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duane v

Drilling tuning peg mounting screw holes???

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I'm changing out tuning pegs, and I was wondering what is the best technique for drilling the mounting screw hole (back of the headstock). I was thinking of installing the tuning key then align it, then drill the little pilot hole using the tuning key mounting hole as the guide.

 

sounds good??

 

I have custom drill stops that will allow me to adjust the depth of the drilled hole, so that I dont drill all the way through the headstock.

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1-"Dry fit" the new tuners first, get them oriented the way you want, and mark the holes with a fine-point Sharpee (or the like).

2-Remove the tuners and compare the location of the new holes to those of the old. (If they touch or overlap, you may have to plug the old holes with some superglue and round toothpick sections. Then, carefully take the excess down with a sharp knife and/or file until it as close to the headstock back as you dare--chances are it will be covered by the new tuners.)

3-Drill the holes using a properly small bit and your stop (or some electrical tape wrapped tightly around the bit as a stop).

4-Reinsert the tuners and secure them in place with the screws.

5-String it up, tune it up, and enjoy.

PS-If you are changing bushing sizes, several vendors (including Stewmac and WD) have adapter bushings.

Cheers

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1-"Dry fit" the new tuners first' date=' get them oriented the way you want, and mark the holes with a fine-point Sharpee (or the like).

2-Remove the tuners and compare the location of the new holes to those of the old. (If they touch or overlap, you may have to plug the old holes with some superglue and round toothpick sections. Then, carefully take the excess down with a sharp knife and/or file until it as close to the headstock back as you dare--chances are it will be covered by the new tuners.)

3-Drill the holes using a properly small bit and your stop (or some electrical tape wrapped tightly around the bit as a stop).

4-Reinsert the tuners and secure them in place with the screws.

5-String it up, tune it up, and enjoy.

PS-If you are changing bushing sizes, several vendors (including Stewmac and WD) have adapter bushings.

Cheers[/quote']

That's how a hack would do it. A REAL guitar tech would use a tapered reamer. :-k

 

 

 

 

(Inside joke, no offense to InsideMan meant, LOL)

 

Seriously, that's pretty much exactly how I would do it. I would probably use the tip of the drill bit by hand to mark the same location, as opposed to a sharpie, because it gives the bit a spot to grab when you put it in the drill. Avoids the bit wanting to "walk", as us cabinetmakers refer to it. Similarly, an awl or a punch would do the same thing, if you can find a punch small enough to fit the tiny holes. Anything with a sharp point to actually make an indentation on the finish for the tip of the bit to sit in. Just make sure you're dead center of the hole in the tuner, otherwise when you start the screw, the tuner will move to adjust to the off center pilot hole. Make sure your bit isn't too big or too small, either. You want it to be at least as big as the shaft of the screw, but not as big in diameter as the threads of the screw. I generally hold the bit behind the screw and look straight at it... if you can see a VERY tiny bit of the bit through the threads of the screw, but the threads still cover the entire bit and then some, you've got a bit that is the right size. If it disappears behind the center shaft of the screw entirely, it's too small, and if it is wider than the threads, obviously the screw will have nothing to grab.

 

Just remeber my woodworking mentor's words of wisdom:

 

"Take your time and don't f**k up, and all the day you'll have good luck!"

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Guest icantbuyafender

just dry mount them and pencil a dot.

 

yeah, good idea using one of those 'stop drill' bits.

 

i am never gonna stop kicking my own hide for this one time i spaced out a drilled a whole straight through my damn headstock.

 

makes for a good laugh tho... and anyway, anyones first beat around 'mod surgery' practice guitar is owner of one or more dumb mistakes

 

lol

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Much as I love a Sharpie I really would be hesitant to use one here. If you dot some bare wood or a thin spot in the finish it can bleed into the wood under the topcoats, speaking from experience here. Many art supply stores will have Stabillos, this looks like a colored pencil and sharpens like one but the marking portion is water based. These are the beans. You can get them in a number of colors to contrast with any workpiece and they wont stain like a oil based china marker can sometimes. An awl or centerpunch is really all you need to mark the location, or maybe just a large needle. Small, sharp, drill-bit in a hand-held pin vise is also a good idea, but leave the tapered reamer to ceritfied, experienced professionals. I think you might have to be a licensed luthier to even purchase one, some have said they have to be registered with your local police department as well. Dangerous toys not to be used without training in the proper handling thereof. You could put your eye out or split hardwood logs with this thing.

