 16, 2008 Posted September 16, 2008 Fixing the nut already installed is probably the easiest and cheapest thing to do. I have this as a slight problem on my epiphone moderne on one string' date=' but it's not bothered me enough to actually fix it - it's towards the bottom on my to-do list. This is what I plan on buying/doing: Go to:StewMac.com Mitchel Abrasiive cord buy the poper size cord (depends on what/which string(s) are binding) and try this. The only thing I don't like about StewMac is you have to place a minimum order of $30 then also pay shipping. However, Mithell Abrasive cord may be sold somewhere else without a min order. I agree, spend some time shaping the slots in the original nut. I just ordered a radiused neck sanding block from Stew-Mac and there was no $30 minimum; $21.45 total. It used to be a $40 minimum before the www. That's the first thing I've ordered from them since '95. They made me mad and I said "never again", but it was my only option for the block.
glenn1281733995 Posted September 16, 2008 Posted September 16, 2008 Well there is plastic as in the economy mold plastic as used by Epi.. and a boatload of artificial (plastic)nut material like Tusq' date=' Corian, Slipstone(Delrin?), Nylon and 1 or 2 others I forgot. I think Gibson uses Corian.[/quote'] Thanks Ricochet. Ive heard people say the Gib nut is bone and I know thats not usually true. I didnt consider that it might be made of a different quality plastic. I makes sense. Back to the OP, Ive never changed a nut (filed a few though). I researched the subject once and decided that the Graphtec and Tusq nuts seemed like a good economical replacement/upgrade to the std Epi nut. About 10 or $15 a piece, pre-cut.
james_edward Posted September 16, 2008 Posted September 16, 2008 A Tusq nut, which comes perfectly pre-slotted and fits Epi LP's and SG's with very little work, just filing the lower edge until the overall height is correct. I''ve fitted 2 LP's and 2 SG's with them and they work great, the slotting works perfectly for 9's and 10's but I've never tried a heavier string.
Stevie Nazarenie Posted September 16, 2008 Posted September 16, 2008 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250294585867 guitar grease.i just ordered some off ebay. especially good for tremmed guitar nuts...
carverman Posted September 16, 2008 Posted September 16, 2008 We're all guitar nuts on this forum.....oh..you meant guitar NUT, the latter, not the former...sorry 'bout that.
JeffW Posted June 7, 2009 Posted June 7, 2009 I'm about to replace the nut on my EPI G-400 SG. I plan to use a pre-slotted Torq nut in the "bone" color. Can anyone confirm the correct part number for this nut? I think it may be PQ-6060-00. http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?ProductID=137&CurrencyID=2
adzhamilton Posted December 28, 2009 Posted December 28, 2009 A Tusq nut' date=' which comes perfectly pre-slotted and fits Epi LP's and SG's with very little work, just filing the lower edge until the overall height is correct. I''ve fitted 2 LP's and 2 SG's with them and they work great, the slotting works perfectly for 9's and 10's but I've never tried a heavier string. [/quote'] which one fits the les paul? thanks i just want it fixed
Swoop Posted December 28, 2009 Posted December 28, 2009 The GraphTech website tells you which nut will fit on an Epiphone. http://graphtech.com/product-137-2/ This is the Tusq nut you need for Epiphone guitars. Or, if you require a black one, which you probably will on an SG, you can use the Tusq XL, which is impregnated with Teflon, which is excellent for reducing friction and binding. http://graphtech.com/product-311-2/ Plenty of folks will tell you that a pre slotted nut is useless, and that you need to have a nut custom made for the requirements of your guitar. However, the Graphtech Tusq nuts are an excellent, almost direct replacement. They are slightly taller than they need to be, and can easily be sanded down to the correct height. The string slots aren't all that deep and can be slotted more if need be, and the two I linked to are correctly spaced for Epiphones I have the XL on my G400, and don't experience any binding or tuning issues. I didn't with the old plastic nut either, but the slots were too deep and caused fret buzz. The XL does indeed increase harmonic content just as Graphtech claim. In fact the guitar is considerably brighter and sounds more defined now. Maybe a little too bright, but that's what a tone control is for! I don't have an issue with the nuts on any of my other guitars, so the plastic ones will stay. I don't really want to alter their sound either.
