String breaker extraordinaire

[SomeIdiotDreamer]

This is the second string I've broken in three days. I'm a string-breaking machine. And both times I was just tuning up and wound it too high? I don't get it. Can I do anything to protect against this?

 

If I'm doing something wrong, I'd like to know please.

 

Going back to GC tommorrow, it looks like...

[captmidnight]

Try using a little pencil lead in the nut SID and the saddles as well...I always just sharpen a # 2 pencil really well and be careful not to break the lead off in the groove and run it in all the notches (nut and saddles)

You maybe tuning an octive higher ...start with the low E 1st then work your way back and forth. I find it works better with a tuner to go low E then high E then A then D , B then G...then go back and recheck each string...always tune up to pitch. If you go to high bring it down and then back up.

Hope that helps.

Capt

[layboomo]

My guess is you have a nick in the saddle that's causing the strings to break.

[danielaraujo]

Assuming the problem is at the saddles, you might try sanding out any tiny edges and corners your bridge saddles might have. Start with some mild sandpaper and go up to 1200 grit.

 

BTW I could never figure out why my shorter scale guitars (gibbos and epis) break way more strings than my fender copies, which have larger scales and require greater string tension...

[TWANG]

the angle your strings break over the saddles is increased if the tailpiece is low..

and lay put his finger on it..

the TOMatic saddles can be slightly imperfect, not quite rounded on the tail side, or a small metal burr in the notch, and

then the strings will tend to break right there.

 

So get a good look at that notch on whichever string breaks.

 

I'm assuming you're breaking the same string each time.

 

If it's a different string each time.. get a tuner, cause you could be going to high.

 

TWANG

[RenegadeMaster]

To be honest I used to do this with the little E ALL THE TIME when first starting, I just got used

to tuning to properly, One thing I used to do when I first got my acoustic which was different

from my first guitar (a Strat with has 6 pegs one side while the acoustic had 3 pegs on each side)

so I used to use the wrong tuner and break the little E! Terrible :-

[aphawki]

I am guessing you have already been down this road...but it's a funny story either way. When I first started I had no idea what so ever about tuning anything! All I learned was normal tuning was supposed to be EADGBe.....well the problem with that is I decided to tune it one day...well I decided for some reason that I would tune it backwards like eBGDAE...this is all great until you start strumming after you tune a sting to ensure it was right....well I found that when I got to the higher strings I actually had to tune them above where there should have been...and like clockwork "plink"! I did it 2 times in a row. :-

 

I know that didn't really help with your answer...but I just wanted to give you something to laugh about on your way to GC.

[mrjones200x]

When i first started to tune up my guitars i use to go past the e note and would see it say g on the tuner so would keep going till i got to e! 1 octave higher. The string will do it just............ then pop!

 

Did it loads till i learned the sounds of the notes. Can now tune about a step out then finalize with the tuner!

[duane v]

I have one guitar that's a high E string snapper (1971 ET-275)..... But the rest of my guitars do very well.

[Hiberna]

What kind of strings are you using?

[Burstbucker1281734065]

I had a "sharp" saddle on my Gibson and my Wilshire that I had to touch up with a fine file to stop this from happening

[SomeIdiotDreamer]

What kind of strings are you using?

 

 

10 gage. Guy at the store says my string breaking may mean I "need a set-up" which admittedly I haven't had, but I let that same guy talk me into a new (more expensive) tuner that's got me going crazy because 1) I don't know what "calibration" is and it PERSISTS in identifying the strings wrong. It says my high E is an F and no mount of tweeking will convince it otherwise.

 

I was better off with my seven-dollar peice of crap. I wonder if I can return this stupid thing.

[Dennis G]

 

10 gage. Guy at the store says my string breaking may mean I "need a set-up" which admittedly I haven't had' date=' but I let that same guy talk me into a new (more expensive) tuner that's got me going crazy because 1) I don't know what "calibration" is and it PERSISTS in identifying the strings wrong. It says my high E is an F and no mount of tweeking will convince it otherwise.

 

I was better off with my seven-dollar peice of crap. I wonder if I can return this stupid thing.

 

[/quote']

 

Sounds like your tuner isn't calibrated. Not knowing which one you have I'll use mine (Korg CA30) as an example. Somewhere on the screen, you should see a number like 440HZ. If it's anything other than that, press either the up or down arrow where it says calibration until you set it at 440. It will then recognize your strings with the proper pitch. Most chromatic tuners have nice little features on them so before you return it, play around a bit & read the manual. HTH.

[SomeIdiotDreamer]

 

Sounds like your tuner isn't calibrated. Not knowing which one you have I'll use mine (Korg CA30) as an example. Somewhere on the screen' date=' you should see a number like 440HZ. If it's anything other than that, press either the up or down arrow where it says calibration until you set it at 440. It will then recognize your strings with the proper pitch. Most chromatic tuners have nice little features on them so before you return it, play around a bit & read the manual. HTH.[/quote']

 

That's the same kind of Tuner I was just talked into.

