New Epiphone Valve Jr. not working

[Epiphone Guy]

Hey all, this is my first post so I hope this is in the right forum.

 

Anyways, I JUST got home from Guitar Center with an Epiphone Valve Jr. and the 112 extension cabinet. It's my first tube amp so needless to say I was pretty excited. I hooked it up, plugged in my guitar, and nothing...can't get any sound out of it whatsoever.

 

I checked my guitar cable with another amp so I know that's not the issue. I also made sure the volume on the guitar wasn't completely dialed down. I have a brand new speaker cable running out of the head into the 16 ohm port on the cab and of course the power is on.

 

I would've just called back Guitar Center but they were closing as I was leaving so my question is what else can I check on the amp to possibly get it working tonight?

 

Thanks

[TWANG]

It's the fuse holder again I bet.

This is SO common.

 

getting the back panel off is kinda hard. some guys try to fast and tear the tolex..

so.. if you have a putty knife. you know a wide thin flat blade..

for prying..

 

remove all the screws from the back panel.

pull at it with your fingers and see if, as often happens, the glue is sticking it in place.

 

if so. use the putty knife.. carefully and pry gently around the seam between the panel and the cabinet..

there will be a weak spot that starts to come up..

go back to fingertips and try pulling there

keep doing that..not prying so hard you tear the cabinet tolex..

 

until it comes out.

It's just that they slop the glue in a bit and it makes the panel hard to get out the first time or two.

 

After the panel is out.. you'll see three wires with white tubes.

those are fuse holders.

they are all the same.

they all hold the same size and value fuse.

There may be only one.

 

however many there are. here's the deal.

 

inside the white holders is a fuse.

you twist the holder and it comes apart.

 

inside the holder are two metal contact points.

one in each end.

 

you need to scratch them with something metal like a file end.

so that there is bare metal showing on each..

that way.. the fuse can make contact.

 

right now.. there's enough oxidation on them so that the current can't pass through.

yeah.. it's stupid! but it happens again and again.

 

I got two epi vjs for 85.00 because MF thought they were broken!

scratch the metal inside there. put the fuse back in.

leave the panel off.

fire it up.

betcha it works!

 

put the panel back on.

have a good play!

TWANG

ps

I also scratch the end of the fuse a bit.. like a bunch of X's... just take your time and don't force anything except that silly stuck panel!

[Larens]

Hey all' date=' this is my first post so I hope this is in the right forum.

 

Anyways, I JUST got home from Guitar Center with an Epiphone Valve Jr. and the 112 extension cabinet. It's my first tube amp so needless to say I was pretty excited. I hooked it up, plugged in my guitar, and nothing...can't get any sound out of it whatsoever.

 

I checked my guitar cable with another amp so I know that's not the issue. I also made sure the volume on the guitar wasn't completely dialed down. I have a brand new speaker cable running out of the head into the 16 ohm port on the cab and of course the power is on.

 

I would've just called back Guitar Center but they were closing as I was leaving so my question is what else can I check on the amp to possibly get it working tonight?

 

Thanks

 

[/quote']

 

I wouldn't do anything and especially not something some guy in an on line forum told you you to do. I'd take it back to GuiTarget Center and either got one that worked without any monkeying around or I'd get my money back. You didn't buy some amp project, you bought an amp with a reasonable expectation of performance which thus far you have not received. Taking the advice you've been given may or may not solve your problem but it will in all probability void your warranty.

 

Larens

[TWANG]

Some guy on the internet has had at least twelve vjs in his house. and modified everyone of them.

Some guy on the internet has been in this forum for about three years, and a couple of others, talking about valve juniors.

Some guy on the internet guarantees that changing a fuse never voided a warranty on anything. They're there to be replaced.

That's why they have fuses. So they can blow and the amp will be ok. And you can replace them cheap and easy, except in this case Epi gets the panel glue slopped on, and uses a cheap fuse holder.

 

I always switch my amps fuse holders out to rear panel mounted holders so you don't have to mess with taking the panel off.

 

I understand your hesitation to take advice on the internet. But that's what this forum is for. Learning about amps.

 

I recommend he changes this fuse out and examines that holder.

