pin won't comout the bridge on my epiphone masterbilt dr-500

[dynasty32]

I bought a epiphone masterbilt dr-500 two months ago. I haven't played it too much, and when I decided to restring the guitar today for the first time , I took off the sixth string.

 

However, the bridge pin on the low e, won't come out at all. I tried many times with lots of force and it wouldn't come out. It wiggles couple of millimeters back and forth, but I can't take it off completely. The other bridge pins comes off easily.

 

Also, I noticed that the holes in the bridge of the epi, didn't have any groove linings that strings can guide through, so they'll be aligned correctly. My yamah fg700s had groove lines in front of the holes.

 

Also I can't seem to string the 2nd string, the part where you put the string and the pin together, the pin wouldn't stay tight enough.

 

Keep in mind, when I had the yamaha, I never had any of these issues, and the guitar was alot cheaper. Do you think I have a faulty guitar, or is the masterbilt like this normally? Do you think I can get a replacement or a refund possibly, even though I got this 2 months ago, and i haven't played it for more than 20 hours on it.

[lostindesert]

Go to a guitar tech is the best advice.

Loosen all strings and push the pin out from inside the guitar.

On a good acoustic no force should be needed to install/un-install strings at the bridge.

 

Peter

[Just Strum]

To remove pins from my acoustics I've always used a wood shim and a pair of wire snippers. I put the shim on the open side of the bridge and use it to protect the bridge. I then lay the cutters on the ship and put the jaws lightly around the pin. Using the ship to assist with leverage, I push down on the handle and out pops the pin.

 

When you put the pins back in, don't put them in as tight as the previous person did. I've never had an acoustic where there were grooves in the guitar for the strings, only grooves in the pins.

 

I had pics of removing the pins, if I find them I will post them.

[theDeuce]

Stuck bridge pins happen. I doubt there is anything wrong with your guitar. You'll need to work them out with force CAREFULLY to avoid damaging the bridge or other part of your new guitar.

 

When you get the pin out you can sand it down slightly to give it some relief.

 

For the pin that won't stay while you tune up the string, just keep pressing it down while tuning up. Sometimes a third hand is needed. It will stay as the string tension comes into tune.

 

I have various guitars/pins with all these quirks. They don't bother me.

 

Here is a good reference for you at Frets.com (click) with some good tips and tricks to get stuck pins out.

 

BTW, some bridges are cut to lead the strings to the bridge, some are not.

[sangemon1281734057]

The best way to get a stuck bridge pin out is to reach into the soundhole with a quarter and push the pin up from the bottom.

[TommyK]

I like the wire nippers approach to grasp the head of the pin. I use my hand or a finger as the fulcrum. Why? If it hurts me too much, more so the top. If this doesn't work, without drawing blood, push from the bottom and / or grasp the pin head with a good set of pliers or Vise Grips, then twist and turn. (Replacement pins are cheap)

 

Not all bridges are slotted, i.e. a groove sawn on the saddle side of the hole to accomodate the string. Actually, I've seen very few new, out-of-the-box guit tars which are slotted in this fashion. Most are done after the new owner takes delivery, for reasons other than pin lauching.

 

I used to have difficulty with one of the pins launching itself while installing new strings. It was caused by improper installation.

 

Pin Theory.

 

Pins do not keep the string from pulling out the hole. ??? That's right. The pin keeps the ball end from rolling into the otherwise open hole. Properly installed, the ball should be firmly against the bottom of the sound board (top). Start with the high e to test this theory. Installed, the string should move easily up and down in the pin's groove. Excessive force is not required to keep it there as a properly seated ball will only push against the side of the pin.... not try to pull it out. If a pin is being launched, the string, probably the wound part above the ball, is wedged between in the pin's slot and pin hole with the ball suspended. When you tighten the string, eventually, the wedged string will jump, thereby launching the pin to parts unknown. Sometimes the ball is caught on the end of the pin with similar results. Puting a kink just above the ball will help you fish the ball into the right position. Install the higher strings and you should be able to 'gig' them up and down in their pinned holes. Use a mirror and flashlight to check the underside through the sound hole. The ball end on a folk guit tar has to be firmly seated to properly transmit vibrations to the sound board as well as keep the ball from rattling in the loop of a suspended wire.

 

At the low end, the thicker strings will be tigher unless you open the pin's slot. That's why, to understand the theory, you have to start with the thinner wires, they're more compliant. WHile holding the ball against the bottom of the sound board, push the pin in just far enough to 'stick', and no further. Be careful not to push the ball away from the soundboard.

 

When I installed mediums on my guitar I noticed the low E just wouldn't fit the slot of the pin when the pin was pushed all the way home.. lined up with the others. Actually, you couldn't push it home. No worries, the low E pin is up about a 1/8" higher than the rest. But, the ball is seated and the pin has stayed put these last 10 months. I can also guarantee you I can remove said pin with my index and thumb.

 

If you're launching pins, you need to check your work from underneath.