Cole Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Well i finally pulled the trigger and bought another V3 Vj!!! I have a v1 combo that i have plans for(i'll explain later) a V3 half stack very modded, and now a stock(not for long) V3 combo. Right now i've got my modded V3 head running into the speaker of the new combo and the matchin 1x12 cab. I really like this sound. My plans for the V1 combo is... to take everything off of the faceplate of the chasis and if i can find some red tolex to match the head and cab then i will put the tolex on the face of the chasiis and put the chasis in the V3 combo(for the speaker) and have a 1x8 Cab on top of my 1x12 cab and it will all match. So does anyone know where i can get some of the red tolex to match the head and cab? Now for the V3 combo. The head that i modded is very sloppy as i rushed through it cuz it was the only amp i had at the time so w/ the new one i'm gonna take my time and make it really good. My plans are to change R6 and R7 to 100k. I'm gonna add a tweed tone like my head has and the 3 switches it has (R6 on/off, C3 on/off, and C4 1/5 uf) I am also gonna add a gain control on the new one that the old one lacks. Hopefully this one turns out great!! so does anyone know where to get the tolex? Also if anyone has other mods that are good.. I'll listen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cGil Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Three amps are definitely more fun than one. Or even two! For that new Jr, with it's 5.2k OT, I'd suggest something along the line of Marshally or Voxy mods. Hammond OT's are great for Fendery mods, but that extra beefy bottom has to be dealt with when the gain goes up. However, your list of switches will take care of that nicely, so the only thing I can really recommend is swapping the switch used for C3 to a center off type and adding NFB to it. That's 3 different amps on one switch! I usually add the C4 caps to the free side of that switch with C4=5uF when C3 is "in", and C4=1uF at all other positions. That could free up one of your switches for other duties like switching parallel R8 & R9, or pentode/triode mode, for instance. Gil... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m-theory Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Congrats on the happy day! Few joys match the joy of new amp day! Unless you can find someone who's got some leftover red tolex, you're going to have to buy a whole yard. Mojotone, among many other suppliers, should have it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cole Posted November 23, 2008 Author Share Posted November 23, 2008 I found some tolex that matches at vibroworld.com. Thanks for the ideas. I Can't wait to start working on it. I'll probly get the parts for christmas then work on it over christmas break. hopefully SEwatt starts working before then so i can figure out what i need and how to do the mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cole Posted November 23, 2008 Author Share Posted November 23, 2008 Oh Yeah, cgil what does swithcing parallel R8 and R9 do? is it difficult? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cGil Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Well, a 1.5k in R9 is clean sounding, but a 750R (or whatever close) in R9 sounds like it has a crunchy edge to it, kinda like what you might get from a cathode follower stage in a big amp. So a 1.5k switched in parallel with the hardwired 1.5k will give you both tone options. It's easy. Just attach the extra resistor to the cathode, and run the other end to a switch, and from there to ground. Nuttin' to it. Same game with the 1.5k in R8, except that one will sound a good bit more rude and nasty as it gets closer to 750R. 680R is really nasty sounding. Try it! You might like to do the nasty sometimes. And instead of switching a jumper across R6, try leaving that at 100k and hardwiring a 1M in R7. Then add switched 100K in parallel with the 1M R7 to jump between clean and crunchy tones. If you switch only the grounded ends of these parallel resistor mods, they can be safely switched via a footswitch through a jack on the back panel, saving those front panel toggle switches for yet even more mods. You wouldn't want to do this with R6, because your primary signal would suffer too much noise and signal loss just getting to the footswitch and back. But when your signal is just dumped to ground like with R7, R8, and R9, no problemo! Gil... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eracer_Team Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Gil with the 1.5k soldered in and then switching 1.5k on the r8/r9 in parallel does this get rid of the nasty pop sound like we get when switching r8/r9 totally over to a different value. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cGil Posted November 23, 2008 Share Posted November 23, 2008 Nah. It still pops a little but it's not too objectionably nasty. I can imagine that the momentary loss of ANY resistor on cathode would be pretty loud when the switch makes contact again. Most of this simple switched stuff does make some noise, so for live use I'd just set the amp for the guitar (and/or song or gig) and let the usual FX pedals take it the rest of the way for the chorus or solos or whatever. If you're hard pressed to get your switching duties done as noise free as possible, it'll probably take an optoswitcher relay like this one. http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/item.asp?pid=570930&pg=44991&id=5352105 Gil... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.