RaSTuS Posted May 18, 2009 Posted May 18, 2009 Giving an old git an overhaul, new PG, GFetish roller saddles and swap knobs etc. The PG I removed was shielded but the replacemrnt isn't. I figured while it's in bits I might as well get a roll of Shielding Tape and remedy that, might line the cavity too while I'm at it. There are two types of tape I've found on eBay, aluminium and copper, which does the best job?
bluesman345 Posted May 18, 2009 Posted May 18, 2009 Giving an old git an overhaul' date=' new PG, GFetish roller saddles and swap knobs etc. The PG I removed was shielded but the replacemrnt isn't. I figured while it's in bits I might as well get a roll of Shielding Tape and remedy that, might line the cavity too while I'm at it. There are two types of tape I've found on eBay, aluminium and copper, which does the best job? [/quote'] Shielding tape? I haven't even heard of shielding tape. :D When shielding the control cavities, I just stuck some aluminum foil on the back of the covers with some double-sided tape :-
RaSTuS Posted May 18, 2009 Author Posted May 18, 2009 Shielding tape? I haven't even heard of shielding tape. :D When shielding the control cavities' date=' I just stuck some aluminum foil on the back of the covers with some double-sided tape :- [/quote'] Here's a link to my search, http://musical-instruments.shop.ebay.com.au/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m38.l1313&_nkw=shielding&_sacat=619
RobinTheHood Posted May 18, 2009 Posted May 18, 2009 IIRC, copper is the better of the two. Dont know the technicalities, but I think I remember reading that a while back.
RaSTuS Posted May 18, 2009 Author Posted May 18, 2009 IIRC' date=' copper is the better of the two. Dont know the technicalities, but I think I remember reading that a while back.[/quote'] That's a shame, it's the most expensive.
Greg M Posted May 18, 2009 Posted May 18, 2009 I always use copper shielding tape because if the area you need to shield requires more than one piece of tape you can solder them together with a drop of solder. You can't just overlap the tape because the glue is non-conductive. You can solder copper but not aluminum. Hope the helps, Greg
Gordy01 Posted May 18, 2009 Posted May 18, 2009 I recently bought a roll of aluminum tape for shielding. I've used it on 3 guitars now, and it works well. You do have to overlap a little more than with copper tape, but if the overlap is big enough, it will conduct through the glue. And, the aluminum is thicker and easier to use. I bought the roll of tape in a local electric supply store/warehouse. 150 ft for 42 Canadian dollars. Made sense for me as I'm doing a lot of guitars. I think that's probably a better price than anything you're going to find online. Phone around in your town. Ask for aluminum tape. Could save you a few dollars. Another option is shielding paint. Easier to use in body cavities. Go to stewmac.com for this.
RaSTuS Posted May 19, 2009 Author Posted May 19, 2009 I bought the roll of tape in a local electric supply store/warehouse.150 ft for 42 Canadian dollars. Made sense for me as I'm doing a lot of guitars. I think that's probably a better price than anything you're going to find online. Phone around in your town. Ask for aluminum tape. Could save you a few dollars. Another option is shielding paint. Easier to use in body cavities. Go to stewmac.com for this. Well I can get 25m (80 feet approx) roll for AUD$20 delivered, that seems a pretty similar price. I use eBay coz' I live in a small rural town (3000-4000), and we only have one hardware store with pretty limited stock, the closest major town is 35-40km up the road and my car is out of registration/licence. Thanx for the info.
InsideMan Posted May 19, 2009 Posted May 19, 2009 The shielding properties of the material depend on its conductivity. In that regard, you could flip a coin--aluminum is an excellent conductor. But copper has the huge advantage of solder-ability. It'll be much easier to tack your ground wire to the shield and to join the shield strips together if you use copper. Cheers.
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