For a couple of reasons. No. 1 it's common complaint and I'm probably right. No. 2. everyone should learn how to change a fuse in their amp.

They blow. They blow in unexpected places. They blow when amps are new, when they are old, when you're at home, when you're away.

Having to run to a store to replace every fuse that blows would be pretty inconvenient.

 

Hang around this forum and you'll meet lots of 'some guy on the internet' many of whom know more about amps than you or I will probably ever know.

And you'll be glad to meet them.

 

Welcome. Stick around!

 

When the vjs first came out, many of them had no more problem than the fuse holder not connecting.

MF had them as returns and sold as is.

84.00 is what I paid for my first two, each.

In both cases the fuse holder was all that was wrong.

 

Since then, I've heard this same problem asked year after year, and solved year after year. It's very typical.

If it didn't happen now, it might very well happen sooner or later. The metal they use to make those contacts is cheap.

 

TWANG

[Larens]

I can't imagine that a check of the fuse is the reason to lose the warranty

 

or you get the price down like Twang did

 

Peter

 

and welcome here' date=' Epiphone Guy

[/quote']

 

So...you think that it's a good idea that a first time tube amp owner open the amp up (while not prying at the back panel too hard as not to rip the tolex LOL) and start poking around? Know what can happen when you short out filter capacitors and you're the ground? and why should they have to? The OP bought a new amp and shouldn't be required to try to fix it on their first night of ownership...and I'll bet somewhere in the warranty there's a bit about repairs by " non-authorized service people"...and last I checked there wasn't anything Twang was authorized or certified to do or that he had any special psychic powers to diagnose electronic problems without actual inspection (and even then well...???). The problem could be a bad tube, faulty rectifier circuit, faulty OT, faulty speaker lead, faulty any number of things and that does include fuse holders but this shouldn't need to be done by he purchaser upon its arrival home. The smart money says "Take it back". Not everyone needs to find a way to get the price down and are able to buy something that works from the beginning.

 

 

Larens

[RSDx]

Welcome to the forum, Epiphone Guy!!! Fuseholder needing "cleaned" is my initial guess as well. I scored a brand new (with warranty) VJ head'n'cab for $149, and that indeed was all it needed to work perfectly. I figured at that price, even it it needed more work, I'd either A) rely on the warranty, or rely on some folks here (and over at the sewatt forum) to get it straightened out. Took all of a couple minutes to rectify (not counting the several minutes spent gently wrestling the back off the bugger, as TWANG spoke of). This allows me to get into modding my old combo, without risking not having a decent amp to use if I screw up .... which I'm sure I will...heh. Since it sounds as though you paid full price @ a local GC, I'd take it back and demand another one, and verify it works correctly before leaving the store. Checking the fuse would not void your warranty (shouldn't, anyways....), but as mentioned, you'd wanna be careful not to tear the tolex....... I personally would try the fix first, but....my official online advice is take it back - they owe you an amp that works from the get go!!!

[Larens]

I was a first time tubeamp owner some months ago' date=' and I opened the back panel of my HD combo to change

the tubes, I called my seller and there was no problem with the warranty at all.:-

 

I never would do any modifyings, 'cause I don't have a glue how to do it. But before I drive 100 km to my dealer,

I would check the fuseholder of my amp if it's needed or suggested by knowledgeable (to me) people

It seems to me that this is often a Problem with the VJ's, so I would try it myself. But that's just me.

 

You are absolutely right, that shouldn't happen at all - and if it's a short way to the dealer - ok, I would bring it back probably.

 

BTW I don't know Twang personally, but I would give him my amp to repair without any bad conscience,

but that's just me.

 

Peter[/quote']

 

I've owned tube amps since 1966 and have made many minor repairs and mods on amps over the years but I'd never suggest that someone get their first practice working on one the first night they owned their amp. I've also watched Twang in action for over twelve years and I personally wouldn't let me try to fix my toaster. The warranty problem wouldn't necessarily arise from the repair of the fuse holder but from all the other "ooops" that happen along the way which will in deed negate the warranty and to say nothing of the inherent DANGER of poking around fatal voltages. I hope it is something as simple as has been suggested but allow professionals to make that determination after hands-on inspection, not some wanna be on a forum. The OP is entitled to a functional amp not requiring repair before its first use.

