My first shot at doing a complete setup - bit of a snag

[BSAKing]

First of all, I am going by info from Basic Guitar Setup at

http://mysite.verizon.net/jazz.guitar/guitarsetup.htm#Truss%20Rod%20Adjustment

 

For my first attempt, I chose my Epi SST STudio since it is out of whack a bit and plays a little off.

 

- I checked the truss and it was dead level, so I gave it some relief to get approx .008 - .010" at the 6th fret

- the nut was dead on at 2/64 bass and 1/64 high E on the first fret - so good.

- the string height is way off at about 5/32 instead of about 5/64 which is what is recommended at the 12th fret.

 

Now - this type of instrument does not have bridge adjustments, so I was first thinking I have to notch the plastic bridge similar to what one would do for a nut, but in retrospect it of course makes more sense to remove the bridge and take a slice off the bottom to maintain the radius while having the desired string-fret clearance.

 

This thing has the shadow peizio pickup underneath the bridge, so by doing this I am placing the strings closer to the pickup assembly. Do I run the risk of having the sound distorted if I do this?

 

I looked around on the web, but (so far) have not seen anything that identifies a special type of setup for this type of guitar.

 

Before I proceed with something relatively drastic on the bridge, I thought I would check here to see if anyone here has experience with this type of setup and can lend a kind hand.

 

cheers... BSA

[BSAKing]

I went ahead and just notched the bridge - it did not take a lot. I put a little nut grease on the bridge and nut - we'll see how it works out...

 

The first time is always the hardest I guess - sort of an experiment.

[TWANG]

It's common to remove some material from the bottom of the bridge saddle.

It's always done to give good action.

Compensated bone saddles will give you better intonation, and better tone.

The thinner it is, the more signal will pass.. assuming it's nice and flat on the bottom so each string gets maximum signal.

Attack distortion is the first thing that would show up. Piezos are fairly harsh, even now, to start with, but I wouldn't expect any problem

with your sound greater than that inherent weakness.

Don't worry, be happy!

That would, in fact be the preferred method, but notching is ok, too. It'll work!

 

TWANG

[Whitmore Willy]

BSAKing, (and others)

 

I would first like to thank TWANG for his comments. He is a very helpful and knowledgeable contributor to this forum.

 

As a person that has, on occasion, posted the link you reference for setup I feel compelled to add my 2 cents

I have found that setup page very helpful....but ....be aware of a couple of things.

1. All specs on that page are reference points. As TWANG has often pointed out, nothing is written in stone.

2. Although the spec for the 1st string (high E) does state 1/64"at the nut, it is often hard to get much less than 1/32".

I believe this is due to the fret height on many Epiphones.

 

Many of us have mentioned the method for testing nut notch height. (also described in that tutorial)

You have obviously done a careful job of reading that setup page. I only mention the above because I would not want anyone to ruin a good nut and end up with undesireable fret buzz.

 

This does not seem to have been a problem in your case.

Congratulations on your set up.

[layboomo]

All good points....I'll just add that removing a little material from the saddle bottom is the least risky method. Once you cut a notch the saddle is toast if it's too deep. I always mark the saddle with a pencil along the bridge edge to give me a reference point as well. The compensated saddles work well as Twang has mentioned and they might be something you want to try. With those piezo style pickups you want to keep a good solid connection between the saddle and the pickup/bridge....so make sure you are evenly removing material.

[BSAKing]

Good idea! I just took a look on the web to find out what exactly a compensated saddle is (Google is a wonderful thing - lol). I'll play with my cheap nylon saddle a bit more here, but keep that option in mind once I learn a bit more on my 'cheapie' here!

 

As an aside, do people really notice a significant difference with bone nuts and saddles versus other compounds such as graphite compounds?

[layboomo]

Good idea! I just took a look on the web to find out what exactly a compensated saddle is (Google is a wonderful thing - lol). I'll play with my cheap nylon saddle a bit more here' date=' but keep that option in mind once I learn a bit more on my 'cheapie' here!

 

As an aside, do people really notice a significant difference with bone nuts and saddles versus other compounds such as graphite compounds? [/quote']

 

Actually Yes very much so! The difference between a plastic and bone /tusq saddle on a good acoustic can be astounding.

[TWANG]

yes... I guess I should have said draw a line down the edge of the saddle while it's in.. so you have a reference point for how much you take off..

you file it down a bit.. put it back in.. see how far deep the pencil line is beneath the edge and either stop or continue.

 

a compensated saddle has a forward edge and a rearward edge.. some strings go farther forward and some back..

the acoustic saddle is partly compensated by being at an angle instead of straight. but with a compensated top edge as well.. it will tune and intonate even better.

 

All the epis I've had here took about three soft swipes to level the frets.. I mean almost nothing! barely even needed to crown the things, too.

they've really done a good job with thier frets.

 

graphite and plastic are the last things I'd want in an acoustic saddle.

bone or tusq for sure.. I think you could find a tusq precut and compensated and you'll get more tone for sure.. same with bone.

 

but.. a nice flat bottom on that saddle will ensure your piezo gives you max. signal to each string so that's important.

I use brass bridge pins in my taylor, and I thought I heard a difference in tone.. a little more treble, actually, but not bad--even for a taylor which is bright to start with.

I tried them because they seem to be easier on the peg holes..but the blurb is better tone/more volume as well. ( hard to say how much if any )

 

TWANG

[BSAKing]

Yes - there sure is a lot to learn. But - on the upside - it's not rocket science. But it surely shortens the loop having people with experience provide the tips that otherwise might take forever to acquire. The whole fret levelling thing I have not looked at or gotten into yet. lol. Baby steps - right? Start first with things that I probably won't break.....

 

I called a local store here about the saddle and one of the things they also mentioned was that for the bridge saddle, a Tusq (is that how you spell it?) may be better since the density may be more consistent than a bone one. That of course could be important for tranferrance to the pickup assembly in my particular case on this guitar (Epi SST Studio). They also mentioned that I 'probably' would not find one off the shelf for my guitar, but would have to shape it myself(?).

 

He suggested I look on the web for Graphtech I think he said it was.

 

The nice thing I like about all of this is that it buys me independence and the wait for the local guitar store. I can set it up and if I need to adjust things - do it myself in the comfort of my home in front of the fireplace...... Plus it is nice just to understand how it all is done.

 

Here's an interesting (for me) install I found on the web... it may help someone else out as well...

 

http://www3.sympatico.ca/cill/saddle_install_inst.pdf

[theDeuce]

He suggested I look on the web for Graphtech I think he said it was.

 

Here's an interesting (for me) install I found on the web... it may help someone else out as well...

 

http://www3.sympatico.ca/cill/saddle_install_inst.pdf

 

 

 

Funny, note those install instructions are the actual Graphtec.com instructions! :)

[BSAKing]

I know! What an amazing coincidence...... ;^)

[BSAKing]

Well - I put it all back together and.... it sounded horrible! Very strident ringing - made it almost sound like a 12 string, but I had no fret buzz. I sat back and scratched my head, tried it through a few different amps and then.... (drum roll) changed the battery in the active electronics. Problem solved.

 

Funny how things can do that to give you a little 'gotcha' when you are in the middle of things. Glad I sat back and figured three times before I panicked and started tearing things apart again. lol.

 

Right now I have extra light bronze phosphor .10 - .047 on it. I think I will go ahead and investigate the compensated tusq bridge option for it.