 

Wedgie

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Leave the tapered reamer to ceritfied' date=' experienced professionals. I think you might have to be a licensed luthier to even purchase one, some have said they have to be registered with your local police department as well. Dangerous toys not to be used without training in the proper handling thereof. You could put your eye out or split hardwood logs with this thing.

 

Wedgie[/quote']

LOL... Tapered Reamers. Tool of choice for installing straplocks, trimming string excess after a string change, buffing out a scratch in a nitro finish, and making pickguards in your garage. Some models also work well as a tuning fork. Results not typical, your mileage may vary. Do not expose to water, open flames, or children under the age of 32. Side effects can include irritable bowel syndrome, nausea, and in rare cases, temporary lower limb paralysis. Kid tested, mother approved. Yours for only 13 easy payments of $19.95, call now!

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Guest icantbuyafender

why do i not know what a tapered reamer is...

 

its bugging me...

 

it sounds like some sort of 'dropped the soap jail treatment'

 

::shudder::

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LOL... Tapered Reamers. Tool of choice for installing straplocks' date=' trimming string excess after a string change, buffing out a scratch in a nitro finish, and making pickguards in your garage. Some models also work well as a tuning fork. Results not typical, your mileage may vary. Do not expose to water, open flames, or children under the age of 32. Side effects can include irritable bowel syndrome, nausea, and in rare cases, temporary lower limb paralysis. Kid tested, mother approved. Yours for only 13 easy payments of $19.95, call now![/quote']

 

Love it!=D> I'll bet you could make a fortune selling Sham-WoWs. LOL

 

Duane,

The only thing I would add to the above posts is something I have found useful for center marking small screw holes

on polly finishs.

I take a large needle and wrap one end with some masking tape. (don't want to burn my fingers.)

Heat the needle over a flame. Use the point to make my center mark. (Spinning it as I go)

It will completely melt through the polly finish and give you a center mark to help keep your drill bit from "walking".

If the pilot hole is small enough, I don't even bother with a drill. I just spin the bit with my fingers. (once you are

through the polly it doesn't take much to drill into the wood.)

 

Hope this helps, if not, disreguard.

Good luck with your new tuners.

 

Willy

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look close at the tuners before you drill the rear holes..

six in lines are worse.. but get the spacing and the angle from the headstock as close as you can..

you don't want to wind up seeing it, or feeling it when you tune.

 

when I mark the holes for the screw in the back.. I use an old screwdriver I ground to a point.. that way I can center it very much

better than with a sharpie..

doing that means the screw will go right in the center and not have any conflict with angle, or with pulling the tuner off to one side a bit, messing up the alignment with the others.

 

Willys got another way!

I think there's a law against that in the minds of some members.. but I bet it works fine!

 

And he makes a good point. starting even a sharp bit on poly, or even sealer or bare wood, if you're holding a drill, the tip can crawl

a bit, so a little pilot hole is best.

 

When I do pickguard holes I always spin a drill bit as close to exact center to start, too.

 

You CAN use a hand held drill to drill the post holes out.

But any tilt to the bit and you wont get your tuner to fit well.

And any error and you can chip the outside edge.. or even crack the wood if you get really clumsy.

Also, it's best, even with a drill to have the neck really secure.. you don't want that truss rodd vibrating like mad in there from

the drill.

Best way is to secure the neck, wood behind the headstock.. and if you feel vibration, dampen it... get your drill at the best angle you can.

And it can be done.. but I like the drill press and my jigs and clamps.

 

 

You can also use a .38 colt. But you have to have armor piercing bullets and a quick draw mcgraw hat.

 

Seriously. try it!

 

TWANG

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He's not the only gunslinger in town, sodbuster.. I mean generation zero.

TWANG

 

by the way, why isn't there a band called the sodbusters.

I think that's a great name.

what's up with the farmers pretending to be cowboys.. what's wrong with farmers?

 

I'd like to see a 'ZZ' kinda Sodbusters.. tricked out tractors, fancy baseball caps.. couple of those famous 'farmers daughters' dancin around, john deer green drum set, silk bib overalls with tuxedo shirts undereneath, alligator workboots..

 

Shane rode off full of holes... the farmer stayed home and got the girl!

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This is a good thread if you can get past the TAPERED REAMER. :-)

That other one got a little carried away, didn't it?

I like marking with a very sharp awl. It center punches at the same time as it marks.

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