 

Larens

[RSDx]

:- [confused]

[cGil]

Greetings all Someguys! :-

 

The nice thing about web forums is all the peer review. Thankfully, there are plenty of someguys that are willing to share their experiences of what they know to work. From the replies, it should be pretty easy to sort out what's up.

 

If you need to know anything, know this. Tubes (and fuses) are as fragile as light bulbs. Tubes will wear out if they don't simply burn out at the most inopportune times. No one says you need to be educated and qualified to perform major open amp surgery; but if you own a tube amp, you should be willing to swap tubes occasionally. After all, simple general maintenance of equipment is the owner's responsibility. Someone not willing to check a mere fuse is not worthy of their amp, be it tube or solid state. If you are one of those, I do hope you are rich enough to afford to pay someguy to maintain it for you.

 

Gil...

[Larens]

Greetings all Someguys!

 

The nice thing about web forums is all the peer review. Thankfully' date=' there are plenty of someguys that are willing to share their experiences of what they know to work. From the replies, it should be pretty easy to sort out what's up.

 

If you need to know anything, know this. Tubes (and fuses) are as fragile as light bulbs. Tubes will wear out if they don't simply burn out at the most inopportune times. No one says you need to be educated and qualified to perform major open amp surgery; but if you own a tube amp, you should be willing to swap tubes occasionally. After all, simple general maintenance of equipment is the owner's responsibility. Someone not willing to check a mere fuse is not worthy of their amp, be it tube or solid state. If you are one of those, I do hope you are rich enough to afford to pay someguy to maintain it for you.

 

Gil...[/quote']

Don't you think there's a bit of difference between swapping tubes and running a power section diagnostic? By the way, you are one of the ones in this forum that I hold a great deal of respect for your knowledge and if you feel it's safe and within the scope of a complete novice's ability to pull out and pull apart wires then I concede to you but I still hold to it that a brand new amp shouldn't require repair before being used.

 

 

Larens

[cGil]

I wouldn't let "me" fix my toaster, either. But from what I've seen from Twang over the last few years around here, I do know that if he ever got hold of it, he'd slug it out till he got it working. Twang is one of the most doggedly determined builders around these parts cuz he keeps on trying long after others give up. He's earned his stripes the hard way and is due some respect for that in my book. Don't diss the Twangster!

 

Gil...

[Larens]

I wouldn't let "me" fix my toaster' date=' either. But from what I've seen from Twang over the last few years around here, I do know that if he ever got hold of it, he'd slug it out till he got it working. Twang is one of the most doggedly determined builders around these parts cuz he keeps on trying long after others give up. He's earned his stripes the hard way and is due some respect for that in my book. Don't diss the Twangster!

 

Gil...[/quote']

Unfortunately I've known the Twangster since about 1996....He always leaves them laughing, I'll give him that much. I don't have much faith in someone who "slugs it out" I much prefer someone with a knowledge base and the ability to attack a problem analytically from that knowledge base. Hence why I don't usually take my repairs to "Gerry Rig Inc."

 

Larens

[brianh]

if so. use the putty knife.. carefully and pry gently around the seam between the panel and the cabinet..

there will be a weak spot that starts to come up..

go back to fingertips and try pulling there

OK' date=' I got the amp apart and am poking around in there with a putty knife. Nothing yet...hmmmm... what if I touch these two contacts?

 

Nope.

 

How about these two....

 

 

Yeowwwouch!

 

I feel faint....

 

Call an ambulance.....call 911......call someguy on the Internets

 

It's getting dark in here....I'm cold....

 

Goodbye cruel world....

 

I hope my warranty's still good....

[cGil]

If I brought a new amp back to a store cuz it was DOA, I would certainly expect them to ask me if I had bothered to check the fuse or swap the tubes! Since it's brand spankin' new, I would certainly demand a replacement tube and/or fuse or whatever. But would you honestly expect a new amp just because a tube went south on you? I mean, come on! I get DOA JJ's fresh outta the box all the time! They're tubes! It happens!

 

Gil...

