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70's Hondo II Refinish Project


animalfarm

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Edit: Have rcvd a couple of msgs in past week asking about

this project, how did you, what problems, etc. The ORIGINAL

thread was lost in a previous crash, so I'm "reassembling" the

original from bits and pieces. Hope this helps...

 

All done with KRYLON... Pups are from an upgrade to my

Epi Les Paul Classic, Tuners are Chrome Tulips from parts toolbox,

Bridge, Tailpiece, Alpha Pots, Speed Knobs, jack and plate from Guitar Fetish, had

Sprague Orange Drop caps from...?

 

AS RECIEVED:

I used a heat gun to remove about 90% of the original paint, sanded the

remaining paint off, specifically in the curves/cut-out. Once the paint starts

softening, start scraping with the putty knife!!! Too much heat for too long

will cause the GLUE that holds a Ply/Layered git together to soften, and thin

layers will start peeling away and/or crack.

 

100_0220.jpg

100_0221.jpg

 

IN PROGRESS:

 

this1.jpg

this2.jpg

 

This required Wood Putty to re-fill the damaged areas, and as I was moving the

guitar jack to the side of the git PLUS fixing the "wallowed-out" 3-way switch hole,

I applied plenty of putty. After it dried, I re-drilled the 3-way hole (drill press) and

sanded entire guitar by hand with sanding block to level putty and smooth surface

for sanding sealer and priming.

Then sanded back of Neck/Headstock by hand to remove original Black paint, and

prep neck for stain and TUNG OIL finish.

 

100_0235.jpg

hondo1.jpg

 

Original Tuner holes were 8mm, I needed 10mm, so I used drill press to enlarge

tuner holes. Headstock was clamped to prevent movement, and I checked alignment

of drill bit 3 times for each hole prior to drilling out. Holes for original tuner mounting

screws were filled in with cut-off toothpicks and glue, then cut flush and sanded after

drying.

 

100_0233.jpg

 

Neck was pre-treated with Minwax water-based "pre-stain" conditioner, then the raised

grain sanded smooth. Stained with Minwax Vermont Maple stain. After drying, I used

Minwax TUNG OIL and a foam brush to start the Tung Oil finish process - apply even coat,

let dry 24 hours. Apply another coat, let dry. Another coat, let dry... I put 5 coats of

Tung Oil on neck. The great thing about Tung Oil is that the MORE coats you apply, the

SHINIER it gets. Also as smooth as h*ll when it hardens!

The following pics show the neck after a couple of coats, then after all coats...

 

hondo2.jpg

latest1.jpg

 

Time to Prime, used a "stick" with a hook at the far end to hang guitar, attached to

body thru neck screw holes - screw heads were small enough to not interfere with

priming, painting, clear coats - plus, had chrome neck plate to "cover" those spots

if there had been anything weird. Taped off inside pup cavities with BLUE painter's

masking tape, also taped over control cavities on back, used razor blade to cut tape

to exact shape so no paint got inside, stuffed kleenex into holes for bridge and tailpiece

on front.

 

latest2.jpg

 

I used WHITE primer because I wanted the following "Antique White/Ivory" color

coats to "pop" and be as close as possible to what I was trying for. I shot 4 coats

of primer, let dry for a week, light sand with 600 grit, wipe down. Then 4 MORE coats

of primer, same process. Then it's off to Painting, and ultimately Clearcoats and buffing.

Following pic shows (I think) First coat of paint and Chrome tulip tuners installed.

 

100_0248.jpg

100_0418.jpg

 

I'm looking for pics of the painting and sanding, and gloss coats and sanding -

no go. I may have saved 'em on a disc. If so, I'll edit. I CAN describe the process,

though. Shot 4 coats Antique White over 8 hour period, let dry for a week. Then

WET-SANDED entire guitar with 600 grit paper, wiped down and dried multiple times,

then shot 4 MORE coats of Antique White, same way as above.

THIS time I wet-sanded with 600 grit, THEN 1000 Grit to prep for Clear Coat.

 

Shot 3 coats of CLEAR, let dry for a week (notice a trend here?). Wet-sanded with

1000 grit, super wipe-down. Shot 3 MORE coats of Clear, wet-sanded with 1000 AND

1500 grit, super wipe-down. NOW it's time to BUFF!!!!!!

