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Selling an Epi LP Studio. Need pricing advice

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I need to sell a fully customized Epiphone Les Paul Studio Goth guitar with hardshell Epiphone LP case. Actually I just bought it new this September. But I really need some cash now. Would you guys put on some suggestions on how I could price it?

 

I have thrown a set of Seymour Duncan SH2 Jazz & SH4 JB. As wiring, I changed everything, from pots, caps and switch, to jack and knobs. The best part is that I have it with four Alpha push/pull pots wired for coil-splitting both pickups as well as series/parallel and out-of-phase control. In addition, I changed the nut with Graph Tech TUSQ nut, and the stock ABR style bridge with Nashville style one (stock bridge causes the B string vibrate badly).

 

Another aspect I want to point out is that I have had it completely set up, with tiring fingerboard and fret works. Supper low action w/o buzz. I even did buffing to neck and body finish. There are few unnoticeable scratches on headstock (due to changing strings to Ernie Ball regular) and on pickguard.

 

I guess along with the set of Seymour Duncan humbuckers and the hardshell case alone, I could ask for more than $400. Maybe around $450? Any suggestion would be appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance.

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This is just my opinion, but a modification to a guitar does not necessarily bump it's price up by the cost of the modifications that have been made. Mods can be quite a personal thing, so not necessarily to everyone's taste.

An old colleague of mine once had an old cheap car (worth about £500) that he spent £3500 modifying, with a tuned engine, leather interior, racing wheels, suspension etc. He tried to sell the car for £4000 because of the mods. He was dissapointed when he eventually sold the car for less than half that.. at the end of the day, £3500 of mods added to a £500 car do not a £4000 car make.

 

Have a look for a similar (unmodded) guitar on ebay, that will at least give you a good starting reference point. Some of the mods will be desireable to some players, so you can justifiably increase the standard price by a little.

 

I'm not very good on prices in the US market, so I couldn't say a price, but what you're asking ($450US) sounds like a good price in the UK market. I believe guitars are a little more expensive here though.

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Gonna try to be kind here, but the truth be told that guitar new now is $299, ok used it's worth about 60%...so say 180 bucks. Case new was about $70? again about 60% now used 42 bucks. Your mods were worth what you paid because they were what you wanted...doesn't mean that is what the next guy will want, but do the same on those, about 60% and don't add labor, time or trouble in as it was your choice to do this. 180 + 42 = 222 then add what? about 100 for the mods @ 60%? $322? ask 400 but be ready to take closer to 300.

Capt

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I use Ebay when trying to determine a faair going price. Do an advanced search as to what the model has sold for recently and use that to set your price.

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I have to disagree here.

First off, devaluing the instrument 40% off, just because it's used doesn't add up.

The dealer often doesn't make that much profit to start with.

 

I can't say anything about the 500.00 car not being worth 4K after fix up.. but I can tell you there's a darn good market in this, as is evidenced

custom shops all over the place, as well as used car dealers. Depends entirely on the car.

 

You can devalue the instrument, definately, for being used. But that too depends on it's condition. There's no set amount, otherwise

dealers in used instruments, collectible or not, would not have terms like mint, very fine, etc.

 

You cannot expect to break even on the mods. There's no doubt about this.

You do have to find someone who wants the mods you've done. That's neither impossible, or improbable, given the quality of the parts you mentioned.

 

The pickups you talk about are two of the most popular Duncan makes, as well as their being a very popular combination.

Caps pots and switches are common mods with epiphone owners, who also have to pay a non dealer price for these things.

 

So the first thing for you to assess is did you get a good deal to start with.

Second, you want to NOT go nuts or be scared to ask what the guitar is worth.

Let's face it, if you got a good deal on the pups--meaning you paid what nearly everyone else paid for them, and they are, as we all

know in here, excellent choices.. and in pretty much new condition..knocking off 40% would be stupid of you.

 

The same holds true for the whole guitar.. wherever you've modded it, it will depend entirely on what you paid and what others would have to pay to duplicate that mod.

 

Another thing to consider is how you advertise this guitar.. and where you can cut the price for the buyer.

You can throw in the nut, for example, but you'd better mention the cost of new nut, plus installation.. as MOST people wont be doing this themselves.. they'd pay to have it done.

 

And that counts. You know how many guys ask total newbie questions in here every week? LOTS!

And that means that when it comes to doing all these changes, no matter the opinions of those who do them often, they aren't easy

for many people.

That has value, my friend. Or nobody doing mods for guitarists would be charging anything, let alone some of the inflated costs you see.

 

Round it out.. don't take much off the pups for example.. but toss in the nut and installation..

Cut your pot switch and cap costs down..

and the same for any parts you paid for, and work you had done, but not by any 40%.

that would be crazy.

Nobody can get brand new duncans at 40% off..

 

You have a nice guitar, and it's worth what you did to it.

I don't know why so many epi owners and players are so negative about this. It simply doesn't jibe with my own experience at all.

 

For example, I bought an lp100.. and took the pups out of my lp studio and put them in.

Did a little fret work, put in a nut and sold it for the same price as a new lp100.

I tossed in some sprague caps. big whoop.. .75 cents each.