[RSDx]

I get DOA JJ's fresh outta the box all the time! They're tubes! It happens!

 

Gil...

This is true, although my DOAs have been Sovteks...... but, yeah, **it happens

[Larens]

If I brought a new amp back to a store cuz it was DOA' date=' I would certainly expect them to ask me if I had bothered to check the fuse or swap the tubes! Since it's brand spankin' new, I would certainly demand a replacement tube and/or fuse or whatever. But would you honestly expect a new amp just because a tube went south on you? I mean, come on! I get DOA JJ's fresh outta the box all the time! They're tubes! It happens!

 

Gil...[/quote']

On the first day of ownership? Absofrekinlutely! I wouldn't be leaving the shop until I was satisfied that I had bought a fully functioning amp. If like Twang you want to rummage around the rubbish bins for a deal then you take your chances but a new, in the box amp should function like a new, in the box amp. Now, if I bought an amp and there were issues around the fuses my first thought would be why? Not that the Chinese kid didn't clean the contacts of the fuse holder or that their supplier sent them some wonkey fuse harnesses. Why on earth would YOU be expected to check out the fuses and tubes? If it doesn't work, here it is back and try again if you'd like. That actually happened to me a few year back with a Marshall JCM 601 combo. I fired it up hit a chord and the fuse would blow...right back it went. Turns out the speaker lead was shorting out and it was a simple repair...but not one for me to have to diagnose and repair.

 

Larens

[cGil]

I don't think a store should be required to replace an amp based simply on one blown tube or fuse. If it blows 'em regularly, that's another issue, but that hasn't been established by one lone incident. If I was a tube-newb and had a brand new DOA amp and no spare tubes or fuses, I'd definitely take it back. I'd want them to instruct me on how to swap fuses and tubes, and I'd pick up the spares that I would now know would definitely be needed in the future.

 

However, as to the question of "why" I should, as a tube amp owner, be expected to check fuses and swap tubes? Pretty much for the same reason I shouldn't expect a new guitar every time a string breaks! Most of us aren't filthy rich, and can't afford roadies to help us lift up our poor little fingers to pick our poor little noses for us! On the other hand, there are obviously plenty of rich folks keeping the scratch and dent section full of bargains, and I do appreciate your efforts here at keeping those bargain bins overflowing with goodies.

 

Gil...

[Larens]

I don't think a store should be required to replace an amp based simply on one blown tube or fuse. If it blows 'em regularly' date=' that's another issue, but that hasn't been established by one lone incident. If I was a tube-newb and had a brand new DOA amp and no spare tubes or fuses, I'd definitely take it back. I'd want them to instruct me on how to swap fuses and tubes, and I'd pick up the spares that I would now know would definitely be needed in the future.

 

However, as to the question of "why" I should, as a tube amp owner, be expected to check fuses and swap tubes? Pretty much for the same reason I shouldn't expect a new guitar every time a string breaks! Most of us aren't filthy rich, and can't afford roadies to help us lift up our poor little fingers to pick our poor little noses for us! On the other hand, there are obviously plenty of rich folks keeping the scratch and dent section full of bargains, and I do appreciate your efforts here at keeping those bargain bins overflowing with goodies.

 

Gil...

 

 

I'm not suggesting that in every instance that the amp be replaced. But I believe that it is incumbent upon the shop to either make the simple repair or if necessary replace the unit and within a very immediate time frame. Of course if you take it back to GuitTarget Center and try to explain any problem there's a great likelihood you're going to get a blank stare or "my manager isn't here right now" but the string analogy is a bit simplistic. As far as scratch and dents, I'm the first there. That wasn't my point. What I'm saying is the OP didn't buy a scratch and dent so they're entitled to an A stock unit. The closest thing I ever had to a roadie was a 6'7" tall biker named Otto who liked our band and would work for beer. Don't get me wrong...I'm all about the bargain but if I'm paying full price I'm expecting that it's a first rate piece of equipment.

 

Larens

[peeper]

This is all well and good, but the sad part about this whole mess is Epiphone just doesn't care enough to fix a well known and documented issue with their product. It would cost pennies to fix each unit in the future before they left the manufacturer, but that would eat into already bloated profits. But I guess as long as people buy a sub-par product from them, they will keep making a sub-par product to sell to the public.