Swoop Posted December 28, 2009 Posted December 28, 2009 I should also mention I had mine professionally installed by a luthier who set the guitar up correctly.
brad1 Posted December 28, 2009 Posted December 28, 2009 The GraphTech website tells you which nut will fit on an Epiphone. http://graphtech.com/product-137-2/ This is the Tusq nut you need for Epiphone guitars. Or' date=' if you require a black one, which you probably will on an SG, you can use the Tusq XL, which is impregnated with Teflon, which is excellent for reducing friction and binding. http://graphtech.com/product-311-2/ Plenty of folks will tell you that a pre slotted nut is useless, and that you need to have a nut custom made for the requirements of your guitar. However, the Graphtech Tusq nuts are an excellent, almost direct replacement. They are slightly taller than they need to be, and can easily be sanded down to the correct height. The string slots aren't all that deep and can be slotted more if need be, and the two I linked to are correctly spaced for Epiphones I have the XL on my G400, and don't experience any binding or tuning issues. I didn't with the old plastic nut either, but the slots were too deep and caused fret buzz. The XL does indeed increase harmonic content just as Graphtech claim. In fact the guitar is considerably brighter and sounds more defined now. Maybe a little too bright, but that's what a tone control is for! I don't have an issue with the nuts on any of my other guitars, so the plastic ones will stay. I don't really want to alter their sound either. [/quote'] I agree with you 100% ! I have Tusq nuts on all my electric guitars. I recommend you buy them on ebay rather than Graphtech. You can find them on ebay for Half as much. And they work great.
Gordy01 Posted December 28, 2009 Posted December 28, 2009 Good call Swoop. I just saw Muzikron bangin' his head against the wall. He is of course, a professional tech and easily repairs these things. I am a part time tech. That means is I can do setups, fret levels and most other things. The only thing I haven't done yet is a complete refret. Fabricating a nut from a blank is the way to go if you have the tools. It's pretty easy. Cheapest too.
barrysrq Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 Another believer in GraphTech here. I put a pre-slotted ivory color Tusq on a Guild Starfire 12 string, and a black Tusq pre-slotted Epiphone nut on my Dot. Both required only sandpaper on the bottom to reach proper height, slight sanding on the ends to perfect width, and an Xacto knife and small file to clean the nut slot of old (factory) glue and excess paint. Both guitars have perfect string spacing and radius, and sound great! I have a metal straightedge ruler that fits from the nut slots to the bridge saddles to check nut height as I work, measurement at first two frets is easy. Middle and lower frets will look way off as neck "relaxes" without string tension. I am no technician, just like to maintain my own guitars.
AlanH Posted December 30, 2009 Posted December 30, 2009 Before you do anything too drastic, consider that the binding could be solved by simply putting on fresh strings if yours are getting old. A bit of graphite in the slots helps a lot too. Alan
bonzoboy Posted December 30, 2009 Posted December 30, 2009 Nut binding can be resolved in several ways:1.Go to a lighter gauge string,the present strings maybe of a heavier gauge than the nut was cut for. 2.Have an"experienced"tech redo the slots with a proper nut file. 3. Apply graphite or a "nutsauce"lube to the nut.There's also a possibility it may not be the nut at all,it could be too many winds around the stringpost,2 or 3 winds at the most are sufficent.The strings need to be stretched while tuning when changing strings,if not the new set will give constant tuning problems.The bridge itself may be binding and requiring lube.The cheapest option is to start with a string stretch and lube of all points the string touches the guitar,bridge,nut,string tees.If these methods fail go to a tech,that is of course after trying lighter strings. ---------------------------------------------------------------
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