 

Then I sold the original pups for 20.00.

 

Be smart.. don't give up.. use your head here.. a used bridge that's in perfect condition and pretty new at that by what you've told us, shouldn't be 40% less good than a new one! Not at all!

 

Add up your costs. part by part. Be reasonable. Think about what you would have paid for that guitar if it had been done and was listed as used before you paid for it as a new one and went through all the trouble and expense of building it up.

Then ask what you think would be a reasonable price.

 

Ebay it for ten days. maybe you'll have to run it twice. But there are customers out there, who aren't as jaded as these guys in here.

Tell you what, for so called epi lovers, many in here are as down on these guitars as anyone could be.

 

I have an epiphone studio, myself.

guitar, epi case, locking tuners, bigsby bridge, new nut, fret work, new pots new caps, sheilding, straplocks, new pickups, ..

these things altogether would run about 740.00.

I wont get 740.00 out of it, but I could make a modest profit if I sold it since I did all the work myself, and happen to get dealer price on parts, being one.

 

You will take a bit of a hit, but not 40% across the board, unless you just toss in the towel and forget what's out there competing with yours.

And, frankly, not many goth studios have been that well treated.

 

 

If you check ebay used lp studio goths.. you find that some are being sold quite high with no mods.. condition has a lot to do with that.

You have an advantage here.. yours will clearly blow any stock goth lp out of the water.

People are aware of that.

 

TWANG

Captain.. hate to argue with ya, but that's how I see it.

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Well Twang...tell you what! LOL No a problem at all, unlike some on here I don't mind someone not agreeing with me:-$ He did say was going to ask between 400 and 450 for it...I did add it up and then told him to ask 400 but to expect closer to 300...and that was just a guess-ta-mation on my part. I am hoping you are right (which is more likely anyway) I know I love my LP Studio and I wouldn't take what I paid new for it...but then I am not needing to put it up for sale.

So no hard feelings on my part my friend.

Capt

ps... how are you liking that roller bridge now you have been playing it? Really thinking about changing mine ( the WildKat) to one.

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Thanks a lot TWANG and Captmidnight! You guys have given me at least both sides of the story.

 

I mostly agree with TWANG here. I think upgrades and efforts put on the guitar should have some credits here. I treat my guitars as dear friends. I mean, I did nut, bridge, fret work, electronics and other stuff to all of them. My theory is that I won't ask for a price as it is new, but I won't go down that much either. I don't need to sell a guitar that I put on lots of efforts to someone who don't appreciate it at all. Not like some stupid SONY compact stereo that I owned but barely used and then sold below half the price I paid.

 

I did use Alpha pots, Switchcraft jack, and Orange Drop caps. I believe they all are good stuff.

 

An additional question for TWANG though. When you say Ebay it for ten days, you mean BuyItNow, not some $0.99 auction, correct? Do you think it would be a good idea that I put on auction with a reserve price and BuyItNow price as well?

 

I have sold stock pups of this one on Ebay for $20 too. I also sold stock pups from my Epi LP Std for slightly more than $20 each 8-[ And I will use your advice and put stock bridges for sale.

 

PS: I have seen a LP Goth on Ebay used for sale at $285 with an ugly giant sticker on...

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You either put a reserve on it, or you start the auction at what you feel you must have. it's the same thing.. just saying to people, I'm not letting this go for less than this much.

Buy it now is ok, too. It says, give me what I'd like to make and it's yours without competition.

 

I feel like the two have to be pretty close.. you can't cut yourself on the low end, but you can't ask fortune. so if one has to go, let it be buy it now.

 

market varys.. don't let any one check of the ebay prices decide for you.. decide by what the worth or value you put on it is.

 

Capt. M. I just think he should be harder core and try rather than give up to what may even be usual.. Your outlook isn't far off, but to me it's more in keeping with what music stores would like you to think.. then they put your guitar up on the wall for a lot more and wait.

He can wait a bit.. at least he can wait a bit before he loses instead of just tossing it in.

 

I haven't had any probs with the bridge at all.. It is a little close, on an lp, so the strings nearly touch the edge before hitting the saddles..

That would be no problem at all on your wildkat.

The only thing that 'might' be trouble is the bridge position in relation to the bridge saddle travel.

rollers moved all the way up or back can't get as close to the edge.. that is, being round, they don't butt right up against the furthest point of travel a regular saddle could achieve.

And we know epis may be off a bit from guitar to guitar as far as the positioning. type of bridge.. people will reverse their saddles for some strings. etc.

So, take a look at yours.. and see if any of your saddles are adjusted for maximum travel.

the lp had the stock skinny bridge. so far less travel than the roller.. still I have my high e almost all the way forward.. so the center point of thte travel isn't really the same center as the stock bridge.

This is really nit picking.. mine intonates fine.. but I can imagine a bridge on an epi being a bit off from guitar to guitar, so I wanted to mention that.

If you are interested for sure sometime.. let me know and I'll measure my scale exactly.. and show you pics so that you know the bushing distance and can figure out if it's cool.

I'd bet it's fine. But hey.. I've been wrong before, too!

 

tWANG

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