I was under-impressed with those amps anyways, before I learned of all the issues they have. I wanted one badly, until I plugged it in and it sounded like cardboard. Even my acoustic only playing singer songwriter girlfriend said it sounded like a toy amp, and if I bought it she would make fun of me and cut me off for a week. Maybe modded all to hell and back they are good, who knows? I wasn't about to plink down my hard earned cash for something that felt (physically) and sounded so cheap.

So all you valvers out there. How much did you spend upgrading your Epi amps before they sounded halfway decent? Couldn't you buy a better amp for less coin?

[RSDx]

So all you valvers out there. How much did you spend upgrading your Epi amps before they sounded halfway decent?

$30 ..... but not really an amp upgrade - the Danelectro Fish and Chips eq pedal .... 7 bands eq plus a volume slider - brings a LOT outta the VJ .... especially through the 1x12 cab. Definitely brings new dimensions to a so-called "one trick pony" amp !!!

 

Couldn't you buy a better amp for less coin?

I dunno .... can you ??? I got my head and cab for $149 new in box from an Epi dealer, only needed said fuse-holder contact cleaning...good to go !!!

[cGil]

I'm all about the bargain but if I'm paying full price I'm expecting that it's a first rate piece of equipment.

 

Larens

 

Ha! I don't know anyone that considers the bargain basement priced VJr to be anything but a first rate piece of junk when compared to the higher priced stuff that sounds better! But you're right. It oughta at least work.

 

Tubes and speakers are not covered under the 5 year warranty' date=' but they are covered for 90 days. It's up to Epiphone whether to repair or replace the amp during that time. Most stores give you 3 days to change your mind and get your money back. 30 days of sympathy from the store after that would not be unexpected. But between the 30-90 day warranty period I would expect the usual blow off and referral to a factory service center if the store doesn't have a tech available.

 

But I got my first tube amp in the mid 60's, so I'm sorta conditioned to tube death being an unavoidable fact of life with tube amps. Don't even hold funerals for 'em anymore! Fact is, I admit I've never even considered the warranty on the tube when it comes to VJrs. I've had plenty of VJr's power tubes blow within the first month. Some within the first week or two. But I've also got buckets of old pulls to use, so what do I care if another Sovtek hits the dirt? It's only the DOA JJ's and expensive NOS tubes that p's me off these days.

 

As far as how cheep can you get away with turning a v3 VJr into a killer sounding amp that doesn't chew through power tubes? I'd guesstimate maybe $10 bucks worth of parts and shipping if you know how to shop.

 

Lessee

 

R10 1.2k/5w wirewound ceramic $0.75 (turretboards.com)

R12 4.7k/3w metal oxide $0.85 (turretboards.com)

R14 250ohm/3w - 5w metal oxide or ww ceramic $0.75 (turretboards.com)

R6, R7 100k/1w carbon film 2 @ $0.15 (turretboards.com)

R4 100k/0.5w carbon comp $0.35 (turretboards.com)

C1, C2 .01uF Mallory 150 or Orange Drop. 2 @ $1.01 (turretboards.com)

C3, C4 2.2 or 4.7uF/25v 2 @ $1.19 at Rat Shack

 

Gil...

[Larens]

Ha! I don't know anyone that considers the bargain basement priced VJr to be anything but a first rate piece of junk when compared to the higher priced stuff that sounds better! But you're right. It oughta at least work.

 

Tubes and speakers are not covered under the 5 year warranty' date=' but they are covered for 90 days. It's up to Epiphone whether to repair or replace the amp during that time. Most stores give you 3 days to change your mind and get your money back. 30 days of sympathy from the store after that would not be unexpected. But between the 30-90 day warranty period I would expect the usual blow off and referral to a factory service center if the store doesn't have a tech available.

 

But I got my first tube amp in the mid 60's, so I'm sorta conditioned to tube death being an unavoidable fact of life with tube amps. Don't even hold funerals for 'em anymore! Fact is, I admit I've never even considered the warranty on the tube when it comes to VJrs. I've had plenty of VJr's power tubes blow within the first month. Some within the first week or two. But I've also got buckets of old pulls to use, so what do I care if another Sovtek hits the dirt? It's only the DOA JJ's and expensive NOS tubes that p's me off these days.

