Big Red

[Swoop]

I like that, it's unique. And I don't mind the look of the Dot Studio either, with some pickup covers and what not it doesn't look so bad. Better than the LP studio anyway. LP's really need binding to set them off IMO. I'm thinking of changing the pickguard on my SG to a brown tortoise shell one, and wondered about a mtaching TRC too, but wasn't sure how it would look on the black. The TRC on that dot looks great though. Maybe when I eventually get it done, I'll get the TRC too, if I don't like it I can always switch it back.

 

Anyway, how do you like the GFS mean 90? How Does she sound? I'm keen on a set of those for the SG too.

[jlg]

TWANG -- that is sweet -- the color IS just like the one I picked up!

Where did you get the pickguard? I've been thinking about adding one to mine (I'm thinking making one from some sort of wood), but I don't know the dimensions or where to get the mounting hardware.

 

I'm going to have to try the lemon oil -- mine cleaned up nice but not THAT nice!!

[duane v]

I don't think i've ever seen a satin cherry type 335 before

[TWANG]

GZ that ring does stick out, doesn't it? hmmmmm.

 

Swoop. the mean 90 is staying in. I'm putting a KA p90 in the neck though. it's a warmer pickup than the KA.. and compliments this guitars

tone really well. the KA will add a little brightness at the neck and should balance out very well.

 

jlg I made the guard tr cover switch cover and jack plate.. I build them all the time. (hint hint) (looks at duane.... ducks)

the lemon oil was really a shock. very little and wipe it on with a nice cloth.. do the back first.. and don't let it set. just get another cloth and

wipe it off. It's a little hassle getting around the pups bridge etc.. and you want to get it off pretty nicely or it's greasy. but it's stayed the same look for three days now.. and looks MUCH better than before. use as little as you can.

 

 

duane..I thought it would look pinkish.. but it's a very nice red. esp. after the lemon oil.

I can hardly wait to get it done.

I've made up my mind to really go at this one.. the tone is so shockingly good on it.. so first class fretwork, new controls.. the works.

 

TWANG

[TWANG]

GZ I think I'm gonna make the ring smaller.. and I'll keep shrinking it until it either goes away or looks right.

I may do some shaping on it, too, though. you got me thinking..

I'm gonna go football shape on the output jack cover, too... heh.

 

 

TWANG

[ladyscaglyc]

Twang, great lookin' axe .

Man, you really do some tasteful work.

I agree that switch ring would look great as a "binding width outline".

Did you change any of the electrics, (ie: 500pots, harness...)?

[TWANG]

I haven't had time to do the guts yet. but

it will get another p90 in the neck spot.

and another volume and tone control added.

I'm doing an lp harness for a guy and rewiring a tele build, so I can do mine at the same time.

the holes are big so I can go full size CTS .. don't know what it's got right now.

Spragues. and sheild the pup cavitys, too, even though the chrome covers do ok there.

After that, just a tick of fret work and a high polish.

 

then.. I may put abalone dots on the board.

And then sell it. I'll never get a fair price for the amount of work. but I need an acoustic more than I need this.

too bad, too, it's really nice.

 

 

 

I've gotta get a better pic.. wish it wasn't too cold to take it outside.

Sitting in front of the vj half stack with the pod on top it's quite a combination.

 

TWANG

[InsideMan]

TWANG,

 

Do you have any suggestions/tricks for inlaying a finished guitar? For example, how can you get the correct radius on the fingerboard--especially with larger inlays? How do you get the inlay down and shaped without taking down the fingerboard? Is it just easier to inlay on a "bare" fingerboard and refret? Thanks.

[TWANG]

I'm not sure I follow you exactly.

fret board radius is known when you start.. so your sanding block will conform to that.

 

I'm no expert.. haven't even done but a little of this on a bass.. and not on a board.

I'm going to do dots.. this will be fairly simple especially on a bare board.

I'll just make a little hole and fit the piece in by eyeballing it. *S*

works on bodys so ought to do on the dot.

 

Stewmac has a fretboard radius guage you can print out and copy.. then make your own in something harder.

I've not done big inlays on anything so .. I'm guessing.. but if I were I feel I'd have the space on the board flat..

the bottom of the inlay flat..

radius the inlay material out of the guitar.. fit it to the hole.. and when it's right, glue it in.

 

I'm not going to do any fancy inlays that run the entire board.. there's ten million chinese guys doing that.

 

TWANG

[lpfan]

 

I'm not going to do any fancy inlays that run the entire board.. there's ten million chinese guys doing that.

 

TWANG

 

LOL! Is that the million man army from korea doing the work?

[InsideMan]

TWANG,

 

Thanks. Sorry to hijack your thread, but when you mentioned inlays it struck a chord. I had been thinking of inlaying some squares in a guitar fingerboard.

 

After your reply, it occurs to me that I could radius a piece of scrap lumber with the dimensions of the fingerboard, shape the inlays, then transfer them to the finished fingerboard, given cavities that were routed identically in both.

[TWANG]

I think it would be fairly easy and accurate to radius the inlays.. the stuff I've got is all flat pieces..

abalone.. it's somewhat brittle.. you have to be careful cutting and shaping it or it will chip..

but it reacts nice to paper and polish..

as for the board itself.. save the rosewood dust.. and use it as filler.. if you do that carefully you'll have a solid foundation, no air spots,

and it will lie nice!

 

You'll see on some sloppy inlays a good deal of outline thats's slightly different in color than the board or body.. that's because it finishes

differently,, even sands shinier.. so the edges are the detail point that are hard to get right.

 

TWANG

[generation zero]

I'm not going to do any fancy inlays that run the entire board.. there's ten million chinese guys doing that.

 

TWANG

Hey, my dragon-inlayed LP copy resents that remark, LOL!

 

As for the switch ring, I agree... Smaller would look better. Maybe like 3/8" or so bigger than the washer above it in overall diameter, so your exposed area would be a little more than 1/8" all the way around.

[jo.schumi]

hi twang, this guitar looks really great. i really like the matt finish of the red surface. by the way did you oil the wooden surface. a guy told me that waxing or oiling the surface of a (semi) hollow body would darken the tone; would smooth or damp the tone. what ist your opinion or experience? thanx jo

[TWANG]

It sounded the same to me.

I wiped it off pretty well though.. amazingly, it's still dark.. !

Looks really good.

There's not enough penetration of the surface to really affect the wood, I don't think.

 

Sitting on the stand next to the sheri, I find the studio is louder and darker in acoustic tone.. just brushing the strings.

I was really surprised at how well that acoustic sound translates to the amp... great!

 

Now that I've played them more, I think the sheris faster response wise.. how can I say it..

a sharper attack..

while the studio is mellower it's still not muted or something. just different.

 

Way neat guitars the both of them.

 

TWANG

[DJB08]

The TRC is great!

[TWANG]

hey I like that too.

I've still got to shrink that switch plate.. and change the jack plate. probably should have made it square.. but I'm gonna go with fender style football shape

 

thanks

TWANG

[TWANG]

A couple of pics of the bloodwood guard pup rings set I made.. also has tr cover, knobs and switchplate to match. for another guys guitar.

(not complete in pics...)

 

and updates of the guitar as it is now.

Put it on ebay.. didn't get even one bid.

 

 

 

 

 

TWANG