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I have been looking at a few MIC Casinos of late, with the intention of making a purchase soon. The only immediate mod I foresee is a replacement set of tuners, because the stock "E"-branded ones are crap. I'll probably be inclined to keep the look of the thing, and go with a set of Klusons...

 

Sd9005mn.jpg

 

See: http://www.kluson.com/PRODUCTS.htm

 

Or, failing that, Grovers.

 

One thing I definitely will not be changing are the Epiphone P90s. They're sweet.

 

The electrics are better than I expected. The switch on cheaper Casinos used to be total junk, but that problem seems to have been resolved. If the switch ever does break then I'll just stick a Gibson replacement in there. In fact, as I'm not touching the p'ups, I'm just going to leave the electrics alone until such time as something goes wrong, and I am obliged to work on them...(hopefully never!)

 

A final couple of concerns (but they're not pressing). The trapeze feels a little...flimsy. I think I may replace it with the Allparts trapeze at some point:

 

TP_0410-010-390.jpg

 

See: http://www.allparts.com/store/tailpieces-trapeze-tailpieces-tp-0410-010,Product.asp

 

Lastly, if I ever get tired of a rattle in the bridge, then I'll replace it with a Gotoh. Some people seem to recommend the GEP103B:

 

gep103b_200.png

 

See: http://ssl.bfit.jp/~jby/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=229

 

 

And that's about it.

 

I don't know whether that gets me into "Elitist" territory (and frankly, I'm not bothered). When you think about it, Casinos can generally be found for around $599 at the moment, (I guess Epi's price increase didn't stick with the big retailers in these times...) The only pressing mod (to my mind) involves the tuners. The Klusons cost $60. Even if I do end up doing the tailpiece and bridge mod, that will still only cost $100. So: $599 guitar + $89 case + (at worst) $160 worth of mods vs an Elitist (now up to $1500 at Sweetwater! http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ELCSVSNH/ )

 

I'm not knocking the Elitist at all, I'm sure it's a wonderful guitar. But for the price difference, I'm prepared to give the MIC Casino a go.

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My MIK Casino has been upgraded with:

 

new wiring and CTS pots, Orange Drop caps and quality pickup selector switch

Graphtech string saver saddles

bone nut

Allparts 6" trapeze tailpiece

 

The bone nut made the most improvement tone-wise. Haven't had a problem with a rattling bridge so I still have the original. I've got Gotoh Vintage tuners, but haven't installed them yet. I could change the P90s but the Epis are good; don't really need to for my use. When you buy an Elitist, you get high-quality parts already installed along with better wood and build quality. There were no lefty Elitist Casinos built, so I didn't have to decide between a normal and elitist; I was lucky enough to find a new lefty normal (since production moved to China, no left-handed Casinos have been made).

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I did the following:

 

Bone nut

Grover Tuners

Bigsby

Kent Armstrong Pups

CTS pots & wiring

Switchcraft switch and input

 

The guitar is amazing.

 

 

Just bought a casino wonder what the cost was for all your mods and did you get all your parts from one dealer . Did your pickups fit exactly where the others were without any modifications I'm assuming they are p90s correct .

 

i'm thinking a least changing the tuners , switch & input , pots & wiring , bridge to plastic maybe pickups but the current sound sweet so not certain .

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I don't think the pickups in a stock Epi need changing although the neck pickup in my Peerless Casino seems a lot weaker than the one on my Unsung guitar.

 

I owned 3 at one point. A Cherry Peerless, I plant Burst and I plant Natural.

 

I sold the Cherry after I got the Natural.

 

To be honest the best of the bunch quality wise was the Cherry Peerless. It also had the weakest PUs and had a much more woody tone than my others. My Cherry was signed by Sheryl Crow and acutioned off in Chicago so, if you ever run across a Cherry Peerless with Sherly Crow's sig in gold that one was mine!

 

The burst is the more electric sounding and has a nice fast SG type neck. The Natural falls somewhere between the Cherry and the Burst but has a fat neck.