 

As far as how cheep can you get away with turning a v3 VJr into a killer sounding amp that doesn't chew through power tubes? I'd guesstimate maybe $10 bucks worth of parts and shipping if you know how to shop.

 

Lessee

 

R10 1.2k/5w wirewound ceramic $0.75 (turretboards.com)

R12 4.7k/3w metal oxide $0.85 (turretboards.com)

R14 250ohm/3w - 5w metal oxide or ww ceramic $0.75 (turretboards.com)

R6, R7 100k/1w carbon film 2 @ $0.15 (turretboards.com)

R4 100k/0.5w carbon comp $0.35 (turretboards.com)

C1, C2 .01uF Mallory 150 or Orange Drop. 2 @ $1.01 (turretboards.com)

C3, C4 2.2 or 4.7uF/25v 2 @ $1.19 at Rat Shack

 

Gil...

 

At the risk of sounding blasphemous considering where I am, since the mid 90s I've picked up about a dozen Fender Champs (and Vibro Champs) that resulted in four usable amps. I considered these to be my bargain basement projects since I never paid more than $100 for any of them and got a few of them for around $40. All point to point with the circuit complexity of a flashlight. Now that's all changed and these puppies go for over $250 but I actually only know enough about electronics to be a danger to myself... though I have managed to Frankenstein a few usable amps from the various parts. Tubes are terminal and that's one of those realities like death and taxes. I've never owned a VJ jr or any other Epiphone amp and run from PCB-based amps of any kind. I'm sure they make a great mod platform for cheap but the OP wasn't looking for a project. He was looking for a usable amp from jump.

 

Larens

[brianh]

The way I see it, VJrs, Blackhearts and other low end amps are to us what Dodge SRT-4 (aka Neon) are to the tuner crowd. By the time they invest in engine and tranny upgrades, exhaust, seats, sound system, tinted glass, ground effects and custom paint job, they could've bought a brand new Infinity G37. But they don't/can't spend $40k upfront, it's more practical to spend $20k up front and spend $500 a month on aftermarket parts for a few years and have something to drive and tinker with in the meantime.

[RSDx]

The way I see it' date=' VJrs, Blackhearts and other low end amps are to us what Dodge SRT-4 (aka Neon) are to the tuner crowd. By the time they invest in engine and tranny upgrades, exhaust, seats, sound system, tinted glass, ground effects and custom paint job, they could've bought a brand new Infinity G37. But they don't/can't spend $40k upfront, it's more practical to spend $20k up front and spend $500 a month on aftermarket parts for a few years and have something to drive and tinker with in the meantime.[/quote'] Same with mountainbikes, on a much smaller scale....... quality bicycle parts, built to last, ain't cheap !!!

[Eracer_Team]

I've picked up about a dozen Fender Champs (and Vibro Champs) that resulted in four usable amps. I considered these to be my bargain basement projects since I never paid more than $100 for any of them and got a few of them for around $40. All point to point with the circuit complexity of a flashlight. Now that's all changed and these puppies go for over $250 I'm sure they make a great mod platform for cheap but the OP wasn't looking for a project. He was looking for a usable amp from jump.

 

 

 

Hmm well sound's like the Fenders from $40-100 were projects to start with which gave you 4 unsable amp's; that's why the people dumped them in the first place..

 

The Valve Jr. from the box usually works except for that blasted varnish on the fuse holder that needs to be cleaned from time to time.

But the amp out of the box is useable' date=' no project.. only when you tire of the muddy sound...

 

Don't know where you're see $250 for a VJ... Still $129 for head @ MF

 

and $150 for the combo

 

Head is only "more" expensive if you don't already have a speaker.

 

 

 

Now

 

So all you valvers out there. How much did you spend upgrading your Epi amps before they sounded halfway decent? Couldn't you buy a better amp for less coin?

 

And Gil answered that quite clearly.. with a parts list that came to just over $7 without shipping or local taxes.