crispo77 Posted February 13, 2009 Posted February 13, 2009 Ive just changed the pickups on my sheraton successfully and have got a switchcraft toggle switch to go in. Ive just tried to change it and it hasnt worked. Ive soldered the 3 little wires onto the 3 tabs but my problem is on the other side. On the original switch there is only 1 tab but on the switchcraft one it has 2 tabs?? Do I solder the bare wire to both or just one? The 1st time I tried both and only one direction of the switch worked. Then I tried one tab and the switch didnt do anything. Help? Also, any advice on pickup height would be greatly appreciated
lostindesert Posted February 13, 2009 Posted February 13, 2009 Gibson Pickup height: neck PU 3/32''(2.4mm) on both E-strings, bridge PU 1/16''(1.6mm) on both E-strings. Measured when depressing the two outer E-strings on the last fret. Bottom string to top of polepiece. These are factory specs. Peter
crispo77 Posted February 13, 2009 Author Posted February 13, 2009 Gibson Pickup height: neck PU 3/32''(2.4mm) on both E-strings' date=' bridge PU 1/16''(1.6mm) on both E-strings.Measured when depressing the two outer E-strings on the last fret. Bottom string to top of polepiece. These are factory specs. Peter[/quote'] Thanks dude =D>/
jcwillow777 Posted February 13, 2009 Posted February 13, 2009 The outside lugs go you each individual pickup, and the center lug(s) goes to the tip of the output jack. The other side is the ground, push both tabs together and solder to both.
TWANG Posted February 13, 2009 Posted February 13, 2009 I do it a bit differently. I run the ground to the switch and then to the output jack. It's a little neater on sheris I think. IOW the ground shown to the sleeve of the jack is gone. instead a ground is run from a pot back to the switch. and then a ground is run to the sleeve of the jack, along with the hot wire from the switch, to the jack. I think it makes the long run to the jack stronger and it's easier to thread through. your mileage may vary.
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