 

I would agree though the Epiphone P90s are probably the best Epiphone stock PUs. Just do the pots and caps if you want and you should be good.

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Ok. Let's see....

 

Tuners - $65

Nut (done by luthier) - $65 (with a setup)

Pots, switch, jack, wiring - $45 (Done by Twang here)

Kent Armstrong PUPs - $100 (twang)

Bigsby - $110 (Twang)

Black vintage witch-hat tone and Volume knobs - $20

 

So I got the guitar for $500 new from a very well respected ebay dude(Peerless). I put under $400 into it and the guitar is just amazing. Plays like (if not a bit better) than my '67 335. I'm not sh!tting. In fact I probably play the Cassy more because it's more acoustical. It's a fine, fine instrument. The P90s are, for my money, the best PUP out there.

 

I love the thing.

 

Oh yeah, and for shits and giggles I spent 5 bucks on one of those rubber switch grommets just like Mr Lennon had. That, I have to admit, made no difference in the tone.

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excuse me for this question' date=' but I never knew the rationale for changing out pots and caps, any specific reason? I just got my casino and have that "I need to mod something" itch there.. I don't really understand the function of pots and stuff..

[/quote']

 

I have never had the caps done, but some guys here swear by it.

 

Epiphone uses cheaper parts in the guitars like switches and pots. Upgrading to good quality CTS pots will make a tone difference. If doing a Casino you want 250K pots.

 

The guys can correct me here but on the Epiphone HB guitars I think they use 500k pots while Gibson uses 350k.

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I have never had the caps done' date=' but some guys here swear by it.

 

Epiphone uses cheaper parts in the guitars like switches and pots. Upgrading to good quality CTS pots will make a tone difference. If doing a Casino you want 250K pots.

 

The guys can correct me here but on the Epiphone HB guitars I think they use 500k pots while Gibson uses 350k. [/quote']

 

okay, what are the tonal differences involved? also, can the casino cut through the mix with proper pedal employment, or is it mainly a rhytmn based guitar?

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I did the following:

 

Bone nut

Grover Tuners

Bigsby

Kent Armstrong Pups

CTS pots & wiring

Switchcraft switch and input

 

The guitar is amazing.

 

 

Curious what are the electronic value of the caps you had changed and also the pots rated at 250 and any specific kind other that i need to know before I order the pots .

 

What did you use cloth wiring and if so what guage . Any other specifics for the other mods you indicated Im curious as to what I need to get and want to be its the right specs and so on .

 

Please be specific

 

thanks

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Curious what are the electronic value of the caps you had changed and also the pots rated at 250 and any specific kind other that i need to know before I order the pots .

 

What did you use cloth wiring and if so what guage . Any other specifics for the other mods you indicated Im curious as to what I need to get and want to be its the right specs and so on .

 

Please be specific

 

thanks

 

PM Twang here on the forum. He did all the wiring work.

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can the casino cut through the mix with proper pedal employment' date=' or is it mainly a rhytmn based guitar?[/quote']

 

Can't comment on the pots and such. I'll replace them if they break only. Mine's a '96 and still stock. One of my 4 main guitars I play out with.

 

Anyhow hell yes you can cut through the mix...with or without pedals. Then again IMO no such thing as a "only" rhythm guitar, but I know what you mean though.

 

To me it sounds the best with some grit. Actually IMO the Casino sounds good no matter what you throw at it, and very very stage friendly...or it's been my experience anyways.

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okay' date=' what are the tonal differences involved? also, can the casino cut through the mix with proper pedal employment, or is it mainly a rhytmn based guitar?[/quote']

 

In terms of tone it seemed to be clarity in mine. My old pots were scratchy when I turned them. My stock selector switch would also cut in and out the PUs and I had to mess with it to stop the guitar from cutting in and out.

 

I keep my tone pots full and the treble PU on full and roll the neck PU in and out as a tone control. Since the new pots no more scratching and seems more clarity of tone.

 

As far a rhythm or lead what are you trying to do? It is a guitar and does either. If you are trying to play metal through a cranked Marshall stack then it is the wrong guitar for that use. It is going to feedback and is not going to have the cutting tone of any solid body guitar if that is what you are asking.