 

I have it calibrated at 440 and it says my high E is an F, my B is an E, my G is a D, my D is an F#, my A is an E, and my low E is a C.

 

This is rather annoying.

 

Edit: Frustrating. That's the word for it.

[RobinTheHood]

Here is a handy little online tuner

 

http://www.gieson.com/Library/projects/utilities/tuner/

 

It's good for training your ear. I use it pretty religiously for restringing to get in the ballpark...especially with the high strings. I always think I've gone too far, but usually havent gone far enough.

[Dave]

Sharp saddles are not uncommon. I'd bet the short end after the break was long enough to reach the saddle perfectly. As several said, a little polishing of the offending saddle groove will stop the breaking.

 

The Fenders I've seen have rounded saddle pieces. Gibsons and Epis have sharp cut saddles. One little burr in the plating can cut the heck out of little E's and B's.

 

Dare I say that my Gibson when new did this and required polishing. My Epis did not... I know... it's blasphemy. Still, I love them both.

[SomeIdiotDreamer]

Here is a handy little online tuner

 

http://www.gieson.com/Library/projects/utilities/tuner/

 

It's good for training your ear. I use it pretty religiously for restringing to get in the ballpark...especially with the high strings. I always think I've gone too far' date=' but usually havent gone far enough.[/quote']

 

My tonal ear isn't that good yet, and my new strings sound different from my old ones to boot.

 

This is driving me nuts. I've spent hours just trying to get in tune.

[captmidnight]

Don't get disgusted SID If you bought the guitar locally take it in to them and ask for help. If you got it on line, ask around and find a good guitar tec near you. Being your 1st guitar and just starting out playing...a set up would be well worth the money. Tell them the type music you are interested in and that will help with setting your action up.

It will be a pleasent surprise how much better the guitar will play and feel...take that tuner in as well and ask them to show you how it works.

 

Maybe you shouldn't take it to that guy who talked you into a high priced tuner tho....seems he may have saw a beginner coming and figures he can get as much as he can out of you. OR maybe do take it to him and ask for a refund on the tuner and use that to help pay for a set up. Shouldn't run more than about $50 and well worth it that 1st time. You can get an alright tuner that will get you in the ball park for under 20 bucks, or there abouts.

 

Don't be scared to ask questions either! Remember there is no such thing as a silly question...just silly answers. BTW maybe do a search on YOUTUBE..plenty of videos on there showing you how to tune a guitar.

 

Capt

[generation zero]

I'd be willing to bet the problem isn't with the tuner... You probably just aren't close enough to the right notes. Most of the "more expensive" tuners are chromatic, meaning they will register any pitch, and tell you how close to that note you are. If you have your low E string tuned down to somewhere between B and C, the tuner doesn't know it's supposed to be an E. It just knows that you are closer to B than C, so it will tell you that you are sharp. When you tune it down (even farther away from the right note) to a perfect B, it says you're in tune, even though you're nowhere close. This may be frustrating now, but it won't be when you're in a band later on and the singer says "hey, let's try tuning down to dropped D flat" and you're stuck looking at your 20 dollar "guitar" tuner that can ONLY tune each string in standard tuning... Trust me, your tuner is fine. You just need somebody with experience to show you how to get your guitar close to in tune, so you can get it the rest of the way with the tuner. The more you do it, the more you will come to recognize the "right" notes, and you'll be able to get it much closer by ear. I've been playing for 15 years now, and I'm still not perfect at it, but I can usually get within a half step of perfect tuning just by ear alone. It will come with time, don't get discouraged.

[Steven Lister]

Hey SID. In frustrating times like these you have to just stop. Re-evaluate your problem.

There are many solutions but at this juncture the simplest ones are best.

 

Can you relative tune? If not, learn how – takes only a few minutes to learn and will serve you a lifetime. Check the internet (like here: http://www.compareguitarlessons.com/Relative-Guitar-Tuning-Methods.html ) or any beginner book for instructions. Relative tuning allows you to toss aside your tuners and focus on tuning your guitars strings to be tuned properly relative to each other (regardless of the accuracy of the pitch). It helps train your “ear” as well. For solo practice, any pitch in the ballpark is good enough as long as all 6 strings are tuned to each other. I’ve even played “relative-tuned” on stage with no one the wiser (after breaking strings and without a tuner). And, you can always fall back on this method whenever you are without a (good) tuner. Many players tune down ½ or 1 full step anyway and capo if needed. Tuning down has a side benefit of longer string life. I haven’t broken a string in years.

 

Anyway, try to quickly put yourself back to playing – then fuss over tuning details at a later date.

 

Hit every BLUE NOTE baaaby…, I’m going to play on:-"