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Epi LP nut question with pics


mrjones200x

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Posted

Hey there, would i be right to say that my nut on my standard LP is crap. Ive read on here befor that the slots should only be as deep as half the string thickness where as mine sit in quite deeply. This is how i got it back 6 months ago.

 

Would it be a good idea to get a nut made by a luither as an upgrade. The tuning is ok and is stable but i want to lower the action slightly more than now which will mean lowering the nut position as the bridge wont go much more with out there being buzzing. looks like the strings are higher at the nut end than the bridge end. (The neck was checked to be straight)

 

Hope the pics are good enough for you all

 

Thanks

 

There is a chip in the nut also by the 6th string where i dropped it on the floor! Thank god nothing else broke!!!

 

 

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Posted

I'd definately replace it.. the chip part is the finisher there.

You can get, Tusq-man made bone.. I was just going to put one up on ebay.

or you can get bone and have it cut for you.

I have bone blanks, but I hate to guess long distance on nuts, so I don't recommend that option.

Here's the deal.. you only 'need' the string to be a little over halfway in.. it can be more.. it's not a problem unless the string tends to hang up

in the slot.

So if your slots were deep, but V'd out toward the top, and the string didn't bind.. you'd be fine.

I prefer to file my nut tops down so that the wound strings are just in the slot.. a little over halfway.. and the high strings are almost even at

the top.

The reason for a little extra depth on the high strings is bending.. aggressive bending on an unwound string with a shallow nut slot can

wind up pulling the string right out!

 

So.. given the cost nowadays, and since Tusq and bone are both such very good materials.. I recommend you try the precut tusq nut.

You'll save yourself some money, and it should go right in, no problem.

 

If it weren't for that chip, I'd have probably said, just run a file over the top, strings off..and recheck a couple of times as you work

until the wound strings are for sure unfettered..not hanging up.

 

I can't quite tell from the pics.. so.. press a string at the third fret..

then look at the bottom of that string and the distance to the top of the first fret.. while you hold it at the third.

there should be just a hairs breadth there.

If it's higher, then you are not getting optimal action and the slots would need to be deepened.

wound strings usually need a thick hair.. unwound strings a thin hair.. so you can see by that description that

there can be a bit of difference, but favoring the wound strings a bit.. they tend to vibrate in a slight larger way, even

down at the nut.

 

TWANG

Posted

Fretted at the 3rd and the gap is quite big on all the strings. Less on the higher strings so maybe get new one done or get origanal one sorted by hole deepening.

 

That 6th string chip doesnt affect the string in anyway.

Posted

If you feel secure about that chip.. then just deepen your slots and file a bit off the top, esp. on the low side.

For me, that's a big chip. But looking a little closer, it looks as if filing some off the top will take it down to smooth. can't tell for sure,

but it looks like the chip is not as deep as more than half the string.

 

But I'd do that first for sure.. see how it is. less money, and pretty easy so long as you take your time.

 

if you don't have exact slot files for the lower strings.. you can use a string as a saw. short piece of string.. keep it very straight through the slot..

work it bit by bit, it'll cut! the main thing is to have a nice clean break at the fret side. but it's doable.

If you have some needle files or small files that will work. choose one slightly less wide than the string.. then use a used string

to get it fitting well. patience and good sense will do that job for you!

 

Good luck with it.

TWANG

Posted

Mrjones,

 

Hope all is well today.

Twang covered most everything.

Some of the guys did mention the other day that if you do not have needle files or nut saws (very expensive for one job) a set of tip cleaners from a cutting tourch make very good string files. Only a couple of bucks at the hardware.

My 2 cents:

When I sand or file the top down (after properly slotted) I do It just before changing strings. I leave the old strings on and sand the nut with them in place. I sand right into the strings. Helps to determine the height.

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