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and is not going to have the cutting tone of any solid body guitar if that is what you are asking.

 

Oh I don't know about that byrds. The main 4 I use are my '61, Strat, Verythin Standard and Casino. Other than feel and sound they all give me the same cutting edge....makes no difference between the solid or hollow bodies. My Hofner is becoming my favorite to go to, but I think you already know that.

 

Then again I guess it depends how you set up your rig and what you play. Why I didn't mention it not being to good for metal type music.....didn't think anybody would get a hollow body guitar for that(?). Guess I shouldn't take such things for granted...you never know.

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Oh I don't know about that byrds. The main 4 I use are my '61' date=' Strat, Verythin Standard and Casino. Other than feel and sound they all give me the same cutting edge....makes no difference between the solid or hollow bodies. My Hofner is becoming my favorite to go to, but I think you already know that.

 

Then again I guess it depends how you set up your rig and what you play. Why I didn't mention it not being to good for metal type music.....didn't think anybody would get a hollow body guitar for that(?). Guess I shouldn't take such things for granted...you never know.[/quote']

 

 

Hey Raf, How does your Verythin play? I've always been intrigued with them, I primarily play either a Casino or Riviera and the Verythin is similar to Riviera or a Sheraton.

 

 

mgm

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Oh, it's just a great guitar. When I was shopping for a semi I was looking for something different than the usal types I seem to end up getting. I walked into a store and this guitar sitting on a stand just caught my eye. Didn't know much about Hofner guitars, but all it took was very little time trying it out and that was all I needed to know.

 

The mini buckers aren't quite humbucker sounding, or what I'm use to, but very good sounding. Much louder than the '57s on my '61. The controls, both tone and vol., are very responsive. Drop or raise a notch or two on them and you can hear the change immediately. I can roll off the tone and not get muddy or boomy at all. I'm constantly playing with the controls of my guitar, old habit, so I'm very very pleased with how these respond. Amazing the different sounds I can get out of this guitar by just turning a knob just a little.

 

 

Something you might not like is that it has a long scale...25 and 1/2. Not an issue for me but I though that was kind of strange on a semihollow. From cheking at the Hofner site they all seem to be the same. Or at least the MIG are...mine is BTW.

 

I've seen the newer versions of the Verythin sporting full size buckers...only seen pictures though. They also have the Asian version, a CT( Contemporary), which is just as good for a lot less cash. Wish I would have known about them first. Although I belive they didn't come till a while after I got mine. I got a real good deal on mine so no big deal....very happy with it.

 

Anyhow the CT sports full size humbuckeers and I belive they come with a short scale. Byrds has got one so he might be able to give you more on them. I do know he seems to be very happy with his...if he still has it that is.

 

Access to the upper frets are as good as on my SG, reach all the way to the end of the neck if you want with no issues. Unlike my Casino that my hands start to get crunched up around the 17 fret. I normaly don't get that high on the neck FWIW, but some times I will and it's great to be able to when I want to....22 med jumbo frets BTW.

 

Here is a side shot of my Gretsch 5120, Verythin Standard and Casino showing how thin they are..very comfortable too by the way.

 

IMG_0011-1.jpg

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If you are trying to play metal through a cranked Marshall stack then it is the wrong guitar for that use. It is going to feedback and is not going to have the cutting tone of any solid body guitar if that is what you are asking.

 

 

 

 

actually no, i'm just concerned that when I solo the notes will not become discernable above the rhythmn section. And yes haha I don't believe I bought a full hollow to play metal

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Thanks Raf! I didn't realize that they would look that thin beside a Casino...wow! Playability wise it sounds like it plays more like a Riviera ( better fret access wise ) the scale doesn't bother me.. I wonder how much difference sound wise there is between the CT vs the standard, my only experience with Hofners is the 500/1 Beatle bass and I know the CT is a totally different sound compared to one of the re-issues. Thanks man, I really appreciate the info and the pics!

 

 

 

mgm

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