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Spare Parts come in handy, AND let's learn how to REFINISH A GUITAR?


animalfarm

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First try at refinishing guitar (I suck at it, must learn more, re-do), then slapped

left-over hardware and pickups from previous upgrade. Pick ups from EPI G-400,

added stopbar tailpiece to replace string-thru design.

 

Original Git Dean Vendetta XM, Flat black from factory, picture is wrong:

 

DeanVendettaXMBlack.jpg

 

 

In progress:

 

100_0210.jpg

 

 

Finished product, I will re-do. Learned I need twice as many color coats, twice as many

nitro coats... And a crash course in sanding/buffing out finish!

 

P4070006.jpg

 

P4070008.jpg

 

 

Who knows a good reference book like "guitar refinishing for Dummies"?

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I think it turned out pretty good for your first effort, sorry I'm too late with this info for this project, you can use it on your next project maybe. You prob learnt a lotta this stuff by trial and error on this job.

 

My 2nd job was a car spray painter when I was 15, over 35 years ago (sheesh 'n' shudder).

 

I have the numbers expressed as ranges because of variations like atmospheric conditions, how the spay pattern has been set and the power of the compressor your using with it's regulator settings also. I used to use about 50 psi for base coats and 60-65 psi for finishing coats.

 

1/ Prepare the surface for painting, sanded, marks and dings repaired then properly cleaned.

 

2/ Make sure you sand with 400-600 wet & dry every 3-4 coates using a sanding block on the flat surfaces. You can get sticky wipes from most hardwares, after each sanding blow some air over it while using the wipe to get it clean for the next coat.

 

3/ The best way to paint something is to have fairly thin paint and dust it on (hold spray gun about 14-16" away, this method is called 'dry' spraying or 'base' coats. Each coat dries super quich coz of the thinners and it'll leave a realy smooth surface (less sanding and rubbing). But it won't be shiny, when you've applied enough coats to cover the background, do almost as many again to allow for wear and tear later on.

NOTE: You have to apply a lot more coats this way but it usually works out quicker anyway, less work between coats, dries way faster, you'll get a much better finished job and even though your using more thinners the job will will soak up less of it (when you paint 'wet' the outside skin of the paint dries first trapping a whole lot wet paint behind it, because it has nowhere to go it stays wet for ages and usually the only way it can disperse is actually soaking into the job if it has porous surfaces, soaking the wood in thinners. It's seems counter intuitive, but that's how it works.

 

4/ Now thicken the paint a touch and spray from about 10-12" and slow your passes slightly, this is called painting 'wet' or putting on the 'finishing' coats. If you see a build up of paint speed up, you've slowed down too much (hehehe). Your aiming for a nice glossy finnish but if you load it on too quickly it'll have the texture of an orange peel or worse, running paint. Guess I'm trying to say don't try and do it all in one coat, take it steady, you might need 2-3 finishing coats.

 

5/ Give it plenty of time to dry after each 'wet' coat, when your happy with the result leave it overnight in a dry, warm environment if possible. Finnish off by sanding with 800 then 1200 wet & dry with soapy water (till it's as smooth as a baby's bum), it's a good idea to add a few coats of clear if it's available, it will give a more consitent lustre over time and of course better protection.

 

 

6/ Repeat the sanding procedure in '5/' then use some fine-medium rubbing compound and a cotton lint free cloth, an old singlet is ok as long as it's soft, If the cloth is hard it's usually due too much soap or die, rinse it extra well b4 starting so it's dry when ya' need it. Compound the crap out of it until it's like looking in a mirror, then finally polish it well with an approved polish for that surface (compounding leaves the tiniest scratches and they need smoothing and sealing. For an extra good finish polish it twice about 6 hours apart.

 

Hope this helps you next time 'round..... Cheers

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Rastus - I'm priniting out the brief guidline you put forth. I'm comfortable with

the application of the paint, and clear nitro. it's the sanding between coats (how

often) and the sanding down after the nitro - every few coats, or after all 10+

coats are on and cured? I can sand and sand using various grit wet sandpapers,

and now, once REALLLLLLYYYY smooth, hit it with "swirl remover" ?