 

100_0472.jpg

 

Yeah, "MEGUIAR's". The stuff you use on cars. Amazingly, works like a champ on

Guitars. I used the round FOAM pads that fit in a drill for the FLAT surfaces, and

HAND-BUFFED the rest. Used the "Ultimate Compound" FIRST just to get a good

shine on the guitar, and there WERE some "swirl marks". So, I hit it with the "Swirl X"

swirl remover, all gone. Polished up with GHS guitar polish, and reassembled.

Pics show the results of the polishing compounds... I had to "touch up" the little

chip at the edge of the neck pocket with a super thin paint brush and Antique White

paint. Bummer. Can't even see it now.

 

100_0272.jpg

100_0273.jpg

 

 

FINISHED PRODUCT:

Taped off fretboard, then polished the frets with #0000 steel wool, lemon-oiled

fretboard.

 

100_0337.jpg

 

100_0338.jpg

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Oh, yeah - next projects...

1. 2006 HALO INVERT: fix finish problems, upgrade electronics.

2. 2008 DEAN VENDETTA: Go from Satin finish to Full Gloss,

install all GOLD hardware and pups (GFS). Add Stopbar tailpiece.

Thanks MichaelE for inspiration!

 

HALO

 

100_0318.jpg

 

 

DEAN(s)

 

Copyof100_0316.jpg

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Well.....Since we've lost mucho info' date=' and I just finished this

forever to cure out project TODAY, a quick overview.

All done with KRYLON... Pups are from an upgrade to my

Epi Les Paul Classic, Tuners are Grover Tulps from same Epi upgrade... [/quote']

 

 

I gotta get reading glasses..when I first read your title it read "70s Honda" Refinish Project.

smiley-computer004.gif

 

 

 

Nice Krylon spray job you did there! It's smooth and glossy and looks professional.

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dude' date=' awesome. I scored a les paul standard plus top in blue burst on ebay. Has a crack in heal of neck. It will be my first crack :- at repairing. I will post pic when i get it. I will need lots of advice. [/quote']

 

I know EXACTLY which guitar you're talking about, I WAS WATCHING IT, TOO!!!!

I decided to back off - too many other projects pending that need parts ($$$$$).

 

Seeing the pix on ebay, my first thought was to gently try to spread crack

(boy, this is headed for the gutter...) to see if opening would be large enough

to work/push/feed copious amounts of wood glue inside, then CLAMP, leave for

week or more (of course wipe off excess glue as it oozes out...).

 

That's very generic, body would have to be clamped down, neck moved to open crack

while carefully listening for bad noises like more C-R-A-C-K!!!! make opening just big enough

to push glue in with thin plastic strip. Probably take a while.

 

Our Luthier members may provide more sage advice....

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Oh' date=' yeah - next projects...

1. 2006 HALO INVERT: fix finish problems, upgrade electronics.

2. 2008 DEAN VENDETTA: Go from Satin finish to Full Gloss,

install all GOLD hardware and pups (GFS). Add Stopbar tailpiece.

Thanks MichaelE for inspiration!

 

HALO

 

[img']http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt26/Animalfarm1984/100_0318.jpg[/img]

 

 

DEAN(s)

 

Copyof100_0316.jpg

 

Please post pics on the dean project from start to finish with as much detail as possible. I would like to put a gloss finish on my faded SG400 but I don't have the balls to do it, my wife has them in her pocket. LOL! Just kidding, I've never messed with finishes before so I want as much help as I can get.

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Please post pics on the dean project from start to finish with as much detail as possible. I would like to put a gloss finish on my faded SG400 but I don't have the balls to do it' date=' my wife has them in her pocket. LOL! Just kidding, I've never messed with finishes before so I want as much help as I can get.[/quote']

 

Carverman, Tgifntx - Thanks! Discovered a way to shoot "dramatic light" pix!!!!

 

No Problem. I test-buffed a section of one Dean with Meguires Ultimate Rubbing compound,

the beginings of a shine was there, but so was the "bumpy/orange-peel" look. So, I expect

to do a bit of wet-sanding. Hopefully without going thru the original Stain and satin coat,

then I'll test-buff again. If results aren't satisfactory, I'll spray my own gloss coats (many),

then wet-sand and buff out to Gloss finish. Of course, I have to deal with stain/seal/gloss

of the mahogany dowels I'll be installing in the "former" string-thru holes after I drill out and glue

the dowels. . . I'll take pix, make commentary. Perhaps others can assist with any questions, too.