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Rastus - I'm priniting out the brief guidline you put forth. I'm comfortable with

the application of the paint' date=' and clear nitro. it's the sanding between coats (how

often) and the sanding down after the nitro - every few coats, or after all 10+

coats are on and cured? I can sand and sand using various grit wet sandpapers,

and now, once REALLLLLLYYYY smooth, hit it with "swirl remover" ?[/quote']

 

* Sanding every 3-4 coats during base coats.

 

* Every coat on finishing, but this doesn't have to be too thorough, just enough to get rid of dust and imperfections and any orange peeling (paint loaded up too much) .

 

* leave each finish coat for an hour or two b4 sanding and recoating. The slower you go at this point will pay of in the finished result, so it's worth it.

 

* The baby's bum treatment after final finish coat and b4 clear.

 

* paint clear.

 

* repeat baby's bum.

 

* compound and polish.

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i am so jealous of you guys. i am years from trying this only do to funding. i can go cheapman on stuff. but, i have no idea what to start with first. so, for an newbie in guitar modding looking into going the next level. what equipment you used animal. ;) and what shoud i strart getting first.

 

I agree, that for a first try, you pics look great. i like the red and gold, very classy!!!!!.

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i am so jealous of you guys. i am years from trying this only do to funding. i can go cheapman on stuff. but' date=' i have no idea what to start with first. so, for an newbie in guitar modding looking into going the next level. what equipment you used animal. ;) and what shoud i strart getting first.

 

I agree, that for a first try, you pics look great. i like the red and gold, very classy!!!!!.

 

[/quote']

 

What level are you at? How are your soldering skills? Have you replaced pickups, pots?

Can you replace tuners without being afraid to drill new holes if mod requires it?

First, you'll need a "sacrificial" beater guitar, preferably with bolt-on neck. I grabbed the

Dean Vendetta XM since it was $99.00 at MF (free shipping), now it's $119.00. Already knew

the string-thru was gonna go, and I liked the "strat-style" design. On ebay you might find a good

bargain, but I just checked and even Dean XMs are going for MORE that MF's prices at this time.

Just watched an ebay bid end for an EPI SG special, winning bid was $59.00, but SHIPPING was

$50.00 (wtf?), so price wasn't exactly exceptional. Look, look, look for that "sacrificial beater"!

 

Then post back with questions regarding replacing parts - I learned over months of researching via internet,

printing out every article I thought would have useful info, asking questions. It's hard to teach

all the basics in one post, so keep coming back and asking questions - you'll see it's not as

hard as it seems IF YOU HAVE GUIDANCE AND KNOWLEDGE!!!!!

 

BTW, I bought all my replacement hardware (except G-400 pups/18.00 +shipping of 10.00 on ebay)

from Guitarfetish. Cheap prices, good merchandise. GFS pickups are good choice, too. Usually come

as 4 - wire, but just solder 2 together (has instructions), then use one leftover as hot, other as ground.

It CAN BE DONE! Maybe we can take out an apprenticeship with TWANG.....

 

Oh, yeah - two days ago I replaced the pups in my EPI LP Studio with Chrome GIBSON 498T/490R pups,

with shipping paid $55.00 a pickup on ebay. New at MF - $110.00 each. Better sustain, more mids, and I

can stand facing my amp and hit a note, and lo and behold, here comes the feedback/sustain I haven't

heard in years since owning a Les Paul or two. It's all a personal choice regarding pups. I wanted

GIBSON pickups, but I am also a big fan of the EPI G-400 pups (HOTCH (G) Bridge/13.8K and 57CH (G)

Neck/8.6K). They sounded great in my Studio, but I still had that slobbering desire for GIBSON.

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What level are you at? How are your soldering skills? Have you replaced pickups' date=' pots?

Can you replace tuners without being afraid to drill new holes if mod requires it?

.[/quote']

 

all the mods on the guitars in my signature where done by me. i have replace pots, pups, bridges, tuners and nuts on some. I will post pics of them soon. the black beauty knock-off i have from davison guitars was a challenge to find the right wire daigram to have a master tone and 3 volume controls.

 

Just recently put a p-rail in a epi lp jr. really nice mod. used push/pulls to avoid drilling new holes. turned out very nice.

 

at this point i am looking at what you have done to the vendetta. i would love to do an antique white or natural finish to a strat style or prs style guitar. researching for potential patience and checking stewmac for ideas on how to do job. Just picked up the third edition of guitarplayer repair guide to help clear some cloudy area's i have on things. really good guide for those insterested.

 

at this point, what should i look at for a patience and where should i shop for paint/nitro coating and so farth.

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Then you're like me, can do hardware mods, just no real experience refinishing.

I can only order Guitar Guide via bookstore here, or ebay one. I'll be disassembling

my vendetta this upcoming week/weekend, and starting from the beginning again.

The internet articles are helpful, just not enough detail.

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guide is guitarplayer repair guide. third edition by dan erlewine. very good so far. advice is very detail from beginner stuff like inspecting a guitar before u buy at store and what tools to bring with you; to as advance as building your own pup. nice pics and a dvd to boot.

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I think you did a bang-up job, looks a lot better than flat black. I was toying with the idea of refinishing the back of my Lester to a slightly darker tinted natural finish, kinda like the Class 5 Quilts Gibson has, which I think are pretty nice looking. Keep the top blue though. I took a peek at the back with a strong light, and it appears to be 2 pieces, the neck is scarfed at the 3rd fret, other than that, those are the only things would be seen with a nat finish. Again, just toying at this point...

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I think you did a bang-up job' date=' looks a lot better than flat black. I was toying with the idea of refinishing the back of my Lester to a slightly darker tinted natural finish, kinda like the Class 5 Quilts Gibson has, which I think are pretty nice looking. Keep the top blue though. I took a peek at the back with a strong light, and it appears to be 2 pieces, the neck is scarfed at the 3rd fret, other than that, those are the only things would be seen with a nat finish. Again, just toying at this point... [/quote']

 

Thanks! I gave up and decided to re-do when I was buffing out with swirl-remover and electric drill/buffing

ball attachment, and #%&!#*&?? if several 1/8" chips of paint didn't just FLY off the guitar on edges of body!!!

At that point I KNEW I had done something totally wrong in one of the previous steps - I could see thru to the

white primer I had put on, also small chip at edge of neck joint. (visible in photo). Hmmmm....'Dis ain't good.

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Hey Farm' date='

 

Have you checked out these guys....not too bad

 

http://home.flash.net/~guitars/index.html[/quote']

 

Finally did get the chance to read article in more detail, good info. That's what I

really need, a good set of instructions to tell me what to expect, what to do, etc.

I can definitely follow recommendations/instructions!!!!

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Have noticed something about the DEAN Vendetta guitar wood. Being Paulownia (really light weight)

body, this guitar just booms out the low end distortion at full pot volume, but will

"clean up a bit" at lower settings. TOTALLY different than my LPs. The body wood

just isn't solid enough/heavy enough to project mids very well. It's just a balls to the

wall METAL sounding guitar, even WITH the G-400 pups in it, which sounded GREAT in

my LP Studio (Solid Mahogany). Still, I'll refinish it again just cuz I want the damn thing to

LOOK "worthy" of the Gold hardware, but I will have a "shingle-shaker" distort-o-matic

special.

Any suggestions to pull more mids, less bass out? Not planning on upgrading beyond what's

in it now, unless it's a cheap suggestion!

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Bump - Info requested. Tone caps probably will not compensate for the

body wood issue. Guess I'm stuck with the sound' date=' eh?[/quote']

 

How about some 1meg pots?

 

Great thread BTW...and great job on the guitar!

I'm planning on refinishing my Kramer this summer, and this thread is going to come in handy.

Never done it before. This will be an experience for sure.

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love this thread. how do i save or do i just search for it when i need it?

 

This one requires experienced input. I have searched for a thread that I KNEW was there, had to

tell computer to show all posts going back 3 months, then do a page=by=page looking for title.

There are other shortcuts, just haven't learned them yet. Sooooo, TELL US HOW!!!!!! Who knows

the secret??????

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(just kidding!) Left-over from yesterday! HOW do you "bookmark"? I've NEVER

had to do this....REALLY!

 

It depends on the browser you are using. If you are on I.E., there should be something in the "favorites" dropdown menus at the top...or even in the bookmark panel to the left.

 

Not too sure about the search function. It kinda blows. If you type in a query and hit the "enter" key on the keyboard it always comes up blank, but if you hit the "search" button on the site it gives you the results. Pretty weird.

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