 

PICTURE OF FIRST EVER REFINISH PROJECT... ( I've learned a bit since then, but I want to

do it again!!! The "satin" gold will be replaced by SHINY gold this time...).

 

100_0217.jpg

 

100_0219.jpg

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CAN'T WAIT TO GET IT AND SEE HOW THE CRACK IS DOING!!!!!. i will start a thread to get help on repair options. keep usposted on your projexts. I am learning alot.

 

The "CRACK THREAD?" Hee-hee! Hopefully will generate input from various

watchers/members. Maybe we'll learn a bit!

1. "...can barely see "the crack".

2. "...how do I clamp "my crack"?

3. "...should I pull "my crack" togther with screw'?

....etc, etc, etc!!!

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Unreal... I showed a co-worker a pic of 1st Dean refinish (cherry red),

he's seen me working on other gits over last couple of months, I haven't

even started on next cherry red, he says "I want to buy it when it's done".

Good for me? Puts the pressure on to produce quality product!

 

But, but, but maybe I want to keep it.... Hmmm. $$$ or flash?

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  • 9 months later...

Good to see this thread back! I actually used what I learned here when I refinned my LP Jr. My only problem is that it has been several months and my clear coat never fully hardened. Its dry and all, but I can put scratches in it with the lightest touch...even after buffing. I cant remember the brand of paint & clear I used, but it was automotive. Jr. is still sitting around in pieces.

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Good to see this thread back! I actually used what I learned here

when I refinned my LP Jr. My only problem is that it has been several months and my

clear coat never fully hardened. Its dry and all' date=' but I can put scratches in it with the

lightest touch...even after buffing. I cant remember the brand of paint & clear I used, but

it was automotive. [b']Jr. is still sitting around in pieces[/b].

 

[confused] [confused] [confused] Holy BAT-SHAT, Batman!

I let mine sit for 6 weeks before re-assembly due to same problem.

I used Krylon (Acrylic), you used Automotive (?) - I knew the MULTIPLE

coats of stuff I had put on would take a while to quit "gassing out"/cure.

Wow, I wish you could remember which brand, gotta stay away from it.

 

Now you've got me doing more research -

Acrylic Cure Time,

Polyurethane-based Spray paints,

Compatability of 'crylic and Poly paints/finishes...

 

EPI uses poly for Clearcoating. Sure would like to find out HOW

they paint their guitars... Research, unless it's considered "proprietary"

info.

 

On the KRYLON website, there is a section dedicated to Guitars finished

with KRYLON, so it CAN be used:

 

http://www.krylon.com/expert-advice/you-did-it/guitar-hero/index.jsp

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I still have the paint with a little left over.

I'll take a look and let you know what brand and type it is when

I get home tonight.

 

Thanks!!! BTW' date=' I put your EPI Tele/Strat Spec guide in the

Epi Lounge "Do-it-Yourself" thread for PERMANENT reference with

FULL CREDIT to YOU. Hope you don't mind.....

[confused [confused] [confused]

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Thanks!!! BTW' date=' I put your EPI Tele/Strat Spec guide in the

Epi Lounge "Do-it-Yourself" thread for PERMANENT reference with

FULL CREDIT to YOU. Hope you don't mind.....

[confused [confused] [confused]

 

Not a bit! Thanks for the props. I'm just glad people are using it it for a reference. Its at almost 1700 hits since its launch and I'm getting traffic from around the world. Its gradually getting linked in other forums from people finding it and also with a little help from Peter. Thanks Peter! And depending on your search criteria, it ranks anywhere from page 1-5 on google. Not too shabby!

 

So, the paint & clear I used was Dupli-Color - Truck, Van & SUV acrylic laquer. I used acrylic laquer because I found people suggesting it for guitar refin on other sites. I'm wondering if that is my main problem. Should probably have went with a poly. But really, if is scratches this easily on my guitar, how is it supposed to hold up on a vehicle?

 

Any suggestions on how to get this stuff to cure properly? Or maybe do another top